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4banger Custom Wedge Build

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Builds (2005-2015)' started by ke4640d20, Jul 27, 2018.

  1. Feb 28, 2019 at 9:23 PM
    #101
    ke4640d20

    ke4640d20 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Some more updates from this week. It’s been raining like crazy here in Sacramento area, so I’ve been able to identify some issues with the camper. First of 80/20 joints don’t keep water out lol. Meaning all the joints will be taken back apart and wet sealed. Also, the 80/20 gasket is nice to keep dust out, it doesn’t really work well as a water gasket, meaning. You guessed right! More RTV. Overall the camper didn’t leak terribly, but it did on all 4 corners.
    AF22A4C2-E2D9-43D8-B924-E336C3823E8B.jpg
    45C81D93-B388-46DF-9FE1-7A1D1DFB63B5.jpg

    Slam latches, not a fan, plastic that has already snapped after a little abuse. I decided to order these lever latches. They work fantastic! But aren’t black. So that will be Powdercoater more than likely.
    9DA8E077-C13D-4194-9E5F-E3EBC96BAC25.jpg
    Replacement:
    DC0A1481-ED6A-44CA-8F08-E3C2D071A608.jpg
    68A1F906-6B6F-4865-8533-DB2A72F49CE4.jpg
    These are not the lockable versions, I will be ordering the keyed ones. They are also metal, which is an added benefit.

    Last but not least, don’t trust your local ace hardware sales person, not all treated steel is alike. ALL the hardware rusted within a day of it raining. Meaning, the camper is coming back off, getting completely taken back apart, and all stainless hardware is going on. I am debating the option of keep the stainless hardware look, or potentially getting it Powdercoated. What do y’all think? Know a good powder coating company?
    6A848294-4A8B-45C3-A7F1-A53A4560664C.jpg

    I also ordered a new Dakar Heavy Leaf pack, because, well. AAL can’t hold the weight of the camper and stay level. So for those of you
    Thinking of building one of these. Be ready to drop coin on a leaf pack. Thankfully BattleBorn Off Road, hooked it up with some good pricing.
     
  2. Mar 1, 2019 at 7:32 AM
    #102
    smelly621

    smelly621 Well-Known Member

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    It's DLX son!
    If you're pulling the panels off to replace hardware, have you considered adding a few more bolts too each hinge? It looks like it would help tame the wave in the hinge.
     
  3. Mar 1, 2019 at 7:48 AM
    #103
    ke4640d20

    ke4640d20 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yes! I will actually be adding ALOT more lol. The wave is terrible, but I didn’t want to add any more shitty hardware so I just let it as is for now.
     
    smelly621 likes this.
  4. Mar 1, 2019 at 7:58 AM
    #104
    Ripcord

    Ripcord KM6PIM

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    Curious to see how you do your drains. My corners are a bit different than yours (no mitered joint) so I may or may not copy what you do there.
     
  5. Mar 1, 2019 at 8:17 AM
    #105
    ke4640d20

    ke4640d20 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I am going to try and find a way for no water to be able to get into the 80/20 at the top, I don't know if that's just going to require a ton of wet seat hardware install (on the joints) or sealing up the top seal better. We will see, it coming off the truck this weekend.
     
  6. Mar 2, 2019 at 9:00 AM
    #106
    ke4640d20

    ke4640d20 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    This week, once again, I learned a huge lesson with this camper build. A lesson in thermal expansion and better research.

    When I started planning the build, I debated various options for the side paneling of the camper. I pretty much ruled out Aluminum immediately due to the price point. Online quotes for a sheets of 6'x8' was running nearly $1000.00 per sheet (I think this was part of my mistake, as I received quotes for like 1/4"-3/8" material). I knew that if I was going to spend that much I might as well just order a GFC or a Vagabond camper and save myself the trouble. Looking for other options to use, I came across TAP plastics which after quite a bit of research and conversation convinced me that Starboard would be a good option. I obviously understood that plastic expands and contracts with heat, but I never took the time to research how much it would expand and contract. The main reason being is that, starboard is used for various construction on boats. Cant expand that much right? I mean its installed on a hot boat that sits in the sun all day. Wrong. According to the interwebs, HDPE has a Temperature expansion coefficient of about .00006.

    Meaning my install temp was around 55*F, the highest expected air temp it would see would be around 110*F. 110*F- 55*F / 55*F x 96" (length of material) x .00006 = .3168" of expansion. Now this may not seem like a lot, but 1/3" of a inch will create a lot of distortion on the hard mounted panel like the roof. (See image below, this was about 20*F temp change)

    This being said, I started to re-evaluate my options. Called a local metal supplier to see what their pricing on 1/8" (What vagabond uses for their sides) 6'x8' was, and to my surprise they were only $50.00 more than what I paid for the HDPE sheets. Of course at this point, I was pretty frustrated with myself. As I could have just made it out of aluminum and called it a day.

