2TR rebuild

You aren't lying. Good fortune in a bad deal.

 

Just read through the thread...out of curiosity, I remember earlier you mentioned that you weren't entirely convinced that it seized because of the water crossing, were you able to determine that for sure one way or the other? From what you described about the crossing (1 foot deep going 25mph) that doesn't sound too crazy, was it just shitty luck and water got into the wrong place and the wrong time? Or something else?

I'm looking to hit up one of the local OHV parks out here soon that is famous for it's water area, and even though I'm notoriously careful with my truck I don't want to get hit with any surprises...

Glad you got your engine back and that the damage wasn't any worse!

 

Yes it was from the water but I couldn't say for sure with out taking it apart and finding the bent rod. I thought it could the timing chain or something like that.

In other news it is spewing coolant from the thermostat and I had to dig through the "extra parts" box to find the gasket. Installed it with the gasket. Same problem. Also can't get the fuel pump to kick on so it won't even fire

 

Still no luck with the thermostat leak or the fuel pump.

I should mention that one of the relays makes this loud buzzing noise when the key is on and if you swap the relay for a new one then the new one will make the same noise. Something is wrong with that particular slot. I can't find the diagram of the relays to figure out what that particular relay does but I have a feeling it has to do with the fuel pump.

 

Just logically thinking about it (and since you eliminated the relay itself), the buzzing might be due to a short on the low amp side of the relay. Might be getting proper initial voltage, but when load is applied, the voltage diminishes due to a short and relay opens back up, cycle repeats. Hopefully as simple as a loose wire or connector.

I dont know why you'd be having the thermostat issue. Only thing I can think of is warpage of the block or thermostat cap, but that's pretty unlikely. Did you use a brand new gasket, or the old one?

Please keep in mind I dont have a fraction of the experience of most contributors in this thread, hopefully they can chime in with some more helpful info.

 

Post a picture or video of where it is leaking please.

 

Good info about the relay. I'm not very inclinded on the electrical stuff. I will have to look on that. Used a brand new gasket that came with the rebuild kit. With try to post a picture/video in a second

 

Video won't upload. Here is before I added coolant and then after. You can kind of see it coming out by that bottom right nut

 

You want me to come up after work tomorrow and see what we can do?

 

You are welcome to if you want to. Not much going on. Just trying to find the source of this buzzing noise. Thinking it's the fuel pump itself is shot. The relay in question is labeled EFI.

 

Ok, I'll let you know tomorrow, I still have those TC stickers to give to you also.

 

10-4 I'll keep you updated with a play by play on it

 

Buzzing was a bad ground in the wiring harness. Still can't get the pump to work.

 

Anyone know if Toyota's fuel pumps are brushless? If they have brushes, then the brushes, commutator, or even windings may have burned if voltage/amperage was being applied but the rotor wasn't moving. I stupidly did this with my first cordless drill trying to drill through metal in high gear. Only took a second or two, the drill locked up getting caught on the metal piece and I didnt let off the switch fast enough.

 

Pinched gasket perhaps?

 

Over torqued it? Still don't know why it won't fire unless the timing is off.

 

Crank position sensor. Check to make sure that is is fully plugged in.

If you have a scan gauge, check for any CEL's.

 

Timing is off. It backfired when I was checking the throttle body to make sure it was opening. The guy that built my engine is coming out here to set the timing himself. He had one of his guys do it but he's doing it himself this time.

 

But it sounds like it's not building compression too.

 

Timing being off could cause loss of compression.