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3 -130w 6" KC 121s on one relay

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by stump jumper, Apr 30, 2013.

  1. Apr 30, 2013 at 10:58 AM
    #1
    stump jumper

    stump jumper [OP] Well-Known Member

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    According to the amp draw (32.5) I would think that this is no problem on a 40a relay. KC website says only 2.
     
  2. Apr 30, 2013 at 10:59 AM
    #2
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free Since 1983

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    A 40A relay should be able to manage that power, just make sure the wires are thick enough.
     
  3. Apr 30, 2013 at 1:26 PM
    #3
    stump jumper

    stump jumper [OP] Well-Known Member

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    my thought also. I might have trash the output wires that come with the 2 light kit for something heavier. I know on AC I would be looking at 8ga. but not sure on DC.
     
  4. Apr 30, 2013 at 2:16 PM
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    Yota Toy

    Yota Toy Taco Sauce

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    FX retros, Blazer fog-light retro, JVC KW-NT30HD head unit, Pioneer 6X9's in front doors, Pioneer 6.5's in rear doors, two Pioneer 12" subs in sealed boxes, Sony X-Plod amp, Hidden Hitch trailer hitch, EGR window visors, two PIAA low-tone horns, Westin light bar with two 100-watt KC low profile driving lights.
    I would use three relays for redundancy (unlikely to lose all three lights at once) and longevity (much less strain on the relay contacts).
     
  5. Apr 30, 2013 at 2:18 PM
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    Large

    Large Red

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    I would recommend a #10 AWG stranded for 40 amps
     
  6. Apr 30, 2013 at 2:23 PM
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    stump jumper

    stump jumper [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I am thinking 2 relays since there are only 2 outs on the one in the double light kit.
     
  7. Apr 30, 2013 at 2:24 PM
    #7
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free Since 1983

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    As Large mentioned, I'd use 10 ga. for the wire between the power source and the relay. If you run individual wires between the relay and the lights themselves, then you can use whatever wire came with the lights in their kit.

    Yota Toy does bring up a good point though. If you're counting on these lights, redundancy could be something to take into consideration. Personally, I just through a couple extra relays in my glove box and if one fails, just swap it out but, if you don't want to have the hassle of fixing your wiring on a dark trail, multiple relays would ensure that at least 1 or 2 of the lights would continue to function.
     
  8. Apr 30, 2013 at 2:26 PM
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    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free Since 1983

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    What do you mean '2 outs'? I had assumed you'd all but scrapped the 'kit' wiring since you're wiring 3 lights and had purchased a 40A relay. Make sure your power for the lights isn't going through the switch. Sometimes those 'kits' aren't wired very well.
     
  9. Apr 30, 2013 at 4:18 PM
    #9
    stump jumper

    stump jumper [OP] Well-Known Member

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    definitely power for lights through relay. I use to do this a lot as a young man but it has been a while. The KC kit has a 40. Sounds like I need to do some research on relays. Right now o am window shopping. In fact I am killing time at dealer while they detail my truck.
     
  10. Apr 30, 2013 at 4:58 PM
    #10
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free Since 1983

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    Oh, ditch the KC relay and pick up a 4 prong automotive relay at your local auto parts store. Just make sure it's a 40A relay as most common ones are only rated for 30. You could quickly splice in a new relay into the KC kit with very little effort.
     
  11. May 1, 2013 at 9:10 AM
    #11
    stump jumper

    stump jumper [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I am trying to figure this out. If the relay has 2 outputs should I power 2 light off 1 and the third off the other? Last time I did this was in the 80s and I had 4 lights on one relay. I am sure I ran 2 off each output.
     
  12. May 4, 2013 at 8:28 AM
    #12
    joes06tacoma

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    LEER Shell with dome lights operated with 3 way switches, aux backup lights with relay and 3 position switch, modified wiring to compass/temp display and clock to include switch that disables dimming function (poor man's DRL solution), Scan Gauge 2
    Yep.

    Remember that a single pole relay only has one set of contacts. All the power is going through a single contact, the extra output terminal is just an easy way to attach more wiring.

    It's worth remembering that whatever wire you put downstream of a fuse should be able to handle what the fuse is rated at.

    I have wired two pieces of 14 gauge to a relay output before, and although the wire was rated to handle the amperage of the light it was feeding, it wasn't rated to handle the amperage rating of the fuse. In all likelihood, it would never have been a problem, since the most likely reason for the fuse to blow would be a short to ground, the fuse would go fast. Just something to think about.
     
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