    So, aluminum. Of course, I am going to see what the thermal expansion of aluminum is going to be before I drop another $900.00.

    Any engineers following this, PLEASE CHIME IN. This is what I found online. 0.0000123 for coefficient. Therefore 110*F. 110*F- 55*F / 55*F x 96" (length of material) x 0.0000123 = .0649"

    So this is where I am at with this. More than likely will swap out to aluminum, and redo all the paneling. Any recommendations are openly accepted.
    263C6BA0-CCB1-46C4-9661-1A56522CD637.jpg
     
  7. Mar 7, 2019 at 11:54 AM
    #107
    VE7OSR

    VE7OSR 'interfering with Natural Selection since 1990'

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    Armour: All-Pro Skid plates - IFS, transmission, and transfer case. Pelfreybilt rear standard plate bumper, Metal Tech Sliders w/ kickout and dimple die filler plates. Front Suspension: OME 885 + NitroCharger 9000 shocks + 1/2" spacers for a 3" lift. Superbumps replacing stock bumpstops. Camburg ball joint UCA SS braid brake lines Future: ADS Extended length, extended length UCA BJ to increase droop capability Rear Suspension: All-Pro Expedition rear leafs, Walker Evans 27" rear shocks, extended rear brake lines (Wheelers Offroad), U -bolt flip kit, rear Timbren bumpstops. Future: Hammer Hangers, Shock relocate, ADS 12" or 14" shock. Interior: Weatherteck floor liners - front, Wet Okoles- front, ScanGauge, LED interior & map lights. Power moonroof. Exterior: Raider Cobra canopy, retrofit headlight by Insight, LED bulbs all around, modified flasher unit for LEDs. Rear diff breather mod. Front diff vibe problem, driver's side needle bearing replaced with ECGS bushing. yet to install: HID Blazer Fog Retrofit, LED Flood & Spot, + switches, fuse panel. swaybar relocate blocks (build my own)
    Idea re: water path. Could interrupt the water seep/flow from the top panel to the joint with the 80/20 by
    - extend the size of the flat top panel so it overhangs past the lip of the 80/20 material, much like a roof overhang.
    - on the underside of the flat panel, within the overhang space, cut a shallow groove into the thickness of the flat panel material. This will interrupt the water flow from following the material and drip off at the groove - creating a drip rail.
    - option rather than a groove, cut the edge of the overhang, instead of square at a 90 degrees, bevel it back sharply at say 45 or even 30 degree.

    example from moulding above/below a residential window.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qz0zBx8EIeA
     
    Taco505 likes this.
  8. Mar 7, 2019 at 12:00 PM
    #108
    VE7OSR

    VE7OSR 'interfering with Natural Selection since 1990'

    Joined:
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    Vehicle:
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    Armour: All-Pro Skid plates - IFS, transmission, and transfer case. Pelfreybilt rear standard plate bumper, Metal Tech Sliders w/ kickout and dimple die filler plates. Front Suspension: OME 885 + NitroCharger 9000 shocks + 1/2" spacers for a 3" lift. Superbumps replacing stock bumpstops. Camburg ball joint UCA SS braid brake lines Future: ADS Extended length, extended length UCA BJ to increase droop capability Rear Suspension: All-Pro Expedition rear leafs, Walker Evans 27" rear shocks, extended rear brake lines (Wheelers Offroad), U -bolt flip kit, rear Timbren bumpstops. Future: Hammer Hangers, Shock relocate, ADS 12" or 14" shock. Interior: Weatherteck floor liners - front, Wet Okoles- front, ScanGauge, LED interior & map lights. Power moonroof. Exterior: Raider Cobra canopy, retrofit headlight by Insight, LED bulbs all around, modified flasher unit for LEDs. Rear diff breather mod. Front diff vibe problem, driver's side needle bearing replaced with ECGS bushing. yet to install: HID Blazer Fog Retrofit, LED Flood & Spot, + switches, fuse panel. swaybar relocate blocks (build my own)
    Re thermal expansion. The clearance hole for the screw through the flat panel could be elongated to allow for expansion, essentially allowing the panel to 'slide' between the hold down screw and the 80/20. Ensure a flat washer is used between the screw head and the flat panel, and limit the screw fastened torque to be sufficient to hold panel down, but not limit potential lateral movement. Any sealant should be a type that retains elasticity.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2019
    Taco505 likes this.
  9. Mar 15, 2019 at 11:52 AM
    #109
    mattknowles

    mattknowles Member

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  10. Mar 15, 2019 at 2:20 PM
    #110
    stickyTaco

    stickyTaco Fuck Cancer

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    Nice progress. Did you order the 80/20 online or pick it up somewhere local to you?
     

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