1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

3.4L TRD Supercharger rebuild

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by SupraT, Mar 10, 2013.

  1. Sep 2, 2014 at 3:00 PM
    #161
    CrunchyTaco99

    CrunchyTaco99 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2010
    Member:
    #34396
    Messages:
    360
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Joe
    North Georgia
    Vehicle:
    99 TRD Tacoma
    33x12.50 Pro Comp M/T's All-Pro Coils, UCA and 3" leafs.
    Still kinda confused. Are the front bearings in the snout or the housing? I have a need snout assembly so wondering if there are bearings that I need to replace in the front?
     
  2. Sep 2, 2014 at 3:26 PM
    #162
    TashcomerTexas

    TashcomerTexas My truck is a whiner

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2014
    Member:
    #127853
    Messages:
    10,104
    Vehicle:
    2003 TRD DC King Ranch Edition
    Thanks for the heads up, yeah send it whenever you can. Appreciated
     
  3. Sep 2, 2014 at 4:56 PM
    #163
    SCRunner12

    SCRunner12 Tundra Troll

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2011
    Member:
    #61363
    Messages:
    9,109
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Robert
    Santa Cruz, CA
    Vehicle:
    2006 Tundra DC, TRD, 4wd
    The front bearings are in the snout, which are the part numbers I gave above. What gen do you have 1st (tan/gray) or 4th (black)? The 1st gens don't have a factory nose cone replacement anymore so you have to replace them yourself or have someone do it. The black SC's have a factory replacement that you can get through Toyota still and takes about 1-1.5 hour total to replace (less if you don't remove the SC off the truck).

    A supercharger consists of 6 bearings total. 2 in the snout or nose cone, 2 between the rotors and rotor plate (6203 Nachi C3 Open) and two rear needle bearings which the ends of the rotors go into. Most people are able to replace the nose cone bearings, seal and phelonic drive adapter and be good for a long time, but some need the rear needle bearings and rotor bearings replaced. Just depends on the SC and condition of the bearings.

    I was running the static (old style) tensioner plate for 6+ months and no issues at all. It's a pain to tighten the belt correctly, but never had any slipping. I have the dynamic now and it is worry free and nice not to mess with the alternator adjustments anymore though. If you don't feel like spending the money now, just go with the static and upgrade when you have the extra cash. It won't hurt the SC to use the old style at all.
     
  4. Sep 2, 2014 at 5:46 PM
    #164
    CrunchyTaco99

    CrunchyTaco99 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2010
    Member:
    #34396
    Messages:
    360
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Joe
    North Georgia
    Vehicle:
    99 TRD Tacoma
    33x12.50 Pro Comp M/T's All-Pro Coils, UCA and 3" leafs.
    Found a thread a couple of years ago that had a tensioner for $48. Had to buy a $10 pulley to change out. Has worked great so far. Try searching, no clue where I had found it.
     
  5. Sep 2, 2014 at 5:48 PM
    #165
    CrunchyTaco99

    CrunchyTaco99 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2010
    Member:
    #34396
    Messages:
    360
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Joe
    North Georgia
    Vehicle:
    99 TRD Tacoma
    33x12.50 Pro Comp M/T's All-Pro Coils, UCA and 3" leafs.
    I have the 4th gen. Already bought and replaced the nose cone last year. Was just wondering if I really needed to replace other bearings or if I could slide for a while. Thanks!
     
  6. Sep 2, 2014 at 5:53 PM
    #166
    TashcomerTexas

    TashcomerTexas My truck is a whiner

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2014
    Member:
    #127853
    Messages:
    10,104
    Vehicle:
    2003 TRD DC King Ranch Edition
    Thanks for the info too, although I'm like a good portion of people who like to get it all done "right" the first time. I can wait, if it means putting in another $250 into it worry free then I don't mind.
     
  7. Sep 2, 2014 at 5:56 PM
    #167
    CrunchyTaco99

    CrunchyTaco99 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2010
    Member:
    #34396
    Messages:
    360
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Joe
    North Georgia
    Vehicle:
    99 TRD Tacoma
    33x12.50 Pro Comp M/T's All-Pro Coils, UCA and 3" leafs.
  8. Sep 2, 2014 at 6:06 PM
    #168
    SCRunner12

    SCRunner12 Tundra Troll

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2011
    Member:
    #61363
    Messages:
    9,109
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Robert
    Santa Cruz, CA
    Vehicle:
    2006 Tundra DC, TRD, 4wd
    Watch out for Shellyshel90 or something like that. He said he had a tensioner bracket available, had me pay, then gave me the run around for the next 5 weeks before saying he didn't have any or any means to get more.

    If you're not hearing anything abnormal then you should be good.

    Hmm, haven't seen the two pulley one, but my one pulley worked great.

    Yeah if you can swing it then go for it. I never cared to dump $250 into something that worked already, but the dynamic tensioner is better in the long run.
     
  9. Sep 2, 2014 at 6:21 PM
    #169
    CrunchyTaco99

    CrunchyTaco99 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2010
    Member:
    #34396
    Messages:
    360
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Joe
    North Georgia
    Vehicle:
    99 TRD Tacoma
    33x12.50 Pro Comp M/T's All-Pro Coils, UCA and 3" leafs.
    The bracket is very simple. Mine is currently off. I could get some measurements if you like so you could make it yourself or take it to a fabricator. If you get someone else to do it then it may not be cheaper than just buying the whole kit from Toyota.
     
