3.4L supercharger

I thought they said your wait on the rotors was only going to a few days? Things changed?

 

Mine has been there since the beginning of January.
I got a text on July 21st that my supercharger is in assembly. I took that to mean I'd have it back soonish.

As it turns out it doesn't matter because my driver's side engine mount perch is broken and the engine has to come out to fix it. I put a ratchet strap on there for now. It's really tempting to leave it that way. But, I really need to fix it properly.

 

ouch! Hope the fix goes well!

 

jesus....that is a long as turnaround time lol. I need to get mine rebuilt soon, coming up on 100k miles on the truck this year and I assume the supercharger has the same amount. Might just rebuilt the nose myself though and hope the rest is still okay if the turnaround time is that long on a full rebuild, yikes.

 

I tried to do the same but realized I needed to get the rotary done

 

Mine needed a TON of work. Even without Covid it would have taken a couple months.

Me too!
I think it's been broken for about 4 years.
The fan blades would rub on the fan shroud on really steep inclines with the engine under load. I though it was the fan shroud being loose so I fixed that and it still happened. I finally did the test where you stand on the brake with your left foot, put it in drive and hit the gas.
This was the result-
https://www.instagram.com/p/CDfGbYnHUpn/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

So I bought new motor mounts. Upon install I discovered the broken driver side perch.
I attached a ratchet strap from the engine hoist bracket thing to the frame. The truck drives soooo much better now. Throttle response is amazing!

This winter I'll have to pull the engine, cut off the old perches and weld new ones on. There's one brand that looks pretty good...DMZ I think. Also going to replace the rear main seal and whatever else needs to be done while in there.
I might have a shop do this but not sure yet.

What I'd really like to do is take it to Import Performance in Bend OR and have them weld in the new perches and while they're in their have them replace the engine, transmission, transfer case, fuel system and guage cluster from a JDM 1KZ turbo diesel and have them put in a veggie oil burning system so I can take advantage of the never ending supply of used fryer oil I have at work (I'm a chef).
If it weren't for smog I'd do this tomorrow. The free fryer oil makes the $24K make some sense....not really but it makes it sorta doable.

 

Still looking for what people have done to solve the p303 code any help would be great.

 

Do it! it's actually really easy to do with a small arbor press or H press. I've done mine a few times without issue. I did the nosecone bearings/seals and the rear rotor pack bearings a few weeks ago. 1500 miles and still pulls 10psi at 5400'.

 

High speed lab has had mine since first of March for a routine rebuild. Still hopeful that I might get it back before winter.

 

What Does P0303 Mean?
P0303 indicates that cylinder number 3 is experiencing misfires. A misfire occurs when an insufficient amount of fuel is burning in a cylinder. The efficient burning of fuel is essential to engine operation as the combustion of fuel is what provides the energy to power the engine. A misfire from one or more cylinders can be caused by many reasons from a faulty ignition system, fuel system, or internal engine failure. When P0303 occurs, it should be fixed immediately as long term driving with engine misfires could cause consequential damage to your engine. Many times, P0303 occurs when there are worn-out spark plugs, spark plug wires, or a faulty ignition coil.

Maybe the install re-used the intake manifold gasket and there is a leak? Maybe a spark plug wire got pinched and is 'leaking' (run engine in the dark, check for sparking to cam covers etc). Or maybe fuel injector wiring pinched? Or simply running the older plugs and their gap which was fine when NA is showing their age/gap with boost?

 

Awesome I will pass these tips to him.
Can this code come up because the 7th injector has not been tuned?

 

I want to say no, but the controller does play with timing and bad settings in bad cells might make the OE ECU upset.

 

I doubt it. I've run the 7th injector kit on the stock URD tune for 3 years and never had a code related to a misfire

I assume that you installed new spark plugs and wires when installing the supercharger? I would start there since a spark plug or wire issue can throw that code.

 

Unless whoever installed the 7th cut a injector wire.

 

I’ve driven 625,000 miles all superchargered and NEVER had that code, I don’t think it’s supercharger related

 

One thing about rebuilding the supercharger is if your getting up there in miles your better off doing it BEFORE something breaks or a bearing locks up.

Once a bearing goes out then you have a 50/50 chance something else gets damaged,
Rotors,
Case wall,
Gears,
Bearing seal area,
The shaft etc.
And bearing rolling into the engine intake, then into the piston area

 

Mine was 80kish with fairly regular nose cone oil changes. And the first time I did the rear bearings on my gray SC.

 

Thanks

yes he put new everything in . Ran with no codes until he put the charger in.

thanks you guys I’ll really the info you gave me.

 

When you replace the rotor pack bearings and pull the gears off how do you line up the gears or time it after that?

 

Iirc the 7th kit comes with the needed spark plugs but not with new wires, might be that he has a bad wire there if he reused his old ones