2TR rebuild

Well, it looks like I wasn't wrong with my e-diagnosis in regards to the bent rod. I wouldn't be too concerned about the balance shaft until you complete your tear-down and inspect the bearing and shaft journal. It might just be bluing from when it was hardened during manufacturing. Have fun!

 

Found a running 3rz local for $750. Thinking about picking that up and trying to swap it in

 

Does anyone know how different the block of the 3rz is from the 2tr? Could a 3rz header be used on a 2tr, or internals, or other parts like that. Obviously heads are different. Thinking about rebuilding it with forged rods and Pistons and getting a turbo manifold for a 3rz if it will fit the 2tr.

 

Main difference between the two is vvti, I personally believe the 2trfe is better than the 3rz when comparing it to some friends who have the 3rz. I believe the block is the same. Why not just mic the 2tr block and see if it's out of round... if its not you might be able the just hone it, and throw in some new rods and pistons. You could have the rods shot peened for some added strength for little cost. Unfortunately there is little to no aftermarket support for the 4cyl when it comes to valve train etc.

 

You could also delete the bs shaft and have the rotating assembly balanced since it's already out of the truck

 

Balance shaft delete is a must right now considering that's what's seized. It also needs a new rod so I was going to put 4 new rods in and I might as well get some that will take a little boost while its apart. I am interested to see if the 3rz turbo manifold will work in the 2tr

 

Considering most companies offer a 2tr kit and a separate 3rz kit I'd imagine they are different otherwise they would offer just the one option

 

Well of course the kit will be different I just wonder if the maniflod is the same

 

I'm stuck between rebuilding it myself, paying someone to rebuild it and getting a 5 year unlimited mile warranty, and buying a used 60k mile engine from a 2012 and have no more down time waiting for it to be rebuilt.

 

The balance shafts do nothing more than smooth out the reciprocating mass, 4 cylinder engines have two pistons up at the same time and at one point they are all half way up they are buzzy by nature, the cranks are well balanced the shafts just make them a bit smother. If you look at the design they run both horizontal and vertical off set to counter the forces of an inline 4 cylinder. My question is why did the shaft seize? Water would have nothing to do with it unless they broke when the engine came to an abrupt halt or a connection rod hit it. Second you just can’t just remove them because you will lose oil pressure something has to lube them they turn all the time. Leave the chains off maybe.

 

Good points. So firstly one thing I've been told that hot engine plus cold water doesn't alway turn out that great. Also could have just been the a strange coincidence that it stalled in the water and that's when it siezed. It looks like it's been spinning the bearings. Secondly if they are seized I don't think the can be removed so yes, the plan is to just cut the chain.

 

Thermal shock is a possibility.

 

I'm really thinking about doing a 3rz swap and then building the 3rz down the road. Aftermarket for the 3rz is so much better then the 2tr

 

Don't know it would have to get cold very fast think about what happens when you pour cold water into a hot pan it takes a lot of energy to heat and a good bit to cool it off. There has to be a reason that the shaft seezed it is not a working part it does not drive any thing it just spins. So using the thermal cool down ideal the cam shafts would be the ones to take it on the chin or a piston seezing in the bore. Bearing failure? What ever the case it just can't be disregarded if the bearing spun there is a reason and it will leak pressurized oil and there is metal in the oil passage ways and the block is damaged. Not knowing what caused it will present it's self some where in the future it would be a shame to go through a rebuild just to have it happen again.

 

Finally found a shop that said they would rebuild it. Complete rebuild and 1 year unlimited mile warranty for ~$2000. He said proximatly 2 week turn around. Still trying to find a few more prices but this is going to be the closest shop to my house and it's a small shop, guy did engines for 30 year in New Orleans before moving here to retire. Well he didnt get to retire because people heard he built engines. And I am all for supporting the little guy. So this is probably my number one option right now.

 

I would worry more about why did the piston rod bend than I would about the balance shaft.

The balance shaft seizing didn't cause the piston rod to bend. That looks more like the results of a hydrolock than a spun bearing.

 

Finally got it back and threw the oil pan on. Hopefully I will have it in and running this evening.

 

That is absolutely insane that it only bent like that!

 

I'm very thankful it didn't break. What's amazing is the lack of wear on the engine after 200k miles. It looked almost brand knew inside.

 

He was a very lucky man that day, as far as how bad it could have been if the rod had broken...