3.4L supercharger

Now I just need to figure out why...

 

Auto. I have an IPT valve body so it’ll differ a little from a stock trans, but usually 2500 if I’m just gently driving. Obviously shifts at a higher rpm if I'm romping on it.

 

Valve body mod won’t change shift RPM. That controlled by the ECU.

 

WE HAVE A PROBLEM WITH USING WINDSHIELD WIPER FLUID FOR METHONAL MIX FOR LONG TERM USE.

Here is some important information when running Methonal for everyone to take note.

I’ve been running methonal for about 80,000 miles so far.

It’s been working perfectly and keeps my AFR perfect with 12 pounds and. 2” pulley.


BUT WE HAVE A PROBLEM NOW!

I was running boost juice which is 50/50 methonal and water.

Boost juice is a bit expensive @ about 12.00 a gallon. Because I drive 30-35k a year Im was using a lot.

So I decided to make my own boost juice with wiper fluid that starts off with 30/70 methonal 70 percent water mix.

I bought a 5 gallon container of pure methonal @ 32.00 and mixed the wiper fluid to 50/50.
Now my methonal mix was down to around 3.00 a gallon or so from the 12.00 I was paying before.

So something I didn’t know is that wiper fluid is water that comes directly out of the river!!,

It’s not distilled, it’s not filtered for minerals. It has a general filter and that’s it.

So the side effects are there will be mineral buildup in the nozzle and on the bearings and seals inside
the supercharger.

My supercharger rotor pack seals failed at 80,000 miles which is uncommon.

While the supercharger was being rebuilt it was discovered that the rotor pack seals were encapsulated with hard water mineral deposits. The hard water crude had made the seals fail and the supercharger oil slowly Leaked out of the Reservoir into the rotor area and the bearings failed because of the lack of supercharger oil. There was no visual leak of this oil because it was leaking into the rotor area inside.

Bottom line is DONT use windshield wiper fluid long term because it’s not distilled or mineral free and might damage your rotor pack seals with long term use and will plug up your nozzle.

My solution for this is to just buy distilled water (mineral free) from target at .80 cents a gallon.

5 gallons of distilled water =4.00 plus 32.00 for 5 gallons of methonal = 36.00

36.00 will make you 10 gallons at 50/50 and that’s about 3.50 a gallon instead of snow performance at 12.00 a gallon.

Also note methonal is heavier than water, if you want to be perfect in your mixture you should weigh out the two amounts.

I just mix it by volume, it’s close enough for me.

Depending on the size of your nozzle and your foot a gallon will get you 500-1500 miles a gallon.

 

I may get flamed for this but would like to add some info about water/methanol injection, first of all John what You have done with your Tacoma is very impressive have seen Your videos....awesome, sorry to hear about SC seal issues but glad You passed along the info.
I used to mix ADI (anti detonation injection) fluid in 500gl batches for an aircraft that had twin R2800 radial engines and 2 speed super chargers (rotor type, not roots), this was obviously a long time ago however theory is the same. If I remember correctly the ratio was 60/40 water to methanol with 1gl of anti corrosive oil and 110cc of anti fungal now why I bring this up is because the ONLY reason we added methanol was to keep the water from freezing at altitude. My point is if an individual lives in a warm climate they don't need the alcohol they could use straight distilled water, water can carry away twice the amount of heat compared to alcohol per unit volume. The whole intent is to keep cylinder head temps down while in boost condition, the only benefit of alcohol is that it burns off clean. For those who do live in climates that have freezing conditions a 60/40 ratio should keep the water from freezing.....it worked at 28,000 feet.
OK send the flames.

 

Yeah. This is why I was using low meth mix in a hot humid state. I honestly didn’t notice much of any benefit and I was having a pooling in the intake issue so I disconnected it all. When I get my supercharger rebuilt I will try again. I don’t want to dry out the factory needle bearings.

I’d like to add that the issue with straight water is nozzle size and volume. With straight water you want a smaller nozzle because it won’t vaporize like meth. But a smaller nozzle isn’t good at atomization and will dribble and piss more when the pump kicks off.

 

Finally after almost 6 months i got my rotor pack back from the High Speed Lab. It looks great but I don't recommend them at all as it took 6 MONTHS to get just a rotor pack coated and sent back to me..... Now time to finish the rebuild and get this thing installed

 

Cool, good to hear.

 

@1997tacomav6
You’re not alone!

 

Yep, Me too.

 

It's actually the other way around. Smaller nozzle will atomize better then a larger one.
https://youtu.be/EslQrhEAt0Q

 

Well I took the nozzles out and sprayed each. The small one had a terrible pattern, dribbled, and overall wasn’t any good. Maybe mine was bad but I had to stop using it.

Need to add that the real issue was when the pump turned off the small nozzle had a much more pronounced bleed off where it just pissed. This was creating pooling in my intake.

 

Good morning, TW.
I'm seriously contemplating on supercharging my tacoma but there is so much information out there. After reading countless post I still can use some more information. I live in Long Beach, CA and the altitude is 52' above sea level. I do drive to the mountains so I will be driving my truck from 0-7000' +/-. URD has a combo kit that comes with the SC, 7th injector, optional pulley (2.1 & 2.2) and headers. After reading around, at my altitude I should be OK running the stock pulley but do I need the 7th injector? If I don't need the 7th, will JUST the SC alone be enough power to get my up the mountain? Also, what does "happy ping motor" mean? I heard this term when SCing but aren't pings bad?

Thanks.

 

Thanks for your input.
But the main reason in particular for the methanol is to richen up the AFR in boost if the OEM setup is not able to keep pace. Of course in winter it has to be at least 30 percent.

 

Yup, agreed, something is up
I’m running a 2” and getting 10.5 in summer and 11.5 in winter

 

Thanks for the psi numbers guys.

I have a buddy that works at my local toyota dealership that's going to test it for boost leaks tomorrow.

 

Ok that makes sense, we had mixture levers to control AFR (carb), plus fuel was 115/145 octane (purple) just trying to relate ADI to our trucks for future reference.
Thanks Andy

 

I was in the middle of rebuilding my supercharger assembly. I realized the coating on the rotary assembly is looking rough. Is there a good company that I can get a replacement rotary assembly or send it in and get it back in a reasonable amount of time. I live in the bay area.

 

Jon Bond superchargers

 

What happened to high speed lab?