3rd Gen Tacoma Tailgate Lock & Opener Installation

Well Everyone....I finally got around to taking pics of my own updated install. It’s only been since 2016 since I did my first install so I thought it was about time I updated my own system to what I was selling for you all. Things that I had learned over time that I wish I knew then, that I know now and what not. Enjoy the pics...

Started in the Tailgate area...why? Well, that’s the only place you should start.

The New Bolt-N-Lock Bracket & Rod - Tailgate Lock is an extremely easy process to install. Simply remove your two factory bolts, put your mounting bracket in place, and tighten your factory bolts back up using the included loctite in the Kit. It helps to mount your Actuator prior to installing the Bracket, but that can be done to your preference. That is also a pretty self explanatory install. Align the Actuator holes with the holes on the Actuator, Slip the Screws through (you may need to actually thread them threw) the Actuator, add the Rubber Washers, insert the Screws into the Bracket Holes, and then thread the Lock Washers on the End and Tighten.



To install the Rod, use a T15 Torx Bit and look for the little silver screw. Remove the Screw, slip the Lock off, put the Rod in the middle, put the Lock back on, and then re-tighten the screw back in place. Done!

Just a different angle looking down the tailgate at the BNL Bracket & Rod.



Following the wiring now inside the tailgate...now this is my personal harness so it is going to obviously look different than the kit. My apologies The New Red Wire is going to be for my New Stealth Hidden Weather Proof Tailgate Switch that I will be installing. The other set of wires, the “V”, you’ll see coming up.



Here is where you exit the Tailgate with the factory Rear Camera Harness and the Tailgate Lock & Tailgate Opener Harness. I actually had to switch the locations of the two Harnesses bc my Harness was bigger than the factory so it just worked out better.



However, the wire harness now is different and smaller and there is no need to have to swap anything. If you do not want to drill into the OEM Cable Protector, there is enough space you can easily install the cable between the little space they already have prior to pushing the protector back into place. This is 100% a drill free kit.



On the other hand, should you want to do so, I do have a pic of one way a guy did drill into his cable protector to give you an idea.



Again, these are just ideas for you to tackle your own install. Please do as you wish with your own Truck.

Now what is this space for...



This is the home for the New Bolt-N-Lock Bracket & Rod - Tailgate Opener.



Looking at my Wire Harness inside my Tailgate, I definitely will need to make an adjustment and develop a small Wire Extension Harness for this Mod. No biggie. (The Integrated Harness is now long enough that there is no modifications needed. It reaches all connections with no problem )

I started with removing the OEM Rod to the Tailgate Latch.







Once that was removed, it made it a lot easier to insert the new BNL Bracket & Rod where I tightened the locknuts onto the factory two bolts on the inside of the side of the Tailgate.





The next step, you want to make sure you stack the Tailgate Rod for the Latch, the Actuator Bracket, then the Side OEM Bracket, and then finish it off with the included push on Nut that locks on to the Rod.



Moving to the outside of the Tailgate and looking at the Rear of the Bumper. This is where I may lose some of you guys. I did not think of switching the Harnesses prior to doing so, but I decided to drill a hole straight across from my Tailgate Entrance to my Bumper instead of going the route to the next factory location. However, I could have easily done so. You may ask, well didn’t you start in the tailgate. Yes and no. I start in the tailgate but I started with fishing the wire from inside the rear part of the Bumper.











I am actually extremely happy with the location. I did use the same spot on the harness as the instructions because I wanted to check and see how people were running out of wire at the end of their install. So at this location I am at the end of the 8” of Wire Loom. Which means, I’m actually cutting myself a little short because I still have to travel the distance to the right to connect with the Rear Camera Harness and follow it up the Passenger Side of the Truck to the Passenger Door Black Grommet.

















Well I made it to the Black Grommet located at the Passenger Door. You will find this black box covering the factory wiring. You don’t have to remove it, but I wanted to see what was underneath and I also wanted to show you guys so I removed it. There are two 10mm bolts that hold it in place and that is it. Then it just falls off.







I ran my Wire Harness right over the top next to the factory Wire Harness.



The next part, in order to get the wire harness inside the Cab, there are different ways you can get it inside the cab. I will give two ways as to how you can do it. I personally poked a small hole and then just started fishing the wire through one at a time. I didn’t want to make the hole too big.







The second way I will show you is through the OEM Grommet.









