45acp’s DIVORCED build!

Finally got around to repainting the cap for the '02. What a PITA. There was 3 coats of paint and I made the mistake of sanding it off, rather than taking it to a shop to get removed/redone.





I used a single stage paint which was apparently also a mistake. It may be fine for solid colors, but not metallics. When applied heavy enough to create a smooth surface, the metallic particles tended to flow together rather than appear evenly distributed. I ended up applying it evenly, but intentionally leaving a textured/heavy orange peel surface.



Good enough, I guess.

 

I'm also in the process of cleaning up the '81 before it goes. But I need some opinions.

There's 3 options with regards to the paint...

#1) Leave it as is.

#2) Attempt to repair some or all spots that need attention.

#3) sand down the bed and doors and start over.

When I initially repainted the truck (4 years ago??) I sanded down to bare metal and used an etching primer. There has been several spots that have very slowly been bubbling up. Someone recently told me I should have applied an epoxy sealer on the bare metal first (which I didn't do, and don't recall that being a needed step).
That's the best guess I have as to why it's currently acting that way. In addition to that, I've been considering a do over because someone gave me a door ding on the passenger side door, and there's a defect in the paint around the mirror on the driver's side.

On one end if I leave it as is, but clean up/finish the rest of the truck, I was gonna shoot for $6-7k. If I completely redo the paint, I was gonna try and get $8-10k out of it. Is the extra effort worth my time?



Pics of the faulty areas

 

Probably not worth it I'd think

 

I'd argue not worth it for those prices?

 

Has anyone here wanted a regular cab over an Xtra cab? I see a lot of guys running Xtra cabs even though the regular has 6" less wheelbase

 

I prefer the look of a regular cab, but the usefulness of a extra can is hard to ignore. 6" of wheelbase isn't going to make or break you when it comes to break over or departure.

 

In a lot of ways it's better to have the longer wheelbase as well for some harder crawling.

 

I hopefully will start a crawler build in the next few years and I just kinda assumed you should get as much as possible in clearance, angles, etc. Does anyone else wish they had just that extra 6" shorter wheelbase ??

 

I watched a guy crawl up this absolute wall and he had the 4 door. Obviously longer wheelbase means lower CoG but any other examples? Just curious because this will help my decision in what to look for

 

Long wheel base will allow the front tires to get up and over the top of bigger rocks/ledges/ect to help pull the truck up. Shorter will still be on the up hill.

Granted if it gets too far then you bottom out so breakover is important too. But really the extended cab/double cab(they are the same wheelbase) is pretty ideal wheel base for all around. Often folks push the front axle forward a bit when doing a SA swap up front as well increasing it a bit. But that's more for approach angles.

Shorter also can rollover easier.

But if you want some inspriation on a single cab build, check out @TherealScuba's build: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/scubas-99-single-cab-sas-5-years-in-the-making.319907/

Or even better there was a dude that had a white single cab with links and 40s I think. I can't find the build though.. or remember his name..

 

Allen?

 

no his is an extended cab.

I spent like 15mins looking for it. Wonder if he deleted himself. Was a sweet super clean build.

 

BayAreaTaco?

 

Nope also extended cab and is green. This one was white.



Well either way another metric is to check out 3ed gen 4runner builds as they have the same wheel base as single cab Tacoma's

 

It’ll depend on belly height more than anything. Lower belly will benefit from a shorter wheel base to maximize breakover, taller will be more forgiving to some extra wheelbase.

That being said 110-125” is probably a good target WB. Stock xtra cab is 122”. I’m 118”with both axles shoved forward on 37’s and a 23” frame height

 

Without shortening the bed on an extra cab, you’ll be pushing 125-130 depending on tire size and motor. That’s long figuring most Jeep’s and buggies are in the 108-118 range. Most consider the magic Number to be about 112-115. Mines closer to 130 without cutting the front of the bed in my extra cab and you need all the steering to get it to turn. It’s long.

 

The obstacle by Buck Island Lake is known for flopping Jeeps. Bet the bros at the bottom $100 I wouldn't flip. Walked it without issue. Buuuuuuut I'm at 137" WB. It's a beast for climbing, but I have to Austin Powers tight trails to get around trees.

 

So no one here would actually prefer the shorter wheelbase??