3.4L supercharger

Another quick question. How much heat can the internals of the SC handle? I’m wanting to get the unit powder coated but not sure the limits of it. The coater said he can cook the powder for a longer duration of time at a lower temp.
I am wanting to get it coated after I rebuild / overhaul the unit. Thanks

 

You should take the internals out and then it should be fine at 200ish degrees for a while, probably even good to 250

 

I was never really able to dial it in where the truck ran predictably. One day it pings as I drive up the hill on my drive home, when the day before it ran up the same hill without any pinging. Then when I tried to a dial out the pinging, the truck then ran really rich when the temperature cooled. Essentially, the "tune" you save in the URD piggy back will never be perfect for the many other various driving scenarios you'll encounter.

Keep in mind, you'll need a scan tool, an AFR gauge, and other support equipment to tune the 7th injector. Oh, and at least 4 eyeballs. That'll put you closer to Haltech territory.

Don't get me wrong, you will gain a few hp with the 7th injector kit. But the Haltech really wakes up the 5VZ in a way that the 7th injector kit will never be able to do, just as long as the primary engine control is coming from the stock ECU.

 

Adding more gas doesn't really seem to be the solution. The problem is high intake air temps and high cylinder pressure with low octane gas causing pinging. Water meth has a cooling and octane-boosting additive that makes it a better fix then the 7th injector. You will still have some of the tuning battles of the stock ecu trying to pull fuel and such but I don't think it would be as bad as the 7th injector.

 

How do these rotors look? I’ve seen a lot worse online.

 

How often should the rotor bearings be replaced? 100k

 

Full rebuild is recommended about every 100k so I'd say it's probably time

 

What are your thoughts on the pics of the rotors?

 

Those rotors look pretty clean to me. I would run it as is, personally

 

Thought the same thing.

 

If your past 100k all the bearings should be replaced including the rotor bearings and rotor seals.
Rotor seals if they fail with leak into the supercharger and you will never
Know till the bearings burn up and the snout is out of oil unless u check it regularly
If you don’t replace the rotor bearings and seals it’s just a matter of time before they fail and damage the supercharger.
But most people don’t replace them because the rotors have to be timing and depending on the gen supercharger the rotor bearings are difficult to remove and install,

 

It’s the gen 1 TRD charger

 

Is there any vids out there replacing the seals and bearing for the rotors? I’ve only seen snout rebuilds and needles in the back

 

The rotor bearings for 1st gen I believe are spot welded in and you need a special jig to time the rotors

 

Would supra injectors help in any way? Im going to be sending some injectors that I have in to be cleaned, tested, and rebuilt. But figured why not spend the extra money and supra injectors rebuild instead if they are going to be a "upgrade" and help in any way.

 

Supra injectors, without a way to control them, will only make your your truck run too rich in the low and mid level boost, even with the supercharger.

 

I’ll be running a 7th inj w/ URD module and that’s the most control I’ll have. No haltech here

 

Stock injectors with an upgraded fuel pump will be fine with the URD 7th injector kit. Supra injectors will just add another layer of difficulty, with no real performance benefit, when trying to tune the URD 7th kit.

 

Appreciate the honesty

 

No problem. There is a segment in the video below discussing how the stock ECU will try to keep the AFRs at a predetermined value in closed loop, even while in boost.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?time_co...E3LDM2ODQyLDEzOTExNywyODY2Ng&feature=emb_logo