3.4L supercharger

I didn't replace those. Just the nose cone bearings and rear rotor support bearings.

 

The rotor pack bearing are what fail on me 1st

 

I believe at some point I read that the greatest benefit to our trucks is at 75% water, keep some methanol for the octane boost and cool the sc as much as possible.

Also just got tuning down on my aem! Can’t wait to spend countless hours fine tuning

 

I have a 10th of the miles you do so if mine last another 100k I'm good with that! I think my snout shaft has some imperfections where the lip seal rides, I still get a tiny amount of oil coming from there.

 

Im running a smaller pulley and putting more stress on my bearings, so my rotor pack bearing are the 1st to go out, the snout bearings actually is the strongest of all the bearings in the supercharger and oil changes are needed to keep these bearings in good condition, also Im running methanol and thats probably doesn't help the other bearings I have. The nose seal you should definitely get the high temperature seal, depending on how many miles the supercharger has the nose shaft eventually will get wear from the nose seal and start leaking

 

Something I did and recommend STRONGLY is if you have 200k miles on your fuel injectors its time to get them cleaned and serviced even if everything is running fine.
The fuel injectors actually have a filter in them that gets plugged over time and the spray pattern becomes defective,
Motor west did mine for around 125.00 with 2 day turn around.
The new power I have from 3500 rpms up is an amazing difference. If you have the supercharger off its an easy job.

 

I have a 2.0 pulley and the Viton nose cone seal.

Mines probably in the 100k range for miles.

 

YOU actually DONT need to even break the fuel line apart as most videos show.
You can actually just disconnect the back fuel line rail bolt and and other rail bolts and lift the complete rail up and remove the injectors out from under the rail.
This way you have a less chance of a fuel leak from the bango bolts and crush washers if you went that route

 

yeah I'm starting to get some minor oil stains right under the nose cone, got a slow leak starting. Nose rebuild in my future

 

You can always replace the nose seal, it’s an easy job, just lube up the interior seal when installing the seal
and be careful not to damage or roll the inner seal lips as you get it on the shaft.

Also keep an eye on your oil level here forward.

The seals can wear out from wear and heat cycling over the years,
You also have a set of rotor pack seals that can leak on the rotor side and you will never know about that because it’s leaking into the supercharger, so checking a higher mileage superchargers oil level is a good idea,

 

Just a little info: Stock 3.4 is 9.6:1

 

Care to expand on this?

 

Octane booster should be used with anything over 4 lbs of boost unless you can find higher than 92 based on this.

 

At given compression ratio of 9.6:1 which is stock 3.4 compression. By adding pressure/boost into the cylinder it in effect raises the compression ratio in the cylinders. So at lets say 10lbs of boost it raises compession ratio to ~16:1 compression ratio.

 

Right, I understand that. Just curious what your point is? Obviously, in stock form, were already past that.

Do you have plans to run a smaller pulley?

Im running a 2.2 and have a 2.1 but not sure I’ll ever install it.

 

Just some info. I'm going to go with a 2.2 eventually.

 

Have you been able to tune the ping out? I ended up replacing my crank sensor. Running SplitSec base maps and I don’t ping even if I roll on the throttle with 33s ECT off in OD and 4th.

 

What would the crank sensor replacement fix? Are u running urds tuner or split second tunner

 

Im not sure to be honest.

URD 7th IS SplitSecond. The URD Base maps came from SS.

I had pinging for years. But since I never had any lights or anything I didn’t think to mess with it even though it was always in the back of my mind. I just decided to try it and it solved all of my ping issues.

This is after speaking with URD, SS, Magnuson. Etc. countless hours of reading customtacos, 4Runner forums etc. NOBODY ever suggested to try the crank sensor. In fact Manguson told me to run a under drive pulley to “solve” the issue.

Can’t believe I didn’t do this to begin with even though I’ve thought about it since installing the S/C. IMO everyone should try this instead of anything else before buying tuning software. It would have saved me a shitload of time and cash. It may very well be everyone’s issue that has ping.

 

Interesting, how hard is it to swap out. I really need to replace a knock sensor harness but realllllly dont want to do it. Do u know of a knock sensor relocation kit