48" or 60" hi-lift..?

60" hands down!
I have a 48 and its too short to lift of my rear bumper. I can lift off sliders and front bumper with it but its just too short to use on the back of the truck.
If needed you could always chop a couple inches off with a cutoff saw to make it fit in a SB too

 

I voted for the 48" only because you have the SB, i have a 60 and it just fits in the LB

 

ill be upgrading to a 60in when i get my rack built...48in falls short if your tryin to jack your truck up in rocks...

 

Followed your advice. Ordered the 60" and the jackmate.

 

I ordered a 48" Xtreme yesterday and the winch kit. I want it to be able to fit in a truck box and wasn't sure if the 60" would or not.

 

all you new hi-lift ordering guys should jump on this.. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/group-buys/199142-relentless-off-road-fab-hi-lift-jack-base-gb.html

 

Definitely^^

 

Bump for answers



So in my research, I have found the following.

#1, pictures of people running little kid pretend toys (48")

#2, unanimous votes from experts voting for 60"

Went and myself a 60. Saw a post said it fits in shortbed.
Why did this man lie...

Took me probably an hour of cursing just to get the damn thing in, rather than let it flop around in the bed.
Above pic is not mine.
Mine is like the pic, but longer

You see that hump by the tailgate? And bed stiffeners we all have?
Mine tries running into that.
Foot back, handle up. Probably the only way to put it given how low the stud is on the RCI mounts design.

Do you just deal with stuff being at crappy angles and fitting ugly?
Because I get the idea if I eyeball it, I can mark with a sharpie where to shorten the jack, then find a place to cut it down, hopefully cheap
and either keep the foot on facing up or down, or remove and keep inside since I hear they're useless

I need to figure out a lock. I sure hope the wing nuts don't come loose from driving

It might help to remove the foot and store inside, but the cotter pin is beefy as hell and probably gonna require more than just my bare hands to figure out how to remove/re-install and without damaging it

TL;DR how do you shove a 60" into a 2nd gen shortbed

 

For reference, a 48” in a longbed, could have def gone with a 60” but im not lifted

 

In the last ten years since I wrote this post, the 1986 vintage jack got retired after I bent it again, this time like a banana, and go replaced by a new 60" one, but my spare 48" jack is still bolted in my truck to the bed, under the cap, so it says nice and clean. (read that dry and no mud)

 

more fine tuning to do

 

This is how my 60" is mounted but I remove the foot and put it in the bin with my recovery gear.

 

I can't believe how nice your bed it, with the clean carpeting...I have rubber mat under my cap on the bed and it needs sweeping once a week and a good hosing out once a month or so. Then again, I live off a dirt road, off a gravel road, off a forest service road. Today I need to haul gas cans for the four wheeler and chain saws, another winter storm is coming to the East Tennessee mountains.

 

Are these safe for at home for example, swapping wheels and etc? Of course with jackstands, my floor jack is not cutting it lol!

 

If you are jacking a bumper for the sole purpose of placing a jackstand, and the wheels are on and no one is under the truck, there should be no additional hazard. However, a long frame service jack, with a pad that can take and restrain a block would be my first choice. Note: I have four floor/service jacks from low profile/long frame to 5 ton long frame for truck use. The inexpensive Harbor Freight "racing jack" is handy for light use, but not for the front end of a taco.

 

The base can slip easily on concrete. A bottle jack or floor jack would be a much safer choice.

 

the carpeting is dirty because I spilled coolant on it and need to figure out how to clean it
Taking it out to hose off and dry is a pain

but BedRug is known to be durable and cleanable
Shell has kept some dirt out but not entirely, nor water, as I need to get back in there and actually seal it

used to have the OEM mat and sold it. No matter how many times I cleaned it my fingers came up black touching it and not sure that’s something I want to lay on if I ever have to sleep there, so I switched

thankfully seller threw it in/included it with the shell

yeah idk what to do about that I might have to find a taller bottle jack than the tiny cheap one I bought from harbor freight to use for popping my LCA bushings out during a rebuild.

I wonder if the upgraded bases people sell for Hi Lifts help at all on flat concrete, such as Relentless (sold out)

but still, my garage is narrow and technically does not have enough width to jack up with a hi lift if the truck is actually pulled into the garage.

I had a big Arcan jack I used to work on regular cars which seemed to max out when I tried jacking up my truck once test it out. Did not use hockey pucks or wood blocks. Nor did it have an extension tube thing added.
Maybe it’s the 33’s and lift that made it too high to reach

at least a bottle jack is more portable to store than floor jack. Which is also more expensive. Off road floor jack with extension im guessing is like $300 and even more weight to carry it storing in the bed.

 

I sealed the rubber mat by first scrubbing with simple green and a stiff push broom, hosing off, drying then

$45 cl303 pedal to steering wheel lock, red, 5.25"

cl303 conditioner as a sealant.

 

@TacoTuesday1, I use a 12 ton bottle jack. It'll lift the truck by the frame if I put the bottle jack on a 4x6, even with 33s and suspension that has a couple inches more droop than stock.

Its not a replacement for a hi-lift so I carry both.

 

The best hi lift is the one that you gave away and no longer is on sight. Cheers!