3.4L supercharger

Add more timing retard*

By increasing the numbers in the cells to increase the amount of retard.

sorry for the confusion.

 

Who you calling retard? LOL just kidding!
Ah me understand now.

 

Thank you for your 2nd grade explanation for me to easily understand! So, I’ll take that troublesome range of RPM and increase the values in those cells by 2 on Map A and drive it a while and see if I observe a change. If not, I’ll just repeat the process until I observe no ping. Explaining it that way makes it sound WAY easier than what I read earlier today! I do not want to drive around all the time with the OD off and I would prefer to not have to keep PWR engaged as well, but I’ll see what happens when I adjust the timing. Thank you

Also, if anything I describe is a bad idea, I hope someone will call me out on it!

Edit: I saved copies of Map A and Map B to Excel so I can always reset it if I really mess something up.

 

Hey guys, I noticed my supercharger sounds more rattly than usual when I put my truck in reverse. Anyone else's truck do this? Could this indicate an issue or am I just paranoid?

EDIT: Also, I swapped out my 2.2 pulley for a 2.1 and didn't see a change in boost (sitting at 7 psi max). My belt is fairly new and the 2.1 pulley is brand new. Could I have a faulty bypass valve?

 

The directions straight from Magnuson and TRD state that you might notice a rattle at idle. Unless you’re deaf it rattles at idle.

If your truck isn’t idling perfectly it will make the rattle more pronounced. And the rotors are now turning slower which may be part of it.

Before I fixed my idle and was idling at 550 in drive with AC and the idle was noticeable. Now that I’ve fixed several things it idles 660 in drive with AC on and sounds better.

Hope that helps.

 

Might just be my idle dropping when shifting into reverse...

 

Id like to add that 7psi seems low for a 2.1. I’m around 8 with a 2.2 at sea level. So I’d check the 7th hard line for cracks as well as the bypass valve. Not sure how to check that though.

 

@austinmtb I second this. I’m at 600’ and on the 2.2 pulley I max out at 8.6psi

 

Hey men. Just want to chime in here and check in you guys, as I like to offer support to the 1st genners as well.

What is the part number for your spark plugs in either Denso or NGK?

 

IK22 for Denso Irridiums.

I swapped to the NGK 92400 FR7BHX-S Ruthenium HX Plug. Seems to work fine but I need to test them out more.

 

Ahh, okay, so you guys know about the Rutheniums already. Perfect. I was going to make the suggestion as I noted a major improvement over OE style running condition and just general driveability in general. You guys got it.

 

I think I’m the only one actually. I picked up up from you in the 2nd gen section. I haven’t mentioned it to anyone yet.

Overall it does seem to run smoother. I’m planning to pull some timing retard to see if I can run more advanced as well.

 

Well then there is a small select group of us who are pioneering in that aspect now.

I'm glad you swing through my thread. It's my favorite place to be because you never stop learning there.

 

First time hearing about the Rutheniums...interesting. I'll definitely look into those as I need to replace my spark plugs soon (IK22s currently)

 

Really all I have to do is turn ECT power off and lug it in OD. That’s when it loves to ping.

 

I wonder if you may have low RPM due to high gear induced pinging.

Similar to when you are attempting to lug in a manual with a gear too tall for the speed that you are going. (i.e attempting to go 10 mph in 6th gear)

It sounds like you need a tune.

 

You cannot tune the 3.4 ECU. Our options are piggyback or standalone.

I’ve been wondering if re-gearing to 4:88s would help and it’s due to the 285s.

As long as it’s in ECT power the torque converter kicks off much sooner and reduces the load.

 

Ideally it would be better if you stayed in ECT then. Do you have a standalone?

 

No. It’s not worth that. They’re very expensive and the closed tuner is 3 hours away. It would be better to just engine swap for an LS and make way more power with more gears. I’ll just drive around it.

 

Auto or manual?
If auto how high does the transmission let your rpms go before it changes gears?