45acp’s DIVORCED build!

I think your just over complicating the fucking piss out of this personally lol

Shoulda gone about it in baby steps.

Get the axles built

Get the axles and links coil overs ect, all done.

Leave the rest as is

In other words I woulda done it some you coulda have kept it as tacoma as possible and get it drivable ASAP. Cause if it sits on jack stands for too long..you'll loose interest

I don't think you should have touched the cab or motor or harness or any of that. It all worked and was Toyota solid haha


But, too late now haha

I see no point in changing the motor position and fire wall. Just adds way more Unnecessary work to the whole thing.

 

So many linked capable trucks have been built with out moving the motor and trans back. Why go thru the hassle?

You might as well just build a buggy at that point. Then u can put stuff wherever u want. I mean you've already stripped your truck of all the creature comforts a/c heat interior Haha.

There's still plenty that will occupy your time till all your parts are in. Cut the rest of your IFS off, grind and grind some more. Then when u think u are done grind some more. Haha once my last truck was swapped i didnt want to see a grinder for a while! Then u can finally plate it. Get your steering box mounted.

I know your trying to think ahead and build it right the first time I get that. But it doesn't matter how much planning you put in to it. One good hard wheeling trip and you will wish u did things differently.

Good luck tackle one thing at a time

 

Moving the engine back was a concern over balancing out/optimizing the weight displacement more than anything. I got into the wiring harness while I was trying to figure out the internal cage thing. One thing led to another. I should just have this thread renamed "45acp's ADD build"

All the parts are still sitting in the garage (windshield and roof liner are in my room though haha) so I can put most of it back in if I wanted to.

I kinda cheated with all the grinding of the IFS brackets and used a portable bandsaw to cut the brackets off the frame fairly cleanly.

On that note, wouldn't moving the engine back help make room for an intercooler?

 

The motor is tiny haha like there wasn't room anyways haha

 

Yeah but space can fill up quick. Still gotta leave room for suspension and other crap.







Remember, I blame you for this.

 

My main point is plenty of Tacoma's have been swapped and they are fully capable rigs. Plus you have the 4 banger anyways. Not like its a V-8 sitting up there.

 

Way more work than it's worth. You'll appreciate the weight up front since you like climbing those 6ft+ tall walls

 

Turbo?

I haven't checked in on this thread in a long time apparently.

 

Don't give him any ideas!

 

10-4, glad I asked before I started cutting.

lol

I like my 3RZ!

 

haha at this point I'd throw a 350 SBC running propane in it. 3 wires to make it run and plenty of torque.

 

Yeah why not, I forgot to mention the engine has been removed for a few days now.

 

This ^^

I hope you go through with this all because it would be bad ass to see Jon... But wow. Your $10k SAC is now going to be $15k +

 

Yeah baby steps would've been ideal but like I said, plans seem to change constantly during the course of a project so I might as well start cutting now. And there's no way in hell I'm ever giving up or gonna lose interest in this.

I kinda half listened to your guys' advice the other day.

I still wanted a way to access the back of the engine/tranny so a hole would be cut into the firewall anyway. I positioned the engine a little more back than the original firewall would allow, but not so much that I couldn't reinstall the heater/blower.

The way everything is placed on the 3RZ, it seems next to impossible to leave it all alone and at the same time get the upper link where I want it. Oil filter and motor mount are in the way. Wouldn't have been an issue if I had a passenger drop t-case. Moving the engine slightly back helps a bit, as will modifying the motor mount to clear the link. But if I do that, I have to lose the AC compressor.

 

Yeah, dual Inchworm and the original chain driven driver drop t-case.

 

Or in my case, go overly complicated and unnecessary or go home.

Here's where I'm at right now. Rechecked and it looks like I might be able to keep the AC compressor after all. I should be able to get a straight panhard in there too.





Hoping to get the motor mounts done today as well as the front portion of the frame and begin the link crossmember.

 

Well since plans change so much anyways...and you said a pass drop tcase would help things...WHY NOT GO THAT ROUTE? In the end the only thing you would lose is the high pinion.

Your axle is worth bucks, this we know.

Sell that thing and get a chevy kingpin axle which are a lot cheaper and still just as strong. Some also came with 35 spline stubs stock.

Go with the pass drop chevy and regular old school gear case setup with duals.

Simpler driveline, accomplishes your ideal link placement, and puts cash in your pocket which you can put towards the build elsewhere.

And shave that 60

 

If the driver drop issue wasn't something I could work around, I would go that route. So far it looks like it'll fit.

Shaving the 60 will be one of the last things on the to-do list, but it's definitely on there.

 

also just for the turbo thing. You'll be able to make a small intercooler fit in front of the radiator behind the grill. Which is the best place for it anyways.

Finally an axle going in place!

 

One more thing to throw out there...since you are moving the drivetrain back, why not do a fourlink F&R on this thing?