3rd gen jack points

Recalling a jackstand… yikes

 

Here’s a good jackstand test.

https://youtu.be/T6ufAL5R0mg

Also you guys that go full float during a tire rotation are nuts. Or really full float in general. I don’t like being under my truck when the front or rear is on stands. Full float no chance.

 

So, that YouTube video....WTH!...I have those Daytonas for routine jobs. Am I safe in believing that unless I come barreling at it from the sides and ends, I can still survive tire rotations and oil changes?!

 

At first glance the side impacts might seem stupid but imagine being under the truck and trying to loosen u bolts or some other stuck bolt. You are going to side forces depending on how you are wrenching. So yeah, side to side stability is important.

 

These HF stands look doable and are adjustable high enough for most trucks I'll wait til they go on sale to try..

 

Same. I run 6 tons for front, 3 tons for rear. All of my stands are cheap double-locks. I'd trust those over a brand-name stand that relies on its pawl as the only point of failure.

 

I only used blocking to prevent the jackstands from sinking in/cutting in to the asphalt of my driveway. It was summertime in one of the pictures and the asphalt was soft.

I will use larger pieces of wood next time though. I didn't have an issue with the 2x4's and patio bricks that I used previously, but will be more selective next time.

 

I stuck it on the transmission cross member, but will never do that again as i felt it was to far back, but it got the job done.

 

Can I use a floor jack on the location, not a bottle jack?

I am going to replace my bump stops and want to lift the truck up and do them both at once.
Any place I can put jack stands under the truck, in the front after lifting it up for safety?

 

I only use my floor jack on that spot. I lift the front first and place my 6-ton stands on the frame rails just behind the wheel and next to the braces that lead to the transmission crossmember. (Its possible to use 3-ton stands there, but they barely reach at their highest setting, I have found.) Lower it on the stands but only lower the jack so that there is 1/2" of air between it and the lift point, give everything a test shake, then start the process of putting the rear axle on stands.

 

Oh I plan on dong the front , then the back, i don't want to chance the whole vehicle on jack stands I would be screwed if it fell over in any way.
just the front first them the back.
I'm going to use the Perry auto parts front and rear bump stops. Now i just need a decent set of jack stands that are 6 ton, all i have are 3 ton. Probably the Husky brand from Home depot.

 

So this appears to be the front jacking spot referenced in this thread. This is Driver's side, right in front of the "transmission crossmember." I think. Am I in the right place?

What the heck is this plastic tab right where the jack stand would go? There's one on the other side, too. But it's half broken, I assume from being put on a lift at the dealer. Do I just rip it out?

I'd already bought 3 ton harbor freight jack stands. I think they'll be fine on the rear axle. I'm going to get 6 ton stands for the front. If I'm working under it I'm going to leave the wheels on (I just need a bit of "breathing" room so I can use a creeper). I feel like if it goes south the worst thing that happens is it lands on the tires? Not sure how much suspension travel there'd be in such a situation or if I'd be squished.

When I'm done with the oil I can go straight into removing the tires and rotating them.

Is this a terrible idea? Anyone else use jack stands just for more room underneath?

 

Your picture is a little too close up to say for sure but if my memory serves the support point is on the other side of the crossmember (a little behind where the back of the front tires would be, where the frame straightens out).

The plastic piece is just a plug for a hole in the frame that is supposed to allow water to come out and not in. I believe there are slight plastic lips / clips so you kind of pry it out gently and it should pop back in. Either way, if you are undercoating / rust protecting your truck, or if you don't live in the rust belt, it doesn't really matter much if you leave it in or not. The jack should definitely not be going where that plastic piece is regardless.

3 Ton stands support 6000 lbs (EACH STAND) and are more than enough to support the front of the truck. I get the fear of being squished, I hate being under any vehicle on jack stands even with all the proper precautions done... With tires still on you should be fine regardless, just make sure you do the shake test before doing any work (after vehicle is fully on the jack stands, go to every corner of the vehicle and give it several forceful pushes to make sure it doesn't shift / move).

Personally for just oil changes I just use the front wheel ramp things, as part of my driveway is on a bit of an angle it works perfectly to make the truck level and give good clearance for doing the oil change easily. Comes close to overfilling my drainage pan though.

I do undercoating / rust proofing every autumn and usually jack up then use jack stands on the front, do the spray, then put the front down, jack up the rear and put on jack stands, do the spray, let it down, etc. As long as you take the proper precautions, make sure of your jack/support points, do the push test, you should be fine, especially leaving the tires on....

I was under my other car earlier this year taking out the front driver's side axle shaft (among many other things) and the brake disc was right over me, unsettling to say the least but without any external input of energy there's basically no way anything could/would happen outside of an act of god, some complete freak accident (garage collapsing) or an earthquake. I don't know how people in earth quake zones do this kind of thing to be honest.


EDIT: Upon further reflection I went outside to take a picture. (PASSENGER SIDE for reference) This is where I've always put mine and have never had an issue.

 

Just to clarify, the vast majority of jack stands are rated per pair - not each.

 

Correct

All jack stands are rated as a pair, 6,000 pounds total, not per jack stand. Common misunderstanding that the rating is per jack stand, but read the fine print. This is for all jack stands of this style, not just these.

 

Supposedly that plastic piece provides air flow direction and helps keep dust out of your frame? Your open c channel frame.

 

Would be nice to jack entire front but the skid is in the way.
Has anyone modified their robust skid plates with some sch.80 tubing to enable using the frontmost jacking point? I have RCI aluminum skid plates and can weld.
Currently I have to jack front from each side way in near front doors. Where am I supposed to put the jack stands with the jack in the way?
I have also put stands under the lower control arms which are not parallel to ground and seem iffy.

Rear is easy- I jack from the center and put a stand under each side point.

 

TRD skid plate.

 

"Trd skid".. got the noun. Need a verb. Are you saying the TRD skid is set up to permit use of the front center jack point?

I have RCI skids and wonder if I can modify for this purpose.

Alternatively. I bought but have not installed a front hitch that bolts to either side of frame. Was going to copy its layout in aluminum square tube for a front lumber support that's much lighter. Don't need the actual hitch function.

Would a front hitch be usable as a center jack point if one ensures its fastened with appropriate diameter grade 8 bolts?

 

I've been lifting my truck with TRD skid attached at the front lifting point since 2020. It even has a well marked place for the jack.
So yes..