3.4L supercharger

I reached out to them, waiting for a reply

 

Looks like no SC for a while. Im hoping they have a rotary in stock i can buy and just ship them my core for a refund of the difference

 

Guess i should have checked my pulley size to confirm it. I thought it was a 2.2 untill tonight. It's a 2.4. Even more reason to step up to a 2.1.

 

What grease do you use for your bearings?

 

Hey Guys, Im about to order the Magnuson kit. Been doing lots of reading, research, etc. My first step is to istall the kit with no fuel or other mods but I always assumed I would need cooler plugs.

I have been emailing Magnuson back and fourth and when I asked what plugs they recomend, this was the reply:

"HI Todd,

No aftermarket plugs are required for this setup being it is running 6lbs of boost also no need to re-gap them. If it were me while I had everything off I would go back with a new fresh set of plugs that the oem calls for as it would be easy to do while you are in there.

Hope this helps, if you have any other questions or would like to get the kit on order just let me know and I can give you a call.

Thanks,"

That makes no sense to me. Does anyone out there run stock plugs with an SC?

 

Talk to Gadget with URD. He has so much helpful information about what you need. I've been talking to him for the last couple of days trying to figure out what system works best for me. He did not mention anything about plugs. His recommendation TO ME was to get the 7th injector and run the stock pulley for now and maybe jump to the 2.2 if I need more boost.

https://www.urdusa.com/

 

Those needle bearing use a special grease and Jon bond recommends agains it as over greasing them can lead to failure. I’m sure some people do it but I wouldn’t. It would be best to just replace the needle bearings if you need them.

If I can find a link I’ll post it up.

 

7th comes with 2 steps cooler plugs.

 

You're right. I just looked it up.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Eaton-Supe...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

@1997tacomav6 were did you decide to put post charge air temp sensor?

 

One temp sensor will be in between the throttle body and MAF, actually next yo the MAF, the other temp sensor will be in one of the casting plugs that the grey supercharger has. There is a hex bolt that can be taken out on the hot side going into the intake and the sensor can be installed there,
Still waiting for my supercharger to come back from the rebuild

 

beat me to the punch

 

Over the past week or so I’ve read through this whole thread, as well as the rebuild thread, and a few others; lots of great information and many thanks to all participants!

I recently picked up a gen 1 supercharger that the seller said was rebuilt and only had about 25 miles on it. The story is long winded so I won’t trouble you all with that, and he seemed to be a straight shooter, I didn’t feel like he was dishonest or anything of the sort. With that said, I am of the mind to “trust, but verify”.

While I have the unit on my bench what are some things I should look at? How can I verify this supercharger is ready to be installed and up for at least 100,000 mile service cycle?

I am not opposed to sending it off for a rebuild, as I don’t have enough space or a press to do it on my own, but if it is as fresh as the seller said it is I’d be really happy. Just need to know how to verify things.

I have ordered a bunch of stuff to try and get things done right on the first go:
Hardware Kit
Dynamic Tensioner
Innovate PSB-1 Wideband AFR / Boost Gauge
URD 7th Injector
Snow Performance Stage 2 Methanol Injection Kit w/ VC-50 controller
URD 2.2 Pulley
URD Tensioner Pulley
URD Crankshaft Pulley
DT headers
Gates Belt


Here’s a picture of the unit. It looks to be in great shape to me, but I don’t really have experience to back that feeling up. Look forward to any and all thoughts from those of you with more experience!

 

Without going into too much detail they only say that because that how it was “designed”. They won’t recommend anything past that. Most folks do it because they should, need to or just because it’s added safety.

 

How did you determine that the rotor pack bearings? I believe you mentioned it needed them sooner than last time.

 

1) you can turn the supercharger over and open up the oil fill plug and look to see what color the oil is.

If it’s black that means the supercharger has some miles on it, if the supercharger has 25 miles it should look like new oil, old supercharger oil will stink something bad.

2) the pulley shown is either on backwards or it not tighten down, the gap look too large from the snout
to the pulley lip.
If so the belt will be out of alignment.

3) the rotor pack plate looks to be the original plate, typical these plates get replaced when a rebuild is done but not always.

A rebuild can mean a lot of different things.

One person will say a rebuild is replacing a few bearings maybe just the snout bearing.

A full rebuild is ALOT more than that,
Did the owner say who did the rebuild and what was done?

 

Thanks for the response John.

I was thinking the oil would be the first check as well, since it’s easy and straight forward. I’m curious if I should try and get further into the internals and have a look, or if that would just invite problems since I don’t really have the means to rebuild myself. Have you ever cracked yours open yourself, or have you always sent it off? I’m mechanically inclined and wouldn’t be scared of the job if I had a press and a decent work area, but I don’t.

The pulley definitely looks out of sorts. All the examples I have seen here show it much more snugged up. I have the URD 2.2” pulley to replace it in any event, and will be taking care to make sure things line up well when install time arrives.

Hard to tell with the rotor pack plate since its all been painted, I’ll take a closer look at it tomorrow and see if I can spot anything that might tell me one way or the other.

I believe the guy had “the rebuild” done local to him. In a nutshell he had another supercharger he had sent out of state to have rebuilt with all the bells and whistles, he was having a hard time getting any updates from them, so after about 6 months of waiting he bought another supercharger (this unit) and took it to a local shop. The same day he installed this unit the one he had sent out showed up. So he swapped them since the other had more into it, and kept this around as a spare. He has some sick dogs and needed some quick money so up for sale it went and I snagged it.

I’m thinking it was probably not a full rebuild at this point. But at the very least I’ll take a peak at the oil before I start jumping to any conclusions.

 

Anyone with the black 2nd generation design supercharger may want to check this the next time you have it off.
While cleaning up mine today and doing a little smoothing of the runner castings. I found this slag at a casting seam in the supercharger. You could see it while looking in #2 & #3 runners. It knocked off super easy with a screwdriver. Eventually it would have come loose and ate up a cylinder or two. It was easy to see with a flashlight. Easier to see with rotors out and light from the rotor pack area back lighting it If you do have it. Best to pull rotor pack to retrieve all the pieces you knock off. It wasn't in the runner itself but farther inside.

 

Theres not going to be a way to know what was done unless the supercharger is completely taken apart.

The problem with these superchargers are once a bearing goes out you have a 50/50 chance of damage
being done to the case, rotors, rotor pack, plate or internal parts.
If your lucky you will hear a small unusual noise

If you hear ANY unusual noises from your supercharger rebuild it ASAP, or wait till it destroys parts in the supercharger.
My rotor pack bearing went out two months ago, 75,000, with zero warning and sounded like my engine was blowing up, like a jack hammer coming from the engine.
The case inside, rotors and rotor plate all got damaged in that 5 seconds before I shut
the motor off.

I need to figure out how to do my own rebuilds (replacing the bearings) and do them every 75,000 instead of waiting for a bearing to go out and take a gamble if that bearing destroys any other parts.

I’m running a smaller pulley so my bearings are getting more stress and wear tho