32's vs 33's & 4.56 vs 4.88

Yup did the full exhaust did was stock with 180k on it and needed it bad! That's a good price, wonder what they would charge for the rear as well..

Here's some pics....

 

Exhaust came out sic! I'm pretty close to that to... 174k on mine. I'm debating on doing the entire exhaust or the header and cat then build my own catback. I'm mostly concerned with the noise levels at hwy speeds now that I'm running 3200rpm on the freeway. So I though about doing an exhaust with a large/quitter muffler on it. How long is the muffler that comes with that setup?

I think the front diff from ECGS is $75 more than the front with the option of doing a solid spacer for another $45. Same deal with the shipping. I lucked out and got a deal from another member on here that saved me a little over $200 on the rear 3rd.

 

That's awesome, the muffler was off LCE site but it's a little loud. What speed are you doing when your turning over 3200k?

 

That's at 75mph. I was talking to one of the guys at LCE just now and I think I'll end up going with the header and cat and see if I can fab a custom catback with a quieter muffler. Thanks for the info!

 

Before I reply, thank you for your service.

I have the 2.7 & auto trans, only a regular cab so much less weight than you're dragging around.
When I had 32's, I had 4.88's and it was the perfect ration. To correct the speedo, I used the Dakota Digital setup. Works killer.
Now that I have 33's, I went with the 5.29 Yukon gear. Again, killer performance for this combo. I turn 3K rpm's @ 70mph. I am in the power band at all times on the freeway and while in town, I turn off the OD which again, keeps me in the power band.

Good luck and thanks again.

 

Thanks !!!!!

 

Since you have both of the things im wanting, should I go 33x12.50s (probably stt pro's) or turbo setup...

Also
How much did you trim for the 12.50s? Wondering what ill be in for.

 

What gearing do you currently have? I wouldn't run 33's on a 2.7 with less than 4.30's, with 4.56 being more of the minimum IMO. Now that i turbo'd my truck, I think 4.56 with 33's (maybe even 4.30) would be more appropriate than my 4.88's. But when i was all motor with the 33's, the 4.88's seemed minimum to me at the 5000ft alt i live at. Now with the turbo, it wraps out the first couple gears pretty quick and I usually don't get much spool in 1st gear. When I first bought my truck it had a spacer lift with 285's and 3.91 gears. It was ok around town but way slow on the HWY especially going up hills.

Here's a pic of the trimming I did. I trimmed the lower corner of the pinch weld and a bit of the bottom of the fender. Also, i cut a small slice into the top of the pinch weld and bent it flat with a rubber mallet. Sprayed over it with rubberized undercoating and it's been good so far. Most of the offroading I do, I'm not fully stuffing the tire so I can't say for sure if it would rub at full stuff. It has not rubbed though so far for anything that i have done with the truck since then.


Whether you should go Turbo or 33's will depend on what you use your truck for and what you want more out of it right now. If you're getting enough ground clearance with your current set up, then you may not need 33's right away. If you feel like your truck is lacking in power for what you do with it, forced induction may be more the way to go. IDK what your experience is with forced induction vehicles, but just keep in mind that a turbo set up is much more involved than tires and gears. Some can be done so that they are mostly just bolt on parts, but many vehicles can respond differently to the turbo charging and may need certain bugs to to worked out once up and running. Let me know if you have other questions, I'll be glad to answer the best that i can.

 

Thanks man, I've actually got 4.30s now. I do pull a trailer every now and then so probably go turbo. Not really hitting trails much and probaby won't be for a while but I also don't want to slow the truck down. So, sounds like turbo it is.

 

Nice! LMK if you have any questions about the turbo set up

 

We'll, you're running 7 psi right?

What kind of electronics do you have for that. I'm thinking of removing cat and adding cat simulator from lce.
Then maf calibrator from lce...
All I've got so far...

 

Right now i just have pink top injectors (325cc) with the stock ECU, walboro 190, and a boost referenced stock FPR. I'm looking at going to a Megasquirt 3 with the MS3X expansion and running 550cc injectors. It runs pretty smooth right now, but the stock ecu delays it switching into open loop which keeps the AFR's a little high. I looked into piggybacks like AEM FIC and MAPECU3, but from talking with others that have used them, it seems that they still have that issue to some extent. The MS3 will give full fuel and timing control which will be more work to tune but should yield better results. If you go with a MAF calibrator, read Gadget's Utune guide. It will help out a ton with set up your fuel maps.

 

What's the difference from the walboro 190 and 255...I'm thinking 550cc injectors to but I'm wanting like 350-400hp at some point.

Is the maf calibrator worth it? Don't know much about the electric side of turbos...

 

I am not sure how much the HP ratings are different between the two pumps. I used a 190 simply b/c i had it left over from a S/C 5vz I used to have. If i was buying a pump, I'd probably just do the 255 or even the AEM pump that Brice used in his turbo 5vz build. I've read that one is quieter than the Walbro. I'm not shooting for a ton of HP, 250-300 at the wheels. If you're planning on going to 350+, I would honestly just go to a Stand Alone right away when you decide you need to control your fuel management. Many run 5-6psi safely on stock completely stock fuel. You can run up to 7-8psi on the stock ECU with pinks (that i think your truck should already have being a 01-04). Then when you want to tune for more boost/power go with a MS3, Haltech 500, or even a 1000 if you need those capabilities.

I was going to go with a MAPECU3 but for the cost I'd rather get a MS3 that has total fuel control in both open and closed loop. THis is just my opinion though, so don't take it as truth. I've basing my thoughts from talking with other guys on here and CT about their set ups and their experiences.

Check out Kurt's build on CT. Page 7 is where he converts from map3 to MS3.
http://www.customtacos.com/forum/94-build-threads/163041-2002-tacoma-3rz-turbo-build-7.html

Also check out this site for more info on the turbo 2/3rz with the MS3:
http://www.2rzturbo.net/

 

Thanks man, I'll take your opinion. You seem to know way more than me on turbos.

 

No problem. LMK if you have other questions. I may have some for you later on as well

 

Will do man, thanks for the help

 

Should've asked about this to.

Turbo brand and size...I read I need a t3 with 52mm inducer, 58-60 exducer, and .6x or larger housing

Also, a 38mm wastegate should be good right?

 

I had looked into Borg warner...S252 I think. It was a little pricey for me though so i went with a Precision. You could also look at turbonetics, and garret as well. Do you know if you wanted a BB or journal bearing?

 

BB are pretty expensive so I'd probably go journal....if I'm correct.