3RZ Valve Adjustment Advice Needed

I recently had some trouble with seized spark plugs which led to the rounding of the plug port threads. I decided to replace the head because i had reason to believe the valves were nearly shot and hastily bought a new head. Complete head, new valves, buckets, springs, cams, etc. I have never done a valve adjustment. I have not yet measured the clearance of each valve on the new head, but just by looking at them with what little info I've gathered, they're too tight. What are some tips for adjusting? Clearance specs? Where to buy shims?(dealer?) I'm not opposed to taking it to a shop, however, I'd rather save that as a last resort and learn the proper technique and methods to do the job myself. I work as a "mechanic"(I'm a parts changer/inexperienced wrench jockey) so tools are plentiful from my place of work which is where my truck is atm. What are some things i should avoid? I mean aside from taking on a job of seasoned mechanic proportion..

 

These are kind of a pain to properly clearance but if you'd like I can send you the factory service manual which details the process. Just send me a private message and I'll send you a download link.

 

Ok. Awesome. Thank you. Give me a moment and I will send a message.

 

It's not hard if you have the shims available. You should start by watching some youtube videos on how to do shim bucket style lifter adjustments first.

The biggest thing is you need proper measurement tools. I use a good feeler gauge set and a vernier caliper. A micrometer would be better but I'm far too lazy to be that precise.

 

So no rocker arm with an adjustment screw, just shims and buckets?

It could be hard to find individual shims through a dealer or parts store. You have to measure clearances at each valve and then write down what you've got and what you need and then do the math and then take that to a dealer or a Part Store order The Shims and wait and hope you get the right size.

It's kind of a long shot but a best case scenario would be to find or borrow a shim kit with lots of different sizes in a big plastic box. You can just throw different shims in there and get what you need.

Or if the head is not installed yet, drop it off at a machine shop, they'll probably have a shims kit lying around..

 

I know i have access to a decent set of feeler guages and I'm pretty sure the head mechanic has a caliper. I originally asked if he would help me with it. He said he would, but he has no prior dealings with these engines and suggested I find some people who have experience with the engine and know their way around the specifics. He's a shade tree turned "professional" via heavy equipment mechanic for a construction company. Rambling with useless info, sorry.

Thank you for your input and advice.

 

Head isnt installed yet and I Have thought about dropping it at a shop, but i don't know any mechanics around here that i know i can trust not to take my bank account for a ride for something i could do with a bit of homework and patience.

 

What you'll have to do is use the set of shims from the prior set and measure out what you need by using the differences.

Most older established Toyota dealers have shims still, you may be able to just walk in and get what you need over the counter.

Have fun and take some pictures, not many people go this far.

 

This is the initial cause of the mayhem. NGK iridium plugs. About $8 per. Thats the first set I've put in the engine since ive had it that weren't ac delco cheapos. 248k odo. Plugs changed every 3 or 4 oil changes and oil changed every 2-2.5k miles. Bought the truck at 140k and blew the head gasket at 179k. Haven't had any major problems since then until now.

 

I will try the original set of shims to start. I wasn't sure if that was a wise thing to try or not considering the wear amd tear of 248k. If i cannot meet or come close to the clearance specs, I will make a trip to a few dealers and shops. I live 40 minutes from Jasper, AL and anyone who is familiar with the area can verify it is a tacoma paradise.

Thanks for the help and advice. It is much appreciated.

 

The specs for clearance should be on one of the stickers under the hood.. if the head came with cams installed then the clearances should be good (if the place that assembled the head is reputable/professional).. they might appear tight just looking at them and wiggling cams back and forth , you really should check with feeler gauges before you get to worried about finding shims..

 

Wait actually I think only Honda puts valve clearance specs on the hood..

 

It is a range like 0.15-0.25mm for intake and 0.25-0.35mm for exhaust and should be on the sticker under the hood.

When you use the feeler gauges you can double up like 0.15+0.07mm to get 0.22mm. This way you get accuracy to about 0.01mm.

Don't assume they are correct. Check them after the head and cams are installed and torqued but before you put the timing chain back on. Well, it might be easier to turn the cams to the correct spot after the head is installed. You may need to install the timing gear/chain to make this easier.

Dealer sells shims in increments of 0.05mm, so like 2.90, 2.95, etc. But factory shims were in 0.01mm increments. There's no problem reusing old shims. They don't wear out usually. It's usually the valves or valve seats that wear and cause the change in clearance.

 

Napa does sell the shims as a kit. I found it easier to do the valve lash with the timing belt on. But I only did a 3.4 once and about 3 times on my 3.0.