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3.4l TRD Supercharger rebuild

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas' started by SupraT, Mar 10, 2013.

  1. Mar 21, 2014 at 12:58 PM
    #121
    gray223

    gray223 Well-Known Member

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    Illinois - Missouri
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    96 tacoma reg cab 4x4 2.7l
    custom bumper
    I hardly get that in my 2.7!
     
  2. Mar 21, 2014 at 1:01 PM
    #122
    rctoy

    rctoy It's about to get real!!!

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    konstantenos
    Pocatello Idaho
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    First gen 4door monster in progress
    TRD super charger, URD fuel mods and 2.1 super grip pully, Headers, 2.5" glass pack, Dana 60 front 4 linked, 14bolt rears on chev 63's, 5.38 gears, ARB locker in the front, PSC full hydraulic steering, 18" SAW 2.5" triple rate coils overs, FOA 2.5 air bumps, B&M launch controls, B&M trans cooler, 4 alpine 6X8 type R's amped, Red led rock lights, CBI front and rear bumpers (my design) CBI sliders, 4 riggid dualys front 2 in the rear, custom track bar, ARB snorkle, warn VR8000 winch, Viair 480c twin compressers..
    I dont get much better on the free way though. i can do 100mph but not get any better millage.
     
  3. Mar 22, 2014 at 11:11 AM
    #123
    SupraT

    SupraT [OP] Tacoma Lover

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    Tony
    Columbia Falls
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    3" Lift Three leaf add and Bilstin 5100"s in back and Donahoe coilovers in front, Tinted Windows, Blackened parking light, tinted brake lights, clear bumper lights, Blacked out turn signals, AVS vent visors, Electric Fan mod, K&N CAI
    If your truck is running good when you install the SC you will only loose a mile per gallon, I just did a very complete tune up and I am running average 19mpg, I'm running 3 inch lift and 33x12.50's
     
  4. Mar 22, 2014 at 1:34 PM
    #124
    Darthyota

    Darthyota Well-Known Member

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    TRD s/c @ 9lbs, Unobtanium Welding 321SS Full Race Exhaust, B&M s/s, TRD 1st Gen CAI, sittin sic track ready drop, TSW Tanka's with 275/40/18's all the way around, 4300k hid's in headlights and fogs, with more to come
    You shouldnt drop at all but improve your milage provided you can keep your foot out of the skinny pedal
     
  5. Mar 22, 2014 at 7:02 PM
    #125
    SupraT

    SupraT [OP] Tacoma Lover

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    Don't know about you all, but I know the skinny all to well:)
     
  6. Mar 26, 2014 at 1:05 PM
    #126
    DJKlitz

    DJKlitz New Member

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    Very nice guide. This puts some insight into if I want to rebuild myself or not...
     
  7. Apr 4, 2014 at 12:22 PM
    #127
    SCRunner12

    SCRunner12 4runner Troll

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    Robert
    Santa Cruz, CA
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    Thanks for the write up! This will definitely help out with my rebuild I'm going to do. I had a question though. The above bold part is where I'm a bit confused. So you put the shaft back into the housing and what bearing are you beating the shaft through? The front bearing or the rear bearing closer to the back end of the shaft?

    I don't have access to a press and may go the same route as you with a punch. Thanks!
     
  8. Apr 4, 2014 at 3:39 PM
    #128
    rctoy

    rctoy It's about to get real!!!

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    konstantenos
    Pocatello Idaho
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    First gen 4door monster in progress
    TRD super charger, URD fuel mods and 2.1 super grip pully, Headers, 2.5" glass pack, Dana 60 front 4 linked, 14bolt rears on chev 63's, 5.38 gears, ARB locker in the front, PSC full hydraulic steering, 18" SAW 2.5" triple rate coils overs, FOA 2.5 air bumps, B&M launch controls, B&M trans cooler, 4 alpine 6X8 type R's amped, Red led rock lights, CBI front and rear bumpers (my design) CBI sliders, 4 riggid dualys front 2 in the rear, custom track bar, ARB snorkle, warn VR8000 winch, Viair 480c twin compressers..
    Yeah first time you hear that bad boy whine it's impossible to let out of it i think i got 8 MPG's my first take after the install.
     
  9. Apr 9, 2014 at 1:29 PM
    #129
    nigglewiggle60

    nigglewiggle60 Well-Known Member

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    Nigel
    Oakhurst, CA
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    2003 DC 4x4 TRD supercharged
    Supercharger, toolbox, seat covers, rubber mats.
    Can the rear needle bearings be replaced without removing the charger from the engine? I was thinking maybe shove a rag in the intake just in case the bearings are free.

    Also what about the needle bearings in the front of the rotors near the gears. Did you replace those too or did you just grease them more and decide to not change those?
     
  10. Apr 9, 2014 at 1:57 PM
    #130
    SDSam

    SDSam from Dirt bike to Dezert Couch

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    I honestly cant see how and or it would be so much hassle and risk, Its just not that hard to remove it and do it all on the bench. usually the front bearing wear first so "I" would either do the fronts only or all at once.
     
