4WD conversion - Request for 4WD computer Part Number

I'm excited!
6 yrs collecting parts and stuff, 6 wks of conversion and repairs is almost coming to a close.
last weekend, i got the 4wd computer up and running. i can hear it moving about as i shift and push the 2-4 and center diff lock buttons.

The only snag is the rear drive shaft i had sourced and shortened needs 3/4" more shortened, to center the support at the hole in the carrier bearing.
apparently the first driveshaft guy didnt cut as much as he said he did. i had to go to another one but...
they told me they cant really work on a toyota drive shaft bec of the reverse flare ends and they had to retube the front part of the 2 piece.
it costs much much more but i get a new carrier bearing and spider and retube... hopefully i can put it all together this weekend.

after that is the test drive ... keeping my fingers crossed!

CK

 

Had to work over the weekend but i was able to install the modified driveshaft today! yahoo!
Finally was able to test drive and it shifted around as expected. 2HI and 4HI as expected.
here is the indicator light i added to let me know ADD is engaged.

https://youtu.be/ASI6TZSSaAQ

truck also drives solid with the new ball joints, and bushings.
still need to get an alignment this weekend so i can go faster.

gotta get a camping trip going soon to try out the center diff!

CK

 

after the conversion, i missed having a cupholder for my coffee in the morning. and the water in the afternoon...
so i went about trying to get what safetydang did on another thread.
i ordered the Front shifter Console part # 58802-04090-B0 (~40+ship) from Elmore toyota in OC. socal.

but what i received is Part# 58802-04010-B0 which is the standard the 4x4 console without the cupholder.

the parts man tried a few times but kept getting the same part.
in the end, we tried ordering part # 58802-04130-B0.
and instead what arrived is part # 58802-04060-B0.

i had to pay double the price. (~80) and at first i thought it would come with the rear console coz thats what the "01 part list pdf" indicated.
in any case, i'm happy i got it. it fits great even tho its not made to match a rear console. you can tell from the shape of the mating part.
but it worked. here is a comparison of old and new. (color looks kinda brown due to lighting... )

and here it is installed. left is where u see a small gap but hardly noticeable... sorry for the mess. hehe
as you can see the color is perfect with the 01 tacoma color scheme. Dk Charcoal i believe. the old part is just dirty.


the new console came also with a gray color Pleather for the 4x4 shifter which i changed to black.
it works great!

forgot to mention, the front right hand screw has nothing to attached to. you can get the part but so far i didnt need it. its solid as it is.

CK

 

just toying with the idea of a taller bed, 4 -6 inches ?... using simple MS Paint...

 

So, you swapped in an 01-02 4runner tcase (multi mode) Very cool.

Got any pictures of what you did to add the indicator light?

 

Hi COMAtized99! i have a draft to put a write up here but life keeps getting in the way...
but here are a few pics i took when i remember to take it.

i wanted to know if the 4x4 is engaged and in what state.
reason is bec one time my 2yo son engaged my Rear diff lock and i didnt notice til the rear locked during a turn driving out of the house.
logically, i wanted to see. bright front and center, 4WD engaged (which already has a indicator also on the lower right.) then CDL, then 4LOW, as per factory sequence.
but i added a CDL switch afterwards...

i found the graphics from a VW SUV site. perfect for what i had in mind.
just resized it and printed on transparency. had to add black marker to make it darker.
then i had to make sure i block out the light from the other sources.

originally. i was planning on using a printed circuit on plastic film but i couldnt find anything easily doable thats not expensive...
so i just got some green and red and yellow LEDs that fits the holes like OEM (T4s?) and soldered them directly to the connecting wires.
i figured if i have to change them i just need to resolder a new one, easily done.
i did have to cut the hole in the film for this one, luckily, it was a clear area... other years might vary. this is for my 01...

i tapped/hardwired from the CDL, and LOW indicator from the mechanicals to the instrument panel box.
the 4WD indicator is from the 4WD ECU.
if i remember right, they are V+, and you wire them to the panel which have V- waiting.

i wish i wasnt rushing... could have done a cleaner job

CK

 

Got any photos of how it looks in the light?

I have a multi mode case going in my v8 Tacoma and I am using the ABS light as the CDL light, the normal 4wd light for 4wd.

My truck didn't have abs, so it was previously unused.


Edit:

If you gave control of the 4wd light to the 4wd ecu, the 4wd light will not come on unless the ADD actuator has locked. If there is an error in the system (add motor or tcase motor stuck or unplugged ect) the 4wd and CDL light will flash.

I played with the 99-00 and 01-02 4runner ecu before I made my choice.

I am using a 99 tcase w/ 99-00 4wd ecu, and electric ADD motor. The 99-00 multi mode case uses a standard j-shift pattern, and the 4wd button engaged AWD (4wd open center diff).

In both cases Low range is all mechanical, no real need for a light, unless you just wanted it.


Also, what type of transparent paper did you use? I would like to try and make a few of my own..

 

yep i thought about that too... i also do not have abs. but i figure doing it this way is easier as i dont have to scratch out and replace the ABS light. the thing is old and brittle. i did try to source the film from japan but it was not easy and in the end i gave up on that path. not to mention more expensive. see photo below for daytime pic.

yes thats correct. i just want it to be idiot proof im always distracted thinking about stuff so it helps.

i used 3M CG3700 transparency to print using a laser printer.

