3rd Gen Tacoma 3.5L Twin Turbo Kit Improvements and Fixes

Red, are you manual or AT? Has Matt provided you a new tune since his latest update of stumbling from over fueling? You have the Power Max right? Do you have the FP controller already? Has been a long time since Matt has communicated any progress, and having locked down the OV chat!?

 

are you manual or AT?
my truck is Auto

Has Matt provided you a new tune since his latest update of stumbling from over fueling?

No he hasn’t. I still have the first file he sent out. but then again I haven’t got to that point when I started the install. Realized it would take longer for the weekend warrior, I’d need a 2nd vehicle since I daily this thing.

You have the Power Max right?
yes

Do you have the FP controller already?

Yes, I had purchased it from the beginning When upgrade was available and was shipped with the kit.

 

@RedLantern

Nice that you have the FP controller, It seems that there are not enough available for everyone waiting, to get one. Though i could not get Matt to directly answer this question. Unclear when that will be resolved.

Is likely, you know already, but can't be sure since Matt locked the thread.

Matt mentioned in an update, that the over-fuel problem is resolved with new tune and need for additional injectors. This was not clear to me, so I sent an email, reminding him that many of us already purchased injectors, waiting for our kits. Matt responded that the new tune needs both larger DI and PI. Most or all of us already purchased the DI injectors, so now that the over-fuel problem requires larger PI injectors, Matt is providing them to the Turbo Max buyers, with the new tune. He said something like, as an unexpected need for the PI injectors, that he will not stick us with that additional expense.

Just want to make sure you and others are aware.

I am really feeling left out, with the OVtune thread being locked, and shortage of updates.

Really can't wait for a few successful Max installs.

 

I was not aware about him providing new PI injectors to powermax owners. How the heck has he not emailed people with those kits this info? With this new information, I will most likely push back the install til things are fully ironed out. Moving forward will Cause unwanted problems like how some of the guys with the kit installed are already experiencing.

apparently the update to 1.6 in VFT will include those changes for fueling on the programming side too. I’ve even considered dumping this project and just going procharger. But we’ll see where things are by the end of the year.

 

This is the post that made me ask about the injectors; Line #3.:

 

Thanks. I’ll reach out to him about that.

 

I have had no response from him regarding my powermax kit. Very frustrated with this whole process. It seems he has plenty of time to release tunes for other vehicles. I'm just wondering why this hasn't been a priority since he's got our money in his pocket. Who else is waiting for a kit that paid?

 

Gents, this isn't the place. Please don't. Keep it technical please.

 

Anyone with upgraded direct injectors have pictures and can you tell me what Mark # they are?

Pulled my DI back out to check a spacing issue someone mentioned. I want to test a theory. I have Mark 9's and they slightly differ from my factory DI's. Would love to see someone's with Mark 1's or around there.

Another question: anyone with DI and pump fully installed with cold start issues. What is your DI mark #?

 

Texted you but will put it here too.

 

I have Mark 5’s. I can post pics if needed.

 

I think I figured it out. Far as I can tell, all versions of the Lexus direct injectors have 3 smaller spacers and a shim which causes the tip of the injector to sit 2mm higher in the cylinder than the Tacoma injectors. The Factory Service Manual lists these as vibration dampers. It's my theory that they have the additional spacers for either additional cylinder clearance on the Lexus, or just more vibration dampening. The appearance of the spacers having different material makeups suggests they may be cancelling out some kind of frequency or harmonics.

I don't believe this extra clearance will cause any issues with fueling. If anything it probably helps with atomization, but to be honest, I couldn't tell you anything with any certainty here. So I took the liberty of swapping the shims out so it would have the shorter ones, just to see what happens. I have no way to test this out at the moment, but if I see any notable difference I will let everyone know.

Here is what they look like. The top injector has the Toyota spacer, while the bottom injector has the Lexus spacers and shim. You can see how one will sit deeper than the other.

 

Interesting, and these are the Direct Injectors. Makes me wonder about a fairly new injection process, whereby using direct injection, and very specific chamber and piston shape; some manufacturers are increasing fuel economy by running EXTREMELY lean, but controlling emissions and preventing pinging, by igniting a small kernel of flame, and then controlling the flame by injecting specific amounts of fuel after ignition; a smaller flame burning longer.

If this applies to our trucks, then this seems (to me) to be VERY FUSSY timing and tuning. To such and extent that I would not be surprised if injector depth is also very specific, to successful control of the kernel.

I also wonder if this injector depth change and/or Kernel Flame Control; has anything to do with the TT fueling issues of over-fueling and skipping. And further wonder if TT tuning would be more successful, using stock DI's without table alterations, and use larger PI's to do all the additional fueling for the TT (with ONLY the PI's). Matt has expressed something along the lines of; that the Toyota fueling controls are a complete nightmare, like he has never seen before. This sort of supports that Toyota might be doing something unusual, that we do not completely understand. Could it be Lean Flame Kernel?

Can anyone confirm if these trucks are using a Flame Kernel technique? If so, it seems this would sometimes negate the O2 sensors, at least while running extremely lean.The sensor readings would not be useful feedback in the traditional sense. This would also produce scary lean readings to someone watching the AFR on a stock engine, and would require us to adjust our understanding, instead of adjusting fuel tables (for what may be engineered, intentional, lean burning conditions).

