30,000 mile service costs $1,100???

Just because Mobil produces Toyota's oil doesn't in any way mean the formulation they use for the Toyota branded oil is the same as what you get in a Mobil 1 branded oil (it doesn't mean they're different either). Just saying.

 

What's next... reviving an OCI thread from circa 2018?

 

I'm at 26K miles and my 2021 Sport will be 3 years under my ownership in May 2024.

The dealership I take her to in Dover, DE is fantastic and doesn't push any maintenance without solid explanation by experienced Service Rep.

I do my own oil changes but as far as the other fluids, I'll have the dealership do them--personal reason.

Oh, and thanks for the bump of this "almost" 2 year old thread. lol

 

Dude “harsh conditions” are standard driving for most, if not all of us. Look at Toyotas harsh conditions definition. It’s laughable

 

I should have included the Note 3 for “Special Driving Conditions” which states
“Perform these service items only if you drive primarily under the conditions indicated.”
If you drive primarily under the listed conditions then do the listed items. If not no need to. Whether it’s “most” of us is speculative, only the individual drivers will know. It’s certainly not “all” or even “most” driving primarily in those conditions for the Tacomas I see in my area, your mileage may vary …dude.

 

newbie needs that post count for the classifieds, or a bot as mentioned

 

Please be a bot. Please, please, please! An oil change head that can suck 13q lickety split. Just what a long haul trucker needs to keep those wheels a turnin’

 

Alrighty, then we'll all meet back here next Friday. And watch the hilarity ensue...

 

Regardless, it’s comical

 

Maybe, but at least I post the facts and info. as opposed to your over the top misleading reaction lol

 

You definitely want to change your diffs at 30k.

 

Or what? How many diffs have failed on here?

 

Hey you can do whatever you want. But if you don't want your diff oil to come out like mud it's best to change it. Same with your engine oil. It's much cheaper to change the fluids than the parts.

 

This is bad advice. Glazed rotors will absolutely fade quickly, and brake pads won't adhere or break in to them well at all. Furthermore, any scoring or rust on the rotor (they live a tough life) detracts from brake performance.

True.... But they're the same.


Or so we're told. By Toyota. So who knows

 

If a rotor is scored, replace it; resurfacing it will degrade performance too much.

If a rotor is heavily rusted, replace it; there is no way to recondition a heavily rusted rotor.

Unless a rotor has been used in a severe environment, the odds of it being glazed are pretty low; if not glazed (or scored or rusted or has a "hot spot"...), then it is a viable option to simply slap new pads on. That said, when I do my brakes, I always replace the rotors with high-end Centric rotors which are treated in such a way to almost completely eliminate rusting.

 

Even a good looking rotor can have a concave surface to it, like a skateboard deck. Especially German cars, the rotors wear out almost as fast as the pads for some reason.

Putting a new pad against a old rotor doesn't guarantee you'll have problems (I've pad slapped my own vehicles before) but it certainly opens the door to squeaks and vibes

I always give customers the choice, but I tell them I can't fully warranty the job unless pads and rotors go on as a set.

 

With all due respect.... You are wrong. And because brakes are a big safety item, I'm calling you on it.

Rotors have a minimum serviceable thickness, it's literally marked into the edge of the disk. If you don't resurface below the minimum resurface thickness, and you get a good cut (not hard to do if you're not a hack) a resurfaced rotor will far outperform an old rotor with new pads.

Glazing happens from usage. The harder it's used, the worse the glazing can get. Still worse than a resurface.

The only thing you said that isn't wrong is to replace if a rotor shows a "hot spot". (Also hard spotting).

Edit: Ok, heavily rusted is fair... At that point, check everything.

 

Thanks that is what I was going to tell him. The only service needed to keep your warranty is what is in the owner's service manual. All the other stuff is only recommended and a rip off.

 

And even for warranty..... Other than oil changes, you've got a huge window to work with.

And even then , should be doing oil every 5k, warranty requires every 10k

 

It's hard for people to visualize this.

I will attempt with MS Paint.



If I dont get 10 likes for this, a baby dolphin will drown in a local marina

ANGRY EDIT:

YOU CANT LIKE YOUR OWN POSTS ON HERE?! WTF