5 Lug Factory LSD

Did you read my post that I had my 3rd member swapped from 3.73 v6 as well? As long as it's not the electronic locker version...the 3rd member will swap. You're overly complicating things as I've seen in many other threads about this topic. And forget about ECGS if you just want stock LSD or regear... going that route will cost thousands... it's much less just getting a used 3rd member that's good quality and paying someone or doing it yourself. If you want LSD with it...get a pre 09 3rd member with LSD. Why bother removing the ring and pinion and doing all that difficult hassle about back lash and everything else... just remove and reinstall. Again you're making this overly complicated. Only reason to go wtih ECGS is you don't want stock gears/LSD and you want big wheels and go off roading. Why do you want LSD anyways...these trucks are so under powered...does it really matter? And if you have 3.31 gears...you need the 3rd member swap anyways since the larger gears probably won't fit if you just change out the ring and pinion. So again...easy to just swap 3rd member.

The thing you have to make sure is go get a good 3rd member and any differential shop should be able to run a pattern and verify it's good before install. There's a big nut that holds the ring and pinion...don't remove it...

If I had to do it again...I get lighter wheels/tires and go with 3.58 or stay with 3.31 gears to keep the MPG. If you want big wheels...expect MPG to go down...at least for the 5 luggers.

 

Thank you for the above info - no, i hadn't seen your post earlier, in the flurry of posts that occurred at the same time as yours.

I appreciate your input and insight. I am not argumentative, just for the sake of being difficult - and you've given me some new information to consider.

Personally - i am not actively pursuing a re-gear. I run only 225/75R16's. Even with that, it's now a relative 5-lug slug compared to stock - by my own standards. My arguments to date, have been based on what i researched and pulled together in terms of what actual limited info there is floating out there on the subject. After having done that (apparently incomplete) research - even going the cheap route and pulling a differential out of a T100, or something to correct a relatively mild gearing mis-match - Right now, it's cheaper and of less bother to keep thrashing the gear-box to keep it in the rev-range, then to go for a re-gear on that size tire.

I am not afraid to admit i'm wrong, given evidence. You've potentially provided some of that evidence. Thanks.

 

stock wheel is 26.85 inches... your wheel is 29.29 inches. It's a very large jump and I bet you didn't get lighter wheels and tires so you have more mass and diameter that takes more torque to spin the wheels. With 3.31 gears... you pretty much have to rev above 3K+ rpm every time to shift.

You don't need to pull a T100 differential. The V6 3rd member with 3.73 or 4.11 will fit. So does the 3.58 from auto (4 cylinder) and 4.11 from the 4x4 4 cylinder. Just don't get the version with electronic lock as it's different. Try to simplify, but seems you still want to make it complicated.

Jumping 2 inches in diameter is pretty big without regear. You should consider a swap. I do find it funny to read that you say you're not argumentative, but then say my argument is....

If I had to guess your wheel/tire weight...I say it's in the 55 to 60 lb range. Maybe even more. Stock is 48.5 lbs or so.... I've notice how 0.5 lb makes in my setup that is 49lbs but smaller tire than yours. So without header or regear... just making it worse just for looks unless you really use it for off road...but then you should regear anyways.

 

Well I have a toyota mechanical lsd with 3.73 gears inbound

 

5 Lug Fury is the official guinea pig/arbitrator, to see if this indeed works

 

Eh, not quite that horrible. the rim/tire up-size has resulted in a shift (pun intended) upwards of the effective torque curve, by 4-500 RPM's or so, when you sometimes have to jam-down and put your foot into it, to overcome sluggardly inertia from time to time.. or sometimes get caught napping, and have an engine cough and stall, pulling away from a standing stop. I still can keep it to a shift point of 21-2300RPM's in most situations. Short highway on-ramps can be a bit of a piss off, and i need to work a bit more to keep traffic spacing consistent in congested stop and go go go highway conditions. If i'm caning it, yes .. 3000-3500rpm is in the realm of an up-shift point. I do admit, i cane it fairly often - i'm used to the high-rev shift-point being around 8500rpm's or so in my other 'car'.

