45acp’s DIVORCED build!

But that housing doesn't have a 3rd. So he'd have to find an elocker 3rd

 

In regards to the diffs, I was originally going to go through ECGS and get complete 3rds, but apparently there's a local guy running a diff/transmission/tcase shop out of his garage about 1/4 mile from me. I talked to two almost random rolleyes people in town and they both recommended him. They said he's been doing this stuff for the last 30-40 years. After talking with the guy, he's willing to regear my diffs for $200 (labor) each, plus cost of materials. Good deal? Or should I just go with ECGS?

 

sounds like a killer deal to me man.

 

I say good deal, but make sure you do some research on re-gearing ---> (gearinstalls.com) <--- so you can ask him knowledgeable questions. Also, ask him to record all his measurements and keep the final contact pattern on the ring gear so you can look at it before putting the thirds back on. Make sure he's done a clamshell diff before because they're a lot more tedious to work on, and require a special attachment for the dial indicator to measure backlash correctly.

Another option... E-mail ZUK (the guy that does all the installs on that website I linked) and ask what he'd charge you. You'd have to pay for shipping, but it might be cheaper overall..... He's got years and years of experience with Toyota differentials. One downside is that I won't re-gear your front clamshell.... Other than that, he's great!

 

That is a really good deal. The only reason I would say go with ECGS is if you want to have the 5 year warranty.


I got a used clamshell for my rig that was super cheap since I want to SAS in the next couple years. But I want to go ECGS for my rear since when I sas I will be staying with the stock rear axle.

 

He could use his current 3rd as the core. I'm sure the dude would work it out. He's a super cool guy. Then your into it for <$700!or so and you get an elocker 3rd regeared ready to go.

Then he's gotta find axles and either a computer to control the elocker or wire it to a switch.

Jonathan- if the dude is legit $200 is pretty good. The local shop around here that I've had do quality work charge $250. Just make sure he's done Toyota 3rds and you should be good to go

 

I haven't dealt with ECGS yet. woudl be very cool if he took a 8.4 as the core for a 8 e locker 3rd. Definately be worth it then.

 

Big negatory man. E locker diffs are actually smaller then the open diffs. They are not swapable. You need a full axle swap for a factory locker. The current axle he has is actually considered stronger then an e locker. And when you put an ARB in it..well..nuff said..

 

Knowing me, I'll probably just bite the bullet and go with an ARB.

 

At least you will have OBA due too it. PERKS!

 

DO IT!

CO2 man. to hell with OBA

 

Ya I know the thirds and the diffs are different. I was saying I'm willing to bet ecgs would take his current 3rd as the core. Ecgs isn't doing the work to your actual 3rd they are sending you one that's already done.

On a side note technically you CAN put an elocked 3rd in a non elocked housing. You have to cut and then weld 2 longer studs on. A few different write-ups on the process are out there. Here's one.. http://sonoransteel.com/phong/retrofit_electric_locker.html

Get any tubing done this weekend?

 

It's slow going, but going pretty good so far. I probably cut out a lot more than I really needed to for 35"s but I wanted to be SURE they would clear, I don't want to go back and do it again later. Especially if I go larger and eventually SAS.

I picked up a nice Hobart (XVS?) auto darkening helmet at the local farm & fleet. Was marked down from $148 to $88 because the package had been opened. Works great though!



I cut a rather large section out near the door hinge so I cut a piece of 1/8" to fill the gap and reinforce it.









I'll be going over it again and the rest of it will be 22ga sheet.

The Hobart works great though, I'm quite happy with it. The welds were a little messy at first, but wasn't too bad for my first time I guess.

That's all I had time for today, but I work evenings all next week so I'll have ample time to get it done.

On another note, the body mount is awful close, so I think I'm going to do a chop similar to the 2nd gens.

 

Take your coilover off and cycle the suspension that will tell you if you need to take more out or get into the body mount at all.

Lookin good!!

 

i don't think you will have to do that. Just slap the tire back on and flex it out to check. All the write ups i have seen don't do that.

 

Agreed.

 

Taking the suspension off would be a huge PITA, especially with the added 1/4" spacer. I think what I'll do is since these can be done separately, I'll tub the firewall and find a place to flex the suspension. If it rubs the body mount, then I'll chop it.

 

Hey your doing the work so it's all up to you LOL

Here's scubas http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=166040

Basically cut cycle the suspension cut more if needed and weld.

 

I also think I'd be a good idea to remove the front struts in order to check FULL stuff...

 

What he said.


Looks like you have cut out more then enough, but easiest thing to do is just pull your strut out and cycle that shit.