3.4L TRD Supercharger rebuild

You won’t tell any difference,

But with that much wear to the coating your right around the corner for a full rebuild.

That much coating wear usually is showing at close to 100,000 miles.

 

I was pulling the snout to rebuild it. Pulled the rotor and discovered this. Is there anything else to rebuild besides the snout and rotor coating? (I have the needle bearings for rotor also).

 

I just starting rebuilding mine and I have the same problem. I contacted a few companies waiting on a call back for prices and time lines

 

You need to do a full rebuild with that much wear showing,
It much better to do it now rather then wait for a bearing to fail and mess up other parts.

 

What bearings? In the rotor?

 

I replaced everything and I'm looking to send my rotary assembly in

 

1) snout Bearings and seals
2) rotor pack bearings
3) needle bearings
4) rotor pack seals 65.00
5) snout nose seal
6) rotor plate if damaged, this is common and needs to be replaced
7) rotors coated

Around 200-300 for parts depending plus coating

 

There is a kit below that works great if you're handy or trust yourself and have the tools that will save some of the cost

 

Hey y'all. This is my first post here on TW and i just finished reading this entire thread, so please forgive me if i am still missing information already present somewhere herein. I just bought a gen1 supercharger used off of a fellow here in CO and am attempting to rebuild before installing. I have a few potentially stupid questions that I hope you will indulge:

1) When i pressed the main shaft out of the nosecone, It fell thru the box I was holding under the press and rolled on the floor. I did not *find* a spring like the one pictured in the initial post(s) of this thread... do these older gen1 (two-piece) superchargers not include that spring inside the nosecone? I spoke to someone at an SC shop who said that "some did and some didnt"

2) It looks like I am going to need to completely separate the blower (i think?) portion from the intake, etc. in order to press/hammer out the needle bearings behind the rotor assembly, is this correct? (there are two pieces that support the upper portion that is mounted atop the blower, here, occluding where it looks like these needle bearings sit, so i dont imagine they can be backed out without first removing this?

3) any tips for removing the rotor plate from the housing into which it was bolted by the nosecone bolts? Unlike later generations, this SC does not have any kind of leverage points built into the outer surface of the rotor plate, the way the nosecone's outer surface has such places to place a pry-bar. I know there was a post a bunch of pages back asking about this, so just wondering if there is any better technique than just kinda banging on it with a mallet to try to loosen it up some. The picture in this post also seemed to reinforce my interpretation regarding #2, above...

This SC came with 7th injector kit, fuel pump, etc. My plan is to replace all the bearings (and seal) in the nosecone, along with the aforementioned needle bearings behind the rotor assembly, and then reassemble, refill, and install along with the new fuel pump and new (colder) spark plugs. If the rotor coating looks seriously warn, i might send that in for re-coating. Is there anything I am overlooking? Does anyone have a shop here in CO that they recommend? it seems like @1997tacomav6 has been sending off to that shop in MO, despite living here, so I am assuming probably not?

Thanks a ton in advance and apologies if i missed one of these questions being answered somewhere previously!

 

Don't know about the gen 1 supercharger specific stuff, pictures might help, but what i can say is be very careful when removing the rotor playe. The aluminum as a very soft material and dents easily. Even with the pieces to get leverage on, I was worried about the casing on mine. You might be able to go in from the outlet on the blower with a brass rod to push it out as a resort if you are really careful, but you run the risk of marring the inside of the case.

 

The problem for you or a local mechanic is the rotor pack bearings and the way they are held in place for the 1st gen
and the timing of the rotors. Everything else is easy.

If these two areas are not done correctly you will have problems with your rebuild.
Normally a supercharger rebuilder has a jig to do the setup. The tolerance on the rotor timing is paper thin.

I’ve heard some of the supercharger rebuilding companies are 6 months behind or more

 

Thanks a ton for the replies! @1997tacomav6 can you say more about the first part? Rebuild info on these 1st gen chargers is relatively scant, compared to later models, and I really appreciate whatever info you can provide! Like you, I am also here in Denver, so if there is someone local you'd recommend, please let me know I really have two main follow-up questions:

1) Do i need to worry about the timing, etc. If i am not taking the rotor pack/assembly apart, but merely removing it to replace the needle bearings behind it?
2) this SC came fresh off the sellers truck, and he said it runs great and very quietly but is nearly due for a rebuild based on mileage (just under 100k according to him). In light of this, and given that I am not a high-mileage driver (work from home and in warm weather ride a motorcycle most of the time), should I perhaps just slap this thing on and give it a go without messing with the rotor ass'y or needle bearings behind it, for now? It sounds like, after the first install, removing or reinstalling it isnt terribly much of a hassle? The oil did stink horribly, so I could just do the nosecone rebuild, since i already have it off, and put new oil in it, and then install it and see how she runs.... thoughts?

FWIW, my motor is a factory refurb (v6) that i've only put about 7k miles on. Auto trans.

 

PM and we can talk on the phone

 

So, does anyone regret slapping a supercharger on their truck?
I'm thinking of picking up a new SC and 7th injector from URD, but I'm still a bit hesitant.
I'm mostly worried about reliability since I'll be going to some pretty remote places. Of course, I'll be keeping up with the proper maintenance.
Do I really have anything to worry about?

 

I saw on another thread your truck has 95,000 miles. It should be good.

Just make sure your relevant fluids and filters are fresh.
Maybe do a compression test.
If you have an automatic transmission consider adding an additional transmission cooler too.

Edit: I put my SC in at 248,000 miles. Sinc then I’ve gone from the SF Bay Area to Baja and back then New Mexico and back and Just finished a 31 day trip through all the states that border Nevada. Most of it was super remote. Remote enough I used my 19 gallon auxiliary fuel tank a whole lot.
The supercharger was never a concern for me. But that’s just me, right?

 

Thanks for the tips. I've heard nothing but good things from those who have one.
Are there any other brands to consider besides URD? They seem to include the most parts in their kit.

 

Alot of people have problems getting the tune done correctly tho

 

I was starting to notice a bearing "growl" noise coming from my black 2nd gen SC, so I pulled the nose cone off and rebuilt it with new bearings and the seal. Put it back together and am still getting a pretty good growl especially as the RPMs increase. I guess I need to pull it back apart and do the back needle bearings huh?
Are those two bearings the only others in there? It seems theres got to be some bearings at the front of the rotors, no?

 

You need to replace ALL the bearings,
Nose,
Rotor pack bearings
Needle bearings,
The rotor pack bearings are the hardest and you probably will need to time the rotors after replacing them

 

which ones are the "rotor pack bearings" ?