2TR-FE Performance Thread

I’d double check with them, but I bet they are going to be needed separately. They’re worth the extra money though. Probably not much more expensive than a set of new toyota head bolts

 

Anything else to do while im in there. Already got a Valve cover gasket. Mines been leaking.

 

Spark plug tube gaskets since they’re known to leak and they are separate from the valve cover gasket.

Are you planning on pulling the head or installing the studs with the head on? I’ve done it both ways and its definitely easier to have the head off while you’re chasing the threads, but that also involves pulling the timing cover off.. You’ll need an M11x1.25 thread clean out/chaser tool to get the block ready to accept the studs either way

 

Idk yet, still in the planning phase. Ive never done any deep engine work but i consider myself pretty capable so not too worried lol. I want to make it as reliable as i can since i travel 7+ hours away sometimes in the truck. So i probably will go the route of taking head off if its better.

 

Yeah you’re plenty capable of knocking it out yourself. There are a list of o-rings and sealants needed for the head gasket job/timing cover removal on page 1. If the timing cover is off you’ll be able to inspect all your timing chain guides and see how they look. I’d say they should be replaced if near 200k miles to be on the safe side. If going this route, definitely stick with OEM on the guides & tensioners

You could also consider doing a balance shaft delete (LCE makes a kit), but definitely read the instructions as it is a little involved leaving the motor in the truck. These are a known weak link on our motors though since they turn twice the RPM of the crankshaft

 

Truck clock says 135k probably closer to 150k since i have 35's on truck. What boost gauges your running?

 

Probably fine to leave the guides alone at that mileage. I’m running AEM gauges on my truck but im not thrilled with the quality.. if i was to do it over again id go with something like this from speedhut

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ricks-and-mods.518932/page-2581#post-30458916

 

Been look at this...


https://bankspower.com/products/banks-idash-pro-data-pro-digital-datalogger

 

That looks like a nice option for a boost guage. Not sure if it can read AFR (air/fuel ratio) so you might need one of those too. An AFR gauge is important so you can make sure fuel ratios are safe under high load

 

says it can display

https://bankspower.com/pages/idash-glossary

 

Is that using OBDII data though? Ideally, you should have a separate AFR sensor and bung in your exhaust that feeds the gauge instead of the factory sensor.

 

https://bankspower.com/products/wideband-o2-afr-module-66564

 

Cool, that’s definitely a good option since it has that separate sensor. Im interested in seeing how you like it if you go this route. There’s a lot of different stuff you can display. Are you thinking of going with an a-pillar mount, or something like the Lotek that mounts in front of the steering wheel?

 

idk yet. Still trying to piece a budget together lol. Trying to sell one of my motorcycles so i can get started. I think id rather have in front of the steering wheel but we will see how everything would fit up. I called and spoke with Gabe at S and P speed innovations and he was very helpful. They said if i call them once i get everything installed they can remote to my laptop and tune the truck for me. I feel like that is big lol/

 

That will help get you started much more easily. The haltech is pretty easy to use also if you want to make adjustments later on. I adjusted my idle up to about 1000rpm to help with the AC performance during the summer. You can make it do whatever you please, the adjustability is awesome

 

Yea looking forward to the project. Cant wait to get some boost on the ole girl lol. She needs it.

 

Just an FYI Do NOT leave any shavings in the engine like others have done here before!
Would you agree @BassAckwards ⁉️

Oh, sorry to say the head studs do not come with the supercharger but you can ask for the good guy deal being your dropping some coin with them. The more you purchase I’m guessing the better deal you might get…

 

Clearly you want to clean up everything, but there were no shavings left from chasing the threads in my case Randy

This was from the main bearing that failed which was damaged when you had a shitty tune and probably filled it up with 87 w/ the supercharger. You’ve openly admitted to doing in this thread a few posts back. If you’re gonna post my own picture at least know what you’re talking about

Detonation is hard on engine internals @hayrider2.0 - wouldn’t you agree now?

 

What are the head studs dimensions? There’s a longer stud available for the V6 and V8 engines, it threads deeper into the block and bottoms out, might work well if there is room for it.

 

Y

I never ran 87 in the PERFECTLY good engine I sold you WITH 27K original miles for $1,000.00 less than someone else offered me for it! I put 87 in my 05 w/ 157k miles But I guess you can’t read too…
Plus the engine was still full of oil with MORE than a 1000 miles on the oil when you picked it up and there was ABSOLUTELY NO PIECES OF GLITTER IN THE OIL WHEN YOU DRAINED IT‼️ YOU LEFT SHARDS IN THE ENGINE WHEN YOU COMPLETELY DISASSEMBLED THE ENGINE And CHASED THE TREADS LESS THE CRANK AND PISTONS!! SHARP PIECES OF METAL DONT COME OFF BEARINGS‼️ PLUS THE BEARINGS HAD ABSOLUTELY NO WEAR WHATSOEVER‼️ WHAT A F*CKING ASS YOU ARE.
Plus I told you a long time ago I buy the engine back but you know YOU FUCKED UP, RIGHT⁉️
I can copy and post are messages here for all to see along with all the other pictures you posted.
You ass don’t make me out to be the bad guy. So either apologize or FUCK OFF.