Actually, yes.. in my particular regional locale, finding a T100 differential is likely the cheapest, and most available route to go, as far as donor possibilities. I've already looked through wreckers a few times, with the same common theme: Tacoma's rarely ever are to be found in a dilapidated state of existence, within their razor-wire fence-lines. Those that should find their way there, rarely are there long.

There is some personal experience, behind my statements. Owning a manual version, that would be the best route to go to obtaining a straight-swap 3rd member. Plenty of rusting-out late '90s T100's in Ontario. Most 2wd T100's came with 3.73 gearing, also.

I enjoy a good, informative civil discussion/argument - don't you?

As for the need for a re-gear with my own truck.. err, no. There is a bit of happen-stance method behind my own madness.

The rims were cheap opportunities, at a point of time where the OEM P-rated Dunflops were failing, and failing badly. I needed a quick solution without retail pricing attached to it, and the meh OEM steelies that i had lived with for 4 years, were starting to develop corrosion on the brake sides of the rim - Kijiji to the rescue. They also happened to come with next to new rubber on them, that was a reasonable size increase over OEM. They are 16x7 aftermarket rims, meant for a car or light SUV .. with very similar offset/backspace figures to OEM. Nothing wildly out of place, compared to the OEM sizing. I don't know what they weigh .. but they are obviously heavier, given the P vs LT thing. The OEM steelies aren't all that lightweight to begin with.

I certainly agree that going to 29.3" from 26.9" is a bit of a jump, but not quite the horror-show that you make them out to be. I would call 29.3" the maximal ideal increase, before a re-gear would really become a necessity. I carry significant weight from time to time in the bed, which calls for LT rated tires. Throwing the rim/tire and suspension combo on for the purposes of haulages, turned the truck into an actual truck, instead of an OEM-handicapped Corolla.

Would a re-gear be nice in my own particular/peculiar circumstance? Yes - but, it's not yet a necessity - it's firmly on the 'luxury' side of the budget sheet at this time.

It's been nice 'arguing' with you. I found it informative, no joke.

 

HackD, you're a bit Fing nuts...but more power to you.

2011 3.73 carrier $450 US 1-800-626-6708 LKQ-Keystone- Broadway Auto Parts USA-NY(Stuyvesant)
2008 3.73 carrier $500 CAD Northstar Auto Recycling, Inc. Can-QC(LAVAL) 450-681-3777
2011 3.73 carrier $385 Morrison's Auto Inc USA-WI(Edgerton) 1-800-866-2277

So depends on how far you want to drive. I'm not going to debate other crap...just here to help. Your complaint that you can't find parts or too expensive seems hogwash...compared you recommending ECGS pinion and rings... I found these parts based on your zipcode.

T100 can be had for $200 less, but why would you want something that's over a decade older?

 

More than a bit. But lets not get personal.

When the parts searches were made several times over the last spring and summer - none were to be found. $500 is pretty low pricing, in CDN $ .. i'd be a bit suspicious about that. FYI, it's Postal Code, and Laval QC is way out there, almost another country, and another language .. i don't parlez en Francais, and they generally refuse to speak English, being Laval.. and i ain't going to be driving that far.

Thanks for the tips anyway.. but shipping, import costs, and an overall shitty CDN dollar are discouraging factors to me to be playing the import game, personally... and i don't have a Passport to be jetting over into the USA (Thanks guys, on that bull-shit Homeland Security thing, mucking up the Canada/USA 'open borders' tradition).. on a pick-up, literally or figuratively.

T100 is a logical source - when rust claims a relatively low mileage vehicle, a rotted farm truck or service truck, can yield the required donor part. Kijiji.ca is a good tool for finding these at good pricing, if you are willing to travel .. but i ain't traveling to Laval.

