45acp’s DIVORCED build!

Just saved $100 wooo!

I was close to spending the $100 on the LCE balance shaft delete kit, but after looking over everything I realized it wasn't necessary. Aside from plugging the passenger side oil pressure port, all that is needed is to remove the balance shaft bearings and re-orient them to block off the oil gallery passages. I'm not sure if I had to, but I also disassembled the No.2 timing chain tensioner and plug welded the hole on the backside that feeds the mechanism. That way oil flow wouldn't be diverted out of the channel that supplies the No.1 timing chain with oil. Quite literally everything else gets thrown out. Murphy would approve.

DSC00150 by Jonathan K, on Flickr

 

The thermostat that URD sells is also available on Amazon for about $20 less, FYI.

Here is the V6 one but I think it can be used in the 2.4/2.7L (???) - not sure.

$18 Stant OE Type Thermostat, stainless steel

http://www.amazon.com/Stant-14077-T...2215712&sr=8-1&keywords=Tacoma+170+thermostat

 

I don't think so. I noticed the Nippon site provided dimensions and so I did a search for the 5VZ counterpart, and the size is indeed different.

t-stat for the
3RZ - Dimension (mm): A:56 B:43 C:33 D:28
5VZ - Dimension (mm): A:56 B:48 C:44 D:30

I just checked the internal dimensions of the thermostat housing and the one intended for the 5VZ would be too long (C).

So I guess now I just gotta figure out if I should stick with the 180F or if it's worth bumping down to a 160F.

Since I'm going to keep the bypass on the back of the cylinder head, I'm going to try to modify it to accept NPT fittings.

 

Ahh, figures. Here's a MotoRad 170 for the 2.4/7 (never heard of them). I'm pretty sure URD uses Stant and marks them to the moon.

$11 MotoRad 298-170 Thermostat

http://www.amazon.com/Motorad-298-1...2215712&sr=8-3&keywords=Tacoma+170+thermostat

 

Same company that makes the 'fail-safe' t-stats. I gotta order a couple OEM Toyota parts anyway so that might be my best route. And this was posted on CT. I guess stock 180F is optimal, regardless of engine.

http://www.carnut.com/ramblin/_cool3.html



Edit: FWIW, I just looked at my original t-stat. Seems Nippon is OEM. Old-school 'Taq' logo followed by "NTCL 82'C"

 

Well... I was tentatively going to get switch panels from http://www.12voltguy.com/, but this was too good a deal to pass up. 55 cents each? Hell yes... so I bought 30 of them. Not a friggin clue as to how many I'm going to actually need.

http://www.delcity.net/store/Heavy!Duty-Motor!rated-Toggle-Switches/p_789066

To top it off, I didn't realize it until I got the receipt but they're like 20 miles from me.

 

Why did you go with flat terminals? Should've gone with screw terminals for vibration and impact resistance.

 

I'd have more peace of mind by soldering and using heat-shrink tubing to be honest.

 

Understand, difficult for field repairs or changes though.

 

Pulled the cylinder head out of hibernation to dry fit a few things, make sure I have all the bolts, etc.

I tapped the water bypass/thermostat plate with 1/2 NPT. I removed the tube from the cylinder head rear plate and also tapped for 1/2 NPT. A couple 1/2 NPT to -12 AN adapters and some hose fittings, and I have my water bypass hose setup done. $85 for that alone.

DSC00153 by Jonathan Krajnak, on Flickr

 

Damn Saran wrap threw me off..lol

 

That's the new head gasket. Self-sealing.

Talked with Wes @ LCE yesterday to figure out what compression I need. Looks like I'm going to go with the 8.3:1 rod/piston kit and the .040 MLS head gasket which will bring it to 8.36:1 compression. He said it's what they normally use for turbo setups and should give a bigger tuning window. I like the fact that the set is already balanced and comes with the coated bearings. As soon as I can get the money together, I'm going to get pretty much everything I need to finish the engine (minus the intake and turbo manifolds, and turbo). Get the block honed, crankshaft polished, and get this bish assembled.

 

Sick! Gonna be sweet

 

For full disclosure... I was a moron and forgot (more like 'didn't think it was needed') to use some oil while using the tap on the thermostat/bypass plate and snapped the plate at the thinnest part closest to the bypass. I had it bolted down while using the tap, but apparently that wasn't enough. I already ordered a new one from Toyota ($26 ). I'll have to fined a way to properly support the odd shape in the vice next time. Tapping for NPT is a PITA.

 

So I was driving the '81 today and put it in neutral as I was coasting to a stop sign near the house. All of a sudden the RPMs drop and the engine stalls. I restart it, have no trouble applying throttle and as soon as I put it in neutral to cast again, the same thing happens. Get home and decide to pull the carb because the seals were leaking anyway. 'Luckily' I pulled a what looked to be a freshly rebuilt carb from an '82 while I was at a junkyard in Denver last month.

But... there are several major differences, mostly vac lines. There's also an 'idle up' diaphragm in place of the idle adjustment screw.

Junkyard '82 carb on the left, my leaky AF '81 on the right.

DSC00163 by Jonathan Krajnak, on Flickr

DSC00169 by Jonathan Krajnak, on Flickr

DSC00170 by Jonathan Krajnak, on Flickr

DSC00168 by Jonathan Krajnak, on Flickr

I can't find any diagrams that show the vac line route for the idle up diaphragm. It looks like I can just block the tubes near the top? It appears to be for "Fed only OPT"... whatever that is.



Anyone care to take a whack at what I'm supposed to do here?

At any rate, this clusterf*#@ of an engine bay is bad enough that I might just do the LCE de-smog kit sooner rather than later. And by later I mean now.

 

Ethanol fucks up carbs

Couldn't help with the 82 carb but FYI, Weber makes a carb conversion kit: Weber Carbs

http://www.amazon.com/WEBER-CARB-CONVERSION-TOYOTA-K746/dp/B00SVKYR4Q

"Performance"

$490 Weber HI Performance 38 DGES Conversion Weber DVD 38/38 FITS Toyota Pick-UP 20R 22R

http://www.amazon.com/TOYOTA-PICK-U...qid=1454048216&sr=1-2&keywords=Weber+K+746-38

 

I saw a 4.8l v8 on pirate for pretty cheap, you should just buy that engine and turn your truck into a space ship with it and fly around the earth with it.

 

Yes it is, has to do it at school a couple of times.

 

Trying to cut fenders about 1.5"-2" and roll them. I was wondering if y'all could give me in ideas about what to do when I gut the fender right below the gas cap. I would like to not have to move it but if I cut my desired length the rolled fender would be right with the gas cap.

 

This and call it good... with a bow on it...