Here is a day shot. basically black on white. generally keeping with the design theme...
i used usps "tyvek" envelope paper as a diffuser below the film coz the LED is too bright without it.
on the left i also enabled the A/T P indicator and A/T oil Temp light. got the sticker from fleabay...

the white stuff on top is bits of foam bec i broke the tabs on the cluster.
i glued it but its so brittle due to age plus squeaks and this helps keeps things together and quiet.

hope that helps
CK

 

i had some bad vibes i can feel in the transfer case shifter when i go past 3000 rpm for the last few months now.
it doesnt really bother me except when i down shift to go uphill...
but after doing a drain and fill and using 5 Qts of Mobil 1 ATF... the vibes are only like 10% of what they used to be.
i was surprised! but its a good surprise! yea

 

What a transformation man. Wow. Great work and information. I'm hoping to do this one day.

 

Bump.

@tacopyro What part number did you end up ordering and using for this console with the built in cup holder?

Seeing a few different numbers, bit confused.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/transmission-swap-write-up-s.384303/

 

Hi Greg!

parts man and i had a good merry go round. we would order a part number but what they deliver is a different one.

In the end, I got p/n# 58802-04060-B0. its the same gray as you can see in the pic (even tho we actually ordered a 58802-04130-B0) but it worked.

Good Luck!
CK

 

I seen that, one of the most confusing parts ive ever searched for has been the various center consoles. Just happened to stumble onto this thread from checking various parts numbers off google and toyota.

I appreciate the input and posting about that console, going to pull the trigger on the same one !

 

I went through the same thing ordering my console. I believe one of the differences is that one I'd for a regular tcase shifter, and the other is for the push button 4wd shifter. The push button has a plastic ring sown into the shifter skirt so the knob can snap in, and hide the wiring for the button.

 

Agreed, they call it the "2-4 selector" took some digging to understand the terminology and then on top of that finding the one with the gray/grey interior.
Easiest or most common seemed to be the 5spd j shift oak assembly, ran into the combo over and over while searching.

 

THIS is what I've been looking for forever!!! I saw your 4WD lights a few years ago, and I was never able to find this post again. You were the inspiration for the 4WD indicator lights in my own conversion.

I did the same thing as you with plastic projector sheets, but I layered them to make the colored, and prevent the light from shining through the black.

 

Excellent! looks better than OEM!

 

Hello, been a while... just to update...

Haven't driven much since March 2020 (2k miles!) til September, but had to smog this year and its coming up in 30 days. whadyaknow. i got a P0171. But since i got myself a 08 Prius 2 yrs ago. I also got a windows based OBD Scanner so i can check its codes (it has engine and battery issues). and it came in handy for this problem.

I ran my taco while it was hooked and recording. on playback, i see my LTFT was really way off. LTFT was 31. MAF graph looks ok.

I read a few threads here about the code and first thing that was free to do, was to clean my air filter (its a cleanable AFe). it wasnt really that bad. but when I went for another run, this time the LTFT hovered around 20. big improvement! but not good enough! i read that LTFT needs to be around +/- 5 to be good.
I also tried a new paper air filter thinking there might be a difference but there wasn't any.

I checked for vacuum leaks and found none but some of the 20 year old hoses are hard and brittle, but still sealing... i'm planning to change those soon...

So the next thing is to check my MAF. on graph it looks fine but then i dont have a point of comparison. first i sprayed it with MAF cleaner. took another run but no change. The good thing is i had bought one from fleabay last year new for around 25 since its one of those things that could be causing a different issue, my intermittent P0420. (at 25 i thought it was a knockoff but cheap enough to try). so next thing i did was replace the MAF. took another run and this time it corrected the LTFT to almost near perfect. i didnt reset the ECM because i was trying to get it smog ready.

so after seeing the numbers are good, i drove to do the steps to get the OBD2 Readiness Monitor completed. Usually its a 2 day affair but since i already did the overnight Evap part. all i had to do was drive. within 30 miles the check engine light went out by itself. and I immediately drove to the smog station and got smog completed.

Afterwards i checked my FSM on how to check if the old MAF is still good or bad. Resistance should be 2.2 - 2.7 kOhms @ 20C/68F but mine was reading 1.8kOhms @ 72F. definitely broken. It could also be why its running a bit rich and causing my intermittent P0420? also lower MPG? i dunno...

As a side benefit, my Taco normally is hard to re start after a run and the engine is still warm / hot. it takes like 3 to 5 seconds of cranking to start. Now, it starts up instantly all the time.

For my intermittent P0420. Cat was on its way out anyway, so i got myself a Walker Calcat replacement. Works great for 350! First time i see an actual good O2S2 response since i got my scanner. All my other cars have the same issue haha!

Since then i also replaced my spark plugs and installed new fuel injectors. still no change to my graphs / numbers.

one thing thats annoying me is that during idle, my LTFT is around 8 when i thought it should be 5 or below. it goes down to 3+ while driving steadily at any other speed. I'll update here if i ever figure it out. (maybe the IAC?)

CK

 

I just wrote off my 03 TRD off road.
I'm having trouble (in 2020) finding another.
I did find an 02 PreRunner in good shape.
am I mad to consider swapping all my 4x goodies into a PreRunner ?