3.4L supercharger

Thanks but I don’t think that would explain the correct idle in the morning and low idle in the afternoon. I did clean everything a couple months ago and then had an 1100 rpm idle, TB was worn out. Put on a spare and sent the original to max bore which fixed the high idle but not the inconsistent idle. I’ve tried both of my IAC motors which OHM out correctly. It’s not a big deal, runs great otherwise, but when I saw your post about running differently in the morning compared to evening I thought I’d ask about it.

 

You might need to buy a cheap 3 arm puller for 15.00 and take the grinder to the right angles to grab the very edge and use duck tape around the center of the arms to keep them in place

 

ooof...I knew it...I don't...It still lines up so well with the other pulleys I didn't think I needed one...I'm going to have to machine something thin to wedge in behind it to hook the puller onto

 

You need the spacer for the 2” pulley,

This way if there is a leak you can see behind there and taking the pulley off is easier

 

You might be able to gently pry the pulley out a little by wedging a fat screwdriver in between the nose and pulley as you turn it and do this in different spots just enough to get the jaws on it

 

If you don’t have the spacer you definitely are not lined up correctly.
Some superchargers actually need two spacers,

I wonder if this has something to do with the belt issue u have

 

I would order a Gates belt on line,
Maybe coming from a different location will eliminate the possibility of a defect batch or fake
quality item if I was u

 

i broke a belt on the urd 2.1 pulley as well. no spacer either. the 2.1 sat out like 2/16's further than the pulley boys 2"

 

this won't hurt the supercharger? I was able to do that but stopped because I was nervous

 

If your worried don’t,

You can take the 3 jaw clamps and line them up with one of the 1st rib on the pulley,
Wrap all the clamps with duck tape super tight somrhe clamps are squeezed together.
Line the center bolt up and adjust it tight, then with one hand hold the tape and clamp super tight
and with the other hand slowly tighten the nut to pull the pulley off enough to then get the clamps reset
behind the pulley

 

I was just asking since Ive never seen the inside of the charger or had the nose cone off yet

 

I just removed my Iridium IK-22 denso spark plugs and Installed The NGK Rutheniums. The Iridiums looked good but It was definitely running super rich. which surprised me since I have the 2" pulley.That 7th Injector tune uses a ton of fuel

 

Definitely go gates, better than the toyota belt and any other belt I have heard of. Can't hurt to try as you are flying through them. $25 I think

 

The truck loves those new Ruthenium plugs. It ran super smooth. I'm thinkin it mostly just loves the tighter gap and the fact they are carbon free and brand new.

 

If you look at the picture I posted of the napa belt sleeve It says Gates on the back

 

My thought on this is that the belt is hitting your oil dipstick when you get on it. When you gas it, belts stretch and the dynamic tensioner will push your belt into the dipstick and if it hits, NO more belt? thats my bet.

 

True, revised my theory, wrote that before looking at pg 154 and 155

 

I warmed the truck and revved it to redline and it doesn't hit the oil stick but I'm sure its possible with a violent shift. I still think the theory of after hard clutch dumps it weakens the belt after a few thousand miles

 

I don’t think you’ll be able to see how much the tensioner is taking up at idle and revving. I would think the the engine under load would cause more slack.

There a few videos on YouTube that guys have put cameras on their tensioner and driven around. These belts stretch under load way more than you would think.

 

I believe it... tha'ts what I was trying to reiterate. I think the manuals shift harder and slack the belts harder