3D Printing

I’m sure it could be done, but for less than 2.50, that’s the hard part. By the time you design and print it and refine the design... I don’t know what your time is worth, but it’s hard to argue with that price.

 

2.50 plus $5 shipping. Would rather buy from a member if someone already had it designed.

$5 plus a stamp on an envelope would seem reasonable to me, but I’m not a printer guy?

 

Needed to design and build a table for class. Wanted a good way to attach rods at the perfect angle. Whipped up some mounts and printed them.

 

I started to get into 3D printing several years ago when my library handed out access pretty easily.

Fast forward to now where I'm doing research alloying Tungsten and Rhenium for hypersonics. Gotta say, the plastics are a lot more fun!

Nonetheless, here's a fancy metal printer we use...


Just to make these stupid little cylinders...

 

I still use my 2 FDM and 1 Resin printer to make nerd stuff....

 

Question for you gentlemen, I needed a reducer for a light mount to be able to grip the bar on my motorcycle, drew one up in blender, printed it, and it turned out decent for the first print (I’m going to tweak the design to fit better and then look into selling them).
My question is, I printed it at 45% infill, should I go higher for this use case?
I heard the PLA creak a little as I torqued it down but it’s holding strong and not slipping.

 

what is your wall line count?....from what I can see, maybe 4 or 5? I know with 2A prints, you go at least 6-8 for strength and then you do 99-100% infill...makes it really strong, you might be able to go a lil less on the infill. Print orientation might make a difference too. Remember, PLA will soften a bit in heat, so if it sets out in the sun it may warp.

 

wall line count is 2 and thickness is .8mm
I haven’t played around with those settings yet!

Im going to adjust some dimensions and try re-printing and I’ll thicken up the walls and probably bump infill to 80% or so.

 

Another question, please forgive my ignorance.
When I import this file and slice it, why does it only put a raft on one part and not the other?

 

I would guess that one part sits below the other on the z axis. If they are identical, just import one and duplicate or mirror it in the slicer.

As far as strength and design for clamping, have you tried TPU filament, or heating the PLA in hot water before compressing? TPU is flexible, and heating pla will allow it to flex into shape. You could also try designing with internal ribbing arrayed from the center point to add compression strength.

 

I thought about that this evening, likely what it was, I just removed the one and re-exported the file and duplicated it in the slicer.

I haven’t tried other filaments yet, as of now I only have PLA but I’m open to ordering something different to try it.
I’ll have to look into TPU, I think the PLA is too brittle for my sloppy design as I noticed today that the V1 prints have cracked, that could also be the infill level though.
I like the idea of putting the PLA in hot water, if nothing else I could measure better off of the printed part I think.

I appreciate the advice, I’m leaving on a work trip in a few hours so I’ll try to make some time to research while I’m gone and attach again Wednesday or Thursday.

 

Can confirm, TPU is a game changer. Printed on a mostly stock Ender 3.

 

Good stuff, and luckily it's got decent fuel resistance

 

Oh, definitely. I have yet to see fuel degrade this stuff in any way. It's pretty tolerant to temperature fluctuations as well.

 

We have been printing shoe soles in TPU the last year or so. Once you have the settings down, it pretty fantastic to print with.