3.4L supercharger

I’m about to switch over to these to see how the run NGK 92400. They’re specifically designed for forced induction.

 

@Shortman5 has some information on this

 

Pulley on backwards turn it around. I have JBA headers I’m running the 2” and get 11.2 Pretty regularly... 12.2 on a nice cool humid day. And I’m at a mile high in Denver.


BTW...I keep snapping a bolt on the driver side of my JBA headers where it connects to the cross pipe...ugh!
Any issues with that on yours?

Ask @1997tacomav6 about your seal

 

Finally got my hands on a PC laptop. I need to buy the SplitSecond R4 program to mess with my 7th injector tuning, right?

 

Did you buy it from URD?

 

The program or the 7th? I bought the 7th from them.

 

Email info@URD. Include your order number for the 7th and they will send it to you.

 

Oh great, thank you!

 

What’s the size of the pipe in and out?

 

It’s hard to say man. It’s highly debated. I have not had any issues and 3 oil tests haven’t showed any abnormal wear. and as far as I can tell nobody has posted anything on a failure after installing a light weight crank pulley on a 3.4l. And the 4.0 guys are starting to run them as well with no issues so far that I’ve seen.

But if you run it it’s on you. I’m not going to recommend it to anyone.

 

Right on man thanks for the reply. I ended up just going for an OEM on rock auto. Didn’t really care for the performance side so didn’t see a need for it.

 

You know, I did have to replace a bolt at that connection awhile back but I just figured it rattled out.

 

Funny enough did this exact job during COVID, strip the same bolt. The bolt I got with the tensioner seem to just barely grab the threads and once i stripped it, it went down hill from there. I eventually Helicoiled the engine (you can do it without removing the condenser on a 4r) and made a stud and bolt for the tension er as the one with the kit just grabbed a little bit of threads and seem to be wrong. Nice thing with a stud is i could red locktite the helicoil and stud and still be able to remove the tension er for service. Im not a big fan of the fix (I used a long bolt from a bmw engine and tapped the threads for the nut) but it has held well for a month now with no signs of getting loose.

 

It’s a common problem from want I’ve heard

Did you turn your pulley around?

 

Glad I wasn’t the only unlucky fella to have to Helicoil that hole! I just ordered replacement bolts though.

 

I did, but I didn't like how it was looking so I just threw my old URD pulley on for now until I can call pulley boys and figure out whats going on.

It's not as obvious in the picture as it is in person, but with the pulley flipped around it's not in alignment with the engine pulleys. It looks like the belt could get ejected off. The original way I had it seems to match how the URD pulley is, but like I said it comes in contact with the nose of the supercharger. Also, when I put my old URD pulley on I didn't have any alignment or contact issues. Seems like a small spacer would do the trick.

Pulley flipped around:

You can kinda see how the belt is pulled at an angle and favoring one side of the dynamic tensioner idler.

 

They sell a spacer, you might need that for your application

 

Are 1st gen (grey) super chargers worth installing. I don't know jack about super chargers. What's a fair price for one?

 

The gray supercharger is the 1st model.

They perform the same as the new superchargers,

Some parts are harder to get if needed so they sell for a little less, but they can be ported inside so you can actually get more power if you wanted.

 

Well I watched a 78k mile 2nd gen sell for 2k in 3 hours this weekend. I don't need one that bad but if I can get one for a good deal then I will. How much does porting help. Do all the urd mods work with it?