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3rz fan clutch

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by nzbrock, Apr 27, 2017.

  1. Apr 27, 2017 at 1:19 PM
    #1
    nzbrock

    nzbrock [OP] Well-Known Member

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  2. Apr 27, 2017 at 2:24 PM
    #2
    nzbrock

    nzbrock [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Also, I just tested my current clutch and discovered the following:

    I can stop the fan from spinning about 60 seconds after startup by holding rolled up paper against the blades.

    I can stop the fan from spinning after the truck is at operating temperature (about 194F) with rolled up paper.

    The fan spins for a second or two before stopping once the truck is shut off.

    Are these all symptoms of a bad fan clutch?
     
  3. Apr 28, 2017 at 8:43 AM
    #3
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    Not sure on the part numbers and differences but on the fan clutch test, you should be able to stop it with the paper after cold start up as it shouldn't be engaged then. After engine is at temp, you shouldn't be able to stop it with the paper, it's cooling effects are needed then.
    Do you ever show any symptoms of overheating?
     
  4. Apr 28, 2017 at 9:21 AM
    #4
    nzbrock

    nzbrock [OP] Well-Known Member

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    My truck typically sits at 194F when warmed up, but I have seen it above 200 idling.
     
  5. Apr 28, 2017 at 11:29 AM
    #5
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    Fan clutch sounds like a good place to start. Especially since you can stop it with the roll of paper at temp. Replace the clutch fluid with new, I've found the right oil at RC hobby stores. Been a few years so I don't remember the specifics on the viscosity, etc. I remember just swapping in new fluid (thicker viscosity) because I wanted it the fan to engage earlier. Or get a new one, still not a bad idea to put a little heavier fluid in, just based off your location.
     
  6. Apr 28, 2017 at 2:43 PM
    #6
    RysiuM

    RysiuM Well-Known Member

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    The fluid viscosity actually has nothing to do with "engaging earlier". The thermal valve opening or closing temperature does it. The fluid viscosity needs to be thick enough to create drag between plates but not to thick so it can flow through the thermal valve freely. If the fluid is to thick the clutch would not engage at all, if it is to thin it will slip.

    It is not important how hard is to stop the fan , but if fan is spinning the same rpm as the engine does. If at the the working temperature you rev the engine and the fan does not increase the rpm with it, it means the clutch is slipping and needs to be fixed. If the working temperature is to high it is possible that the thermal valve is opening to late, the valve is clogged or fluid is to thick.
     
    cruiserguy likes this.
  7. Apr 28, 2017 at 3:02 PM
    #7
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    Oops, you're correct. Doesn't engage earlier, pulls harder or whatever the words would be to describe that. In the 80 series Cruiser world, it was a mod a few did to help with engines that got a blower or a cruiser that was heavily loaded with weight.
     

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