Once you get the wire through, just pull the Wire Loom through as well. At this point, I was expecting to have ran out of the loom or I was kind of hoping I guess in a way so I just had to pull the wire through. However, looking back now, it actually makes a very nice seal with the Wire Loom so I’m glad I didn’t.











Once you pull it all the way through, put the cover back on.



Here is a close up picture of the Black grommet.



Now moving to inside the Truck. Run the Wire Loom Down the Passenger Door Panel. You can lock it in or not. I have a lot of wires so I chose not to. You may want to and that is fine.



This is how much extra Wire Loom I have at the end of my install with my 14 foot Wire Loom that I include in my Kit. You can see that I am at the end of my install here with my Passenger Kick Panel right here and the end of the Wire Loom rolled up because I have a lot of extra. It definitely has that extra 12” for a Long Bed that is needed for the install.





Well, time to cut my wire, install the Butt Connectors, and melt some Heat Shrink.



Finally, connect to the Lock & Unlock Wires on the New Plug-N-Play Harness!



And the final look down the Passenger Door Panel. Install Complete!



Thank You EVERYONE!

 

HELL YEAH! Might start this soon. Haha.

 

HAHA! Thought it would be easier for people to find if I just made it's own thread for the installation. It also would save me time by not having to make the installation guides anymore because it is right here I have it linked on the first post as well on the main thread too

 

I was about to settle on the Pop n Lock... now this has me interested. Do you Ship to Canada? is it still $95 US shipped?

 

subd

 

Excellent write up

 

Installed this evening. Very simple and well thought out product. -Thank you

 

Pretty easy install overall. Took me a couple of hours taking my time. Great kit, Katie!

During my first attempt to start the install last night, I ended up shearing the head off one of the actuator machine screws trying to remove it as I had forgotten the rubber washers. Picked up a couple of spares at Ace Hardware this morning. 1.5 inch with thread pitch 6 - 32x in case someone else does the same thing.

I restarted the install again today. There are a couple things I tweaked from Katie's instructions. I followed somebody else's recommendation and installed some Noico 80 mil car sound deadening mat to the inside of the tailgate on the exterior sheet metal. I'm not sure what it would sound like without it but figured why not. I also had some leftover metal tape from an air conditioning duct repair that I used to wrap the loom as it passed over the muffler. Probably overkill, but better safe than sorry. I also put a little bit of silicone in the gasket underneath the passenger seat after running the loom through just to ensure no water could get in at all.

After everything was connected and I went to test the lock, the actuator would not completely lock the tailgate due to excess play in the rod. I ended up wrapping the hook of the rod around the end of the actuator to tighten everything up. That fixed the problem and it works beautifully now.

As many have noted, this is a very well-thought-out aftermarket kit that fixes something Toyota should have done from the start. To say it again, great job Katie!

Dave

 

going to start my install this week and had a question... is the plug that goes into the plug-n-play harness pretty obvious? it does not show which one in the instructions.

 

perfect! thanks again!

 

I've finally installed my full kit but ran into a couple of issues--the length of wire from the actuator to the backup camera harness on the tailgate is a little short (based on the heat shrink spots to fit through the harnesses). I was able to get them plugged in but it was a stretch. Not that big of a deal but there is quite a bit of slack on the plug-and-play driver's side door end.
I'm also running into the issue of the actuator bar not locking the gate. It will unlock every time but the angle or length is off. Does anyone have pictures of how they bent the bar to correct this?

 

Having issues with the actuator not pulling back far enough. Tail gate will not unlatch.

Also ran into a minor snag where lock and unlock was reversed. Swapped the two wires on the lock side and the factory /dealer installed lock worked again.

After testing several times. Not the tailgate open actuator does. Not want to move at all.

Redlight on @DSIM module is lit, and dainty green blink is seen when hitting the unlock button on the fob.

I noticed the module seemed a bit warm. And had a faint burnt smell.

Ran out of time tonight to further test and check the system.

 

Sounds like you shorted the output on the arduino. Pm inbound.

 

Is the BNL wiring harness supposed to have the female butt connectors attached?

 

Sent you a PM

 

So I have been sent this picture from some Tundra folks...



Trying to hunt down the part no. to see if I can include it in the kit or at least offer it on the side for people to be able to get so they do not have to Drill anymore

 

Has anyone run into problem with wrong size push on nut for bolt n open rod ? The one that was sent to me is too big.

 

gotta flatten it with a pair of pliers that way it, when you install it, it will lock into the rod

 

Thanks

 

This has to be the most boomer mod of all time ...