3.4L supercharger

I have been diligently reading this thread. So if the motor seems to run lean/ ping why not just add higher flow injectors instead of a 7th or Meth? Please forgive me if this is a dumb question. Just trying to learn.

on page 50, and still reading. maybe it has been brought up and answered

 

The short answer is the OEM ECU does not allow you to just add fuel or timing. It's main purpose is to give you the best possible fuel mileage. So any fueling changes you make the ECU will compensate by leaning out the mixture and pulling timing.

To be able to over come this limitation you have to trick it into thinking it is still in charge and doing it job. This is where piggy back systems like the 7th injector or stand alone systems like the Haltech come into play.

 

@Digiratus Thanks. So there is no way to reprogram the stock ecu? I guess people would have done that by now if it was possible. I'm still trying to wrap my head around engine controls, etc. My truck is a 96 and came with a supercharger. It blew a valve, and I installed a rebuilt motor as a known good. When I put the new motor in I didn't install the SC, but Im getting the itch to put it back on (provided it is done correctly).

I'm really trying to absorb everything I can to make it a reality.

 

I thought the 95.5/96 years couldn't run the supercharger because of their ECU, does yours have the 97 ecu swapped in?

 

@eon_blue After reading a bunch I have learned that the 95.5/96 ECU don't seem to be compatible, but that didn't stop the previous owner from trying. I have another ECU that came with my JDM motor that I rebuilt. Ill have to check it to see what year it is from. Even still is Toyota ECU incompatible with the SC. What would I have to do provided that the ECU is from a 97 and on Tacoma. Is this where the piggy back comes in? Im at sea level so I assume I have to run the Stock Pulley, What size is that?

 

I'm a little surprised that other supercharged '96 owners haven't commented here. Others have definitely done it.

The stock size pulley is 2.37" in diameter.

 

So has anyone successfully ran a heat exchanger on the 3.4?

 

Hey guys,
I installed a Magnuson supercharger on my 3.4, truck is running great, but wanted to add the extra benefit of a meth kit. Just bought the Snow 2.5 stage kit. My question is where do you get the accurate boost source from? There is a pressure sensor in the kit but does not say anything beyond install at accurate boost source. Point lost for Summit Racing instructions.
Any help would be appreciated.

 

Long time no talk. Just chiming in to mention that it seems my Innovate PSB-1 MAP sensor went bad today. Boost reads 43.8PSI even with the engine shut off. I suspect it just got too hot and cooked itself in today's brutal 106º weather. Do we have any discount code for Innovate parts?

Not sure about how it works with your meth kit, but my boost reading comes off the back of the blower and I have it teed off to send one line to my URD box and one line to my AFR/boost gauge.

 

Welcome back.

I've been having some issues with my PSB-1 recently too. Mine is inconsistent on the AFR side. Sometimes getting the heater error but after running for a while it'll starting reading again. But on some start up sequences it'll be back to the heater error. Then this weekend going over Washington pass, the AFR reading was stuck on 10.0, even on the downhill side where vacuum was in the high -20s. Confirmed the AFRs were correct though with the Haltech software.

 

Is that to tune the 7th injector?

 

I don't think I'm familiar with the heater error. What does the display show when it does this?

 

I can't remember the exact way it displays. I think it is: AFR HTR 01

I get a photo of it the next time I see it.

 

I believe it can, though it's underutilized in that role.

 

Could you please elaborate on what it dose.

 

https://urdusa.com/urd-mass-air-flow-fuel-timing-calibrator/

 

Is that not normal during the startup sequence?

 

His was doing it while running and driving

 

Ah

 

Matthewmay1, Do you know what you are T'd off of? I was told the fuel pressure regulator was a good spot. This is right on the back of the SC. Since posting, I have done this and get readings up to 5 PSI now. Seems to be working.

For you guys getting erroneous PSI indications on your gauges, are they electronic. Meaning your are using a pressure transducer to send the signal. If so, I had the same issue with a Snow VC50 controller gauge combo and it was the two signal wires from the transducer. You have a short in one of them. I would run a test lead and bypass each cable until you identify which one. Hope that helps.