  11. Apr 10, 2014 at 9:48 AM
    #131
    nigglewiggle60

    nigglewiggle60 Well-Known Member

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    Supercharger, toolbox, seat covers, rubber mats.
    Are the front and rear bearings holding the rotors the same?
     
  12. Apr 29, 2014 at 12:07 PM
    #132
    SCRunner12

    SCRunner12 4runner Troll

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    Has anyone replaced the rotor pack bearings and seals? If so, where did you get the seals at?
     
  13. Apr 29, 2014 at 12:38 PM
    #133
    Darthyota

    Darthyota Well-Known Member

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    stiegemeier can get them if they don't have them in stock. they also offer rebuilds and much more
     
  14. Apr 29, 2014 at 1:07 PM
    #134
    SCRunner12

    SCRunner12 4runner Troll

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    Thanks, I emailed them.
     
  15. May 4, 2014 at 11:03 AM
    #135
    SupraT

    SupraT [OP] Tacoma Lover

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    3" Lift Three leaf add and Bilstin 5100"s in back and Donahoe coilovers in front, Tinted Windows, Blackened parking light, tinted brake lights, clear bumper lights, Blacked out turn signals, AVS vent visors, Electric Fan mod, K&N CAI
    Or jonbond.com, they have everything you need to do a complete rebuild
     
  16. Jun 25, 2014 at 7:37 AM
    #136
    mudthedoor

    mudthedoor Sconnie

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    https://jonbondperformance.com/

    Lol the other was a stationary blog lol
     
  17. Jul 27, 2014 at 3:52 PM
    #137
    Maineiac Mike

    Maineiac Mike Member

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    4" body lift, Rhino-Lined bed
    Hey All,
    Just bought a '99 Tacoma with 216,000 miles on it, and it sounds like the supercharger needs a rebuild bad. I have been told by two of my mechanic buds that I probably shouldn't drive it until I rebuild it. After reading through this forum, I believe that I have the first gen charger (it is silver, and the part # on the sticker is 00602-17620-001). Wondering if the parts on rollingperformance will fit it, since the rebuild pictured was a second gen charger. Hoping it doesn't need more than an oil change/bearings/gaskets shown in the rebuild, but thinking it might. Is there any way to tell before I open it up? You can feel vibration if you rest your hand on top of the charger, not real bad but definitely there. Also making noise that sounds almost like a diesel. Not nearly as loud, but you can hear it in the cab if you're sitting still with all the accessories off. Please help! I need to get this thing driveable ASAP so I can sell my Corolla and be making only one car payment.

    image.jpg
     
  18. Jul 28, 2014 at 5:39 AM
    #138
    CrunchyTaco99

    CrunchyTaco99 Well-Known Member

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    Joe
    North Georgia
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    99 TRD Tacoma
    33x12.50 Pro Comp M/T's All-Pro Coils, UCA and 3" leafs.
    Any idea how long the supercharger has been on there?

    Not sure if parts are interchangeable between first and second gen.

    I can feel the rotors spinning in mine. It is not horrible bit noticeable. You should feel something as the way the rotors mesh together in this supercharger is not completely smooth at idle. You get kind of a rattle sound until you rev it. My understanding is that the rotors are "straight cut" and have a loose tolerance. I may be absolutely wrong but I read that somewhere.

    It would be safe to assume it needs a rebuild if has been on there for more than a 100k miles.
     
  19. Jul 28, 2014 at 5:43 AM
    #139
    CrunchyTaco99

    CrunchyTaco99 Well-Known Member

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    33x12.50 Pro Comp M/T's All-Pro Coils, UCA and 3" leafs.
    Any of you that have pulled your rotors found the Teflon coating worn?

    I have 110k miles on mine. I about to pull it off one truck to put on another and plan to rebuild it first. I put a new nose cone on it 20k miles ago so I am gonna leave that alone. Plan on replacing the rear bearing, replacing the nose cone oil, and checking the rotors. Looked a couple of times at sending it off to get checked but was told the same thing as the OP, anywhere from $300 to $1200 if the rotors were worn. So wondering if any of you have actually seen significant wear on the rotors?

    Thanks.
     
  20. Jul 28, 2014 at 6:46 AM
    #140
    Maineiac Mike

    Maineiac Mike Member

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    4" body lift, Rhino-Lined bed
    I am not sure how long the s/c has been installed. The dealer I got it from bought it at auction and there is no paperwork to go with it. I am going through the whole truck to be safe. S/C rebuild, flushing and changing all fluids, replacing timing belt, the whole shabang. I'm not taking any chances because this is going to be my daily driver for quite some time. The frame and body are completely rust free, which is unheard of where I live. I emailed the guys at rollingperformance this morning, I will post any useful info I get. Thanks for the info though, I feel a bit better about the noise level
     
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