I have no confirmation that this applies to our trucks, so maybe I am all wet on this one, but I am installing an AFR gauge to my stock engine soon (will have Spec-U exhaust), so i can observe how lean the factory tune runs. Seems this could be interesting, and useful as a bench mark of information, before boost.

 

Turbo to Downpipe Flange Replacement

Problem: The downpipes provided are prone to leaking and also are a restriction to exhaust flow due to the flanges used.

Solution: Replace flanges with Raptor Ecoboost flanges designed for the Garrett turbos.

Parts needed:
Raptor turbo to downpipe flanges, stainless steel (I got mine here )
2x Factory Raptor dowpipe gaskets: Part# BL3Z-9450-A
TIG Welder

You don't necessarily have to get stainless steel flanges, but it's not ideal to weld mild steel flanges to the stainless downpipe. It's a little pricey for the 304SS flanges, but you'll get a much better weld. Plus the 304SS flanges are typically ported out for better flow.

The reason for this is to provide a matched mating surface for the downpipe and turbo, to reduce the possibility of leaking. I tried multiple gaskets but they all proved to be inadequate for full coverage or reliability.

The provided flange and gaskets both have elongated mounting holes which drastically reduces the sealing surface. It also provides a flat surface for exhaust gasses to run into, increasing backpressure, reducing exhaust efficiency, as well as allowing a ledge for gases to impact and work into the small gaps.


Below you can see the raptor gasket sitting on the provided flange. This represents what the turbo looks like sitting on this flange.


Here is the raptor flange. You can see the gasket is a perfect fit. It should be after all, since that's what it's meant for.




Here is the stainless flange beside the Raptor's factory flange. You can see the difference in porting.


Something to keep in mind, the factory raptor flange is designed to be used as a compression fitting, not a welded flange. For our purposes though, they are going to be welded. There isn't room to do it as designed for the Raptor.

For this to work, you will need to find a GOOD TIG welder to do this. There is ZERO room for error with these downpipes, so it needs to be a solid welder who will take the time to fab up a jig to ensure a perfect reproduction. Even the slightest error will throw the pipes off and they will run into something. I recommend before you let anyone do this, you check their work. This is stainless so the person welding needs to understand this and have the capability to weld it. It's possible to MIG weld it, but I recommend for a quality weld use TIG. Avoid muffler or exhaust shops. They are usually garbage. Just check google for the shops work. They'll usually post it. If the welds don't look as good as the pipe's original welds, don't even chance it.

Here is the welded flange. Personally I give the welder a B or even B+. Not bad, but could be better. Also I asked them to flare the pipe and set the flange INTO it, not the pipe into the flange. That being said, it worked, so no complaints.


Inside of the welds. Looks like they hit if from both sides in a few spots to ensure it was sealed. Had they flared the pipes, it would have been easier.... But again, no complaints. I had to grind down the welds a little on the inside.


Because I have the TRD Pro, my brake lines and master cylinder are quite intrusive. The 3 black lines here all touched my flange. I had to unbolt the clip and bend the lines into the space above the wheel well a little to give them some breathing room.



Mocked up. Side note, this is exactly how the original downpipes fit. Wanting to touch everything on their way down. So they got it right on the money. That being said, I cannot wrap the driver downpipe. I have to get it ceramic coated. I'm also going to dent the pipe a little where it's touching the valve cover heat shielding. Touching = heat transfer, even with shielding. All my lines will need bent just a tad more as well. The passenger side has plenty of clearance so I wrapped that one as planned.




My steering knuckle cleared as well. It was about this much before. It clears it just find at all rotations. I have solid motor mounts so my engine won't be flexing.


As for longevity, I am confident it will be fine. The welds are plenty thick and adequate. Since it's now 100% stainless, the weld should actually be stronger than the weld used on the original mild steel flange.

 

Amazing write up and info there

 

Great find and adaptation! That multi-layer steel gasket is also superior and overall a better gasket for the location. Due to the heat.

Depending on which kit a buyer has, that could also be a small noticeable improvement.

As for the inside of the weld, my observation is that since the welder knew that exhaust portion was post turbo, no Solar Flux not argon back shielding was used. A reference is the underside of the sensor bung. Just to share, not to nit-pick. Solid penetration is obvious, and where it is, flux nor shielding are "required" there.

 

very nice! Appreciate the time you spent figuring this out and documenting it.

I second the comments on back shielding. But I more seriously emphasize checking welder references, and that back shielding is mandatory, for full depth penetration of SS. You clearly got full penetration from the pictures. Research indicates that without back shielding when welding SS, much of the corrosion inhibiting characteristic of SS can be deteriorated. That interior weird looking weld is light sugaring, is indication of damage to the alloy, and leaves room for improvement. It's a pipe, how hard would it be to back shield?

On the upside, I have a water tank that I welded years ago without knowing about back shielding SS; been 10 years filled with water and not any leaks yet; so it will likely hold up plenty well enough carrying hot exhaust.

 

Is this kit still for sale? Didn’t read a whole lot of the original thread.

 

No it’s not. I just msged you on IG

 

Group Buy for an upgraded Port Fuel Rail.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ed-induction-port-fuel-rail-group-buy.766507/