  10. Sep 2, 2014 at 8:58 PM
    #170
    SCRunner12

    SCRunner12 Tundra Troll

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2011
    Member:
    #61363
    Messages:
    9,109
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Robert
    Santa Cruz, CA
    Vehicle:
    2006 Tundra DC, TRD, 4wd
    Yeah I was talking to that guy about that one but when he said he was keeping the tensioner I lost interest. Not a bad price at all though. I got a 4th gen sc with the dynamic tensioner for $725 recently and so far it doesn't need a rebuild yet.
     
  11. Sep 19, 2014 at 9:24 AM
    #171
    Tacomaki

    Tacomaki Member

    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2008
    Member:
    #8868
    Messages:
    21
    KY...of Course
    Vehicle:
    SR5
    Rear LSD King Coil-overs Front OME Dakar/Bilstein 5100s Rear.
    Is there another source for the rear rotor bearings? How do you know these bearings need to be replaced?
     
  12. Sep 19, 2014 at 10:11 AM
    #172
    rctoy

    rctoy It's about to get real!!!

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2012
    Member:
    #72789
    Messages:
    6,956
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    konstantenos
    Pocatello Idaho
    Vehicle:
    First gen 4door monster in progress
    TRD super charger, URD fuel mods and 2.1 super grip pully, Headers, 2.5" glass pack, Dana 60 front 4 linked, 14bolt rears on chev 63's, 5.38 gears, ARB locker in the front, PSC full hydraulic steering, 18" SAW 2.5" triple rate coils overs, FOA 2.5 air bumps, B&M launch controls, B&M trans cooler, 4 alpine 6X8 type R's amped, Red led rock lights, CBI front and rear bumpers (my design) CBI sliders, 4 riggid dualys front 2 in the rear, custom track bar, ARB snorkle, warn VR8000 winch, Viair 480c twin compressers..
    I think I need to replace that coupler in mine after only 30K miles starting to make noise at idle in gear.
     
  13. Sep 19, 2014 at 12:23 PM
    #173
    SDSam

    SDSam from Dirt bike to Dezert Couch

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2012
    Member:
    #80249
    Messages:
    690
    Gender:
    Male
    San Diego
    Vehicle:
    00 Tacoma prerunner
    Icon Shocks, BTF front, Deaver f67, 33's on stocks, Fiberwerxs 1pc, TDR S/C, Bed & Eng Caged
    When I took mine apart I pulled out the rotors carefully and the rear bearing grease was still nice thick and blue the needles looked smooth and un-burnt So i left them be.

    I bought parts from this place.
    http://www.darossi.com/supercharger-store/index.php
     
  14. Jan 10, 2015 at 6:06 PM
    #174
    trdm62

    trdm62 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2015
    Member:
    #146043
    Messages:
    18
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Justin
    Vehicle:
    01 dc limited
    Trd supercharger, Trd cat back
    Dose anyone who has rebuilt there nose drive,have the part number for the nose cone seal. I had replaced the nose drive and coupler 2 years ago and now it's leaking. Only because I took it off do to the fact I didn't have the 7th injector kit. I'm assuming it's a skf double lip seal . Any help is greatly appreciated.
     
  15. Jan 10, 2015 at 6:28 PM
    #175
    SCRunner12

    SCRunner12 Tundra Troll

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2011
    Member:
    #61363
    Messages:
    9,109
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Robert
    Santa Cruz, CA
    Vehicle:
    2006 Tundra DC, TRD, 4wd
  16. Jan 10, 2015 at 6:36 PM
    #176
    trdm62

    trdm62 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2015
    Member:
    #146043
    Messages:
    18
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Justin
    Vehicle:
    01 dc limited
    Trd supercharger, Trd cat back
    Thanks for the quick response SCrunner12. I've just check out the link you posted. The prices on their website are very reasonable. I'll have to get me a seal this week, so I can get the charger ready to go back on. Then I have to is get the urd kit.
     
  17. Jan 10, 2015 at 6:46 PM
    #177
    SCRunner12

    SCRunner12 Tundra Troll

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2011
    Member:
    #61363
    Messages:
    9,109
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Robert
    Santa Cruz, CA
    Vehicle:
    2006 Tundra DC, TRD, 4wd
    No worries, I've looked for cheaper solutions but rolling performance is your best bet.
     
  18. Jan 10, 2015 at 7:01 PM
    #178
    trdm62

    trdm62 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2015
    Member:
    #146043
    Messages:
    18
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Justin
    Vehicle:
    01 dc limited
    Trd supercharger, Trd cat back
    Yeah I have also tried to find cheaper solution but with no luck. The only I haven't found on this topic of supercharger rebuild is that if possible can just replace the front seal without disassembling the nose cone. Cause the nose drive I replaced only has about 4000 miles on it .
     
  19. Jan 10, 2015 at 7:29 PM
    #179
    SCRunner12

    SCRunner12 Tundra Troll

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2011
    Member:
    #61363
    Messages:
    9,109
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Robert
    Santa Cruz, CA
    Vehicle:
    2006 Tundra DC, TRD, 4wd
    Definitely is possible. Remove the nose cone from the sc. Remove the pulley, then snap ring and remove the seal. Depending on the type of seal you can just cut or punch a hole and remove. Then just put the new one on.
     
  20. Jan 10, 2015 at 7:37 PM
    #180
    trdm62

    trdm62 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2015
    Member:
    #146043
    Messages:
    18
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Justin
    Vehicle:
    01 dc limited
    Trd supercharger, Trd cat back
    Thanks SCrunner12, looks like I'm going to have some fun next week getting the supercharger ready. If I can remember I'll post a short write up of the repair with pictures.
     

Products Discussed in

To Top