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45acp’s DIVORCED build!

Discussion in '1st Gen. Builds (1995-2004)' started by 45acp, Jan 15, 2012.

  1. Oct 7, 2014 at 9:20 AM
    #2701
    45acp

    45acp [OP] Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    Limit straps are definitely part of the plan (I already have the clevis mounts ready to install) but I'm gonna aim to minimize how much the shocks are held back. The TG limit straps look promising, being 6-ply. :notsure:

    Awesome, thanks for the link. Right now the rear is 150/200 (front is 200/250), but as to the actual length of the individual springs, I can find out.

    How soon can you get here? :gossip:
     
  2. Oct 7, 2014 at 9:21 AM
    #2702
    NwiTACO

    NwiTACO Big tars, little/no bed.

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    Rate sounds about right to me. Your front spring rate is actually what I am running now. The lower spring should be 2" longer than shock travel, upper should be = to shock travel.
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2014
  3. Oct 7, 2014 at 10:14 AM
    #2703
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    I know the 6ply straps from TG are liked a lot by the LT crowd. They don't seem to stretch.
     
  4. Oct 7, 2014 at 11:17 AM
    #2704
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    I thought the fog on the outside of your bedroom window gave it away that I'm already here.
     
  5. Oct 7, 2014 at 11:59 AM
    #2705
    45acp

    45acp [OP] Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    Good to know! :cool:

    [​IMG]




    Got a rather basic question for you guys. I'm working on rebuilding the D60 hubs right now and I'm trying to figure out if I should replace the seals or not? Aside from the obvious (torn, deformation, etc.) and provided they are clean and intact, can the seals be re-used? Or do they lose their characteristics after time?
     
  6. Oct 7, 2014 at 12:12 PM
    #2706
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    id just replace them while you have it all apart..might as well.
     
  7. Oct 7, 2014 at 12:14 PM
    #2707
    NwiTACO

    NwiTACO Big tars, little/no bed.

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    I re-used all bearings and seals. My axle came out of a running driving truck so I figured they were good.
     
  8. Oct 8, 2014 at 12:37 PM
    #2708
    thegame

    thegame Well-Known Member

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    I got all new bearings and seals. Might as well do it once and they'll be good for a long time. Truck looks good on tires though :cool: Really like the tube work!
     
  9. Oct 8, 2014 at 12:40 PM
    #2709
    TACORIDER

    TACORIDER Just another statistic

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    I'd replace it now while it's easily accessible
     
  10. Oct 8, 2014 at 4:31 PM
    #2710
    Supra TT

    Supra TT Supercharged Lifter

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    Please tell us how good those bearings were!! :D Especially in your favorite K-Mart parking lot :p











































    [​IMG]
     
  11. Oct 8, 2014 at 4:56 PM
    #2711
    Slodgetto

    Slodgetto Über Posre

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    Freakin A. I shouda done this to my truck.

    FRICK!!!!!:frusty::frusty::frusty::frusty:

    Looking so good, Jon..:eek:
     
  12. Oct 8, 2014 at 5:30 PM
    #2712
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    Yes you should have..dumb ass..:D
     
  13. Oct 8, 2014 at 6:56 PM
    #2713
    NwiTACO

    NwiTACO Big tars, little/no bed.

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    Bearings were good...Driveshaft not so good lol :)
     
  14. Oct 9, 2014 at 6:57 AM
    #2714
    45acp

    45acp [OP] Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    Fucking Honda.:mad:

    I had FOUR recalls performed on the car recently (all electrical) and since then I've had several NEW electrical issues. Honda dealership assured me it had nothing to do with the recalls :)rolleyes:) and told me it would be $115 for EACH issue just to LOOK at it. I laughed at him and hung up.

    Taking it to the local mechanic that my parents have used for nearly 20 years, and as soon as the issues are fixed I'm gonna sell the fucker and buy a diesel.

    On that note, a double cab diesel is what I'm looking for and it seems the '99-'03 F-250s with the 7.3L fall into my price range. I hear the 7.3L is good, but the newer 6.0 is an engine to stay away from. Anyone know if manual or auto is more reliable with these?
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2014
  15. Oct 9, 2014 at 7:22 AM
    #2715
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    Go for Cummings!
     
  16. Oct 9, 2014 at 7:25 AM
    #2716
    45acp

    45acp [OP] Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    Those are just in the Dodge trucks, aren't they? From what little research I've done, Cummins are good engines but the rest of the truck is usually crappy.
     
  17. Oct 9, 2014 at 7:39 AM
    #2717
    SnowroxKT

    SnowroxKT Well-Known Member

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    The 7.3 is a pretty good set up. I have driven them a few times with the city up here. Personally if it is going to be a tow rig I would get a manual. No worrying about trans temps! On the other hand you will have to think about a clutch though. Personal preference?
     
  18. Oct 9, 2014 at 7:47 AM
    #2718
    45acp

    45acp [OP] Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    Is there a year range for the 5.9 that I should be looking for? 'Personal preference' is usually the lowest priority for me. I don't play 'brand loyalty' or whatever.

    Manual is preferred because that's what I drive anyway, and I figured it was better for towing.
     
  19. Oct 9, 2014 at 8:08 AM
    #2719
    NwiTACO

    NwiTACO Big tars, little/no bed.

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    Oh do tell me how much you love your Toyota then :p
     
  20. Oct 9, 2014 at 8:25 AM
    #2720
    45acp

    45acp [OP] Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    I do. Because it works. Tough/reliable. If I was a 'gotta keep it toyota' guy, there wouldn't be a Ford D60 under it haha. Nor would I be driving a Honda, or looking at Ford/Chevy/Dodge
     
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