If you can afford it - and a replacement 3rd member is in order - ECGS as an aftermarket source supplier - whether just for ring and pinion, or a whole 3rd member is the logical choice - a known, good part. Just because it isn't what i personally consider affordable or justifiable, doesn't mean it's not a suggestion for someone else. Regional, and personal/circumstantial differences..

Is there anything else you'd like to pick apart, or are we done?

 

Sorry to necro a thread. My search-fu is weak and I may have missed other threads related to this, but this was the most informative I read so I thought I would bring it back to the forefront. I was wondering if anyone has used this limited-slip differential in a 5-lug. I believe it would work, but differentials are not my forte.

Thanks in advance.

 

Searching through my billing records, this is what i ordered and had installed into my 2014 Base 4x4 4.10 differential assembly. 8", not the 8.4".

$680 Eaton Detroit TrueTrac Toyota 8.4" Rear Differential - 913A541

https://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetr...aspx?t_c=12&t_s=237&t_pt=5589&t_pn=EAT913A541

Toyota Tacoma 8in. Rear TrueTrac
Part # EAT913A541

 

From what I understand the LSD you linked is for the non 5-lug versions only. It has an 8.4" diff whereas the 5 lugs have only an 8" diff. I could be very wrong on this though, that's just my understanding from what I've read. Might want to check out @HackD's build for more info on that.
EDIT: Ninja'd

 

I'm not 100% certain, but the LSD might work with the Auto transmission version of our 5-lugs, without having to regear with a new differential in order to fit this LSD into it... the 3.58 ratio of the Auto transmission differential i believe is 30 splines, and therefore should be compatible with the above part. I don't believe it would work with the standard transmission final drive ratio as both the spline count and pitch are non-compatible with 3.58 and above.. please double check with a knowledgeable shop to confirm.

The '8.4' is, i think, the differential equipped with the e-locker in the TRD and higher trim package optioned Tacomas. Everything else got the non e-locker 8" version - speaking of 2nd gen Tacomas, 2009 and newer.

 

LOL

 

Yeah, when it comes to differentials and gear ratios I still have a lot to learn so I'm not certain. Depending on how expensive it would be for a local shop (to me) would be for this job I might look into how much work it would be for me to just do it myself. That's a ways down the road though as my lug is just a daily driver for now and I don't really need to upgrade it for anything.

 

The 8" has e-locker, 8.4" is open or limited slip. It doesn't really make sense that Toyota did this, and they've rectified it with the 3rd gen, making the e-locker axle an 8.75"

 

Your post is making me want to have my truck put on the rack and have the differential dropped so that i can see that they actually installed the LSD that i ordered and delivered to them, given the "8.4" differential that i received as a donor, according to your assertion.

I know it's got that LSD in there, from the past few months of snow on the ground and a markedly improved degree of traction on the rear end... but I really don't know now, what fits and what doesn't.

Earlier caveat applies - check with someone more knowledgeable than i.

 

I think the 8.4 diff is commonly referred to as an 8" diff, but it is slightly larger than the 8" elocker diff, and has picked up the "8.4" nomenclature.

 

You are dead-on correct, i think... it's only taken 2 years, but yes.. i think i can come to final agreement that ours is the 8.4 .. NOT the 8".

The problem is the 4wheelparts website itself - it lists the LSD as an 8" component .. cross-indexing the part no. in a search, reveals the missing '.4' .. ergo, your comment in regard to the 8.4" being open or Limited Slip would line up as also being accurate, in regard to non e-locker Tacomas.

https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-14297317-toyota-tacoma-t100-rear-detroit-truetrac-tt-913a541.html

Thank you for clearing that up, before i messed someone else up.

 

Thanks for the extra info guys! I really appreciate it. Just to be sure I am getting this straight: I have a 2008 5 lug (2wd) with an auto, when I am ready to order one, I should order the 8.4". Is this correct?

I will double check with a shop before I have the work done. I am just planning for the near future.

Thanks again!