5Lug coilovers

Ok, drunk designing... assuming dimensions are accurate, wouldn't this design support lowering/stock/lifting coilovers? I'm too lazy to do the math on camber angles... anyone? As "designed" 1" o.c. Also, 1/2" base plate holes?

Also, 1/4" thickness... I've seen stuff like this manufactured in aluminum (my wife's aforementioned Celica) ... would aluminum not work for trucks?

 

Moving the shock will not adjust camber. Our camber is adjusted via the lower control arm.

The coilovers you see with camber plates are made for McPhersons struts, which camber is adjusted via the strut.

Moving the coilover on a double wishbone setup will only increase/decrease the shock angle.

 

Ok, bear with me, then why does lowering the truck via coilovers (more than 1 1/2 inches) put the truck out of alignment? I assumed, I guess wrongly, that it had to do with a steeper shock angle?

 

Mainly because of camber gain.

The upper and lower control arms are not the same length. When lowering
It puts the upper control arm at more of an angle pulling the top of the tire in causing camber.

It’s just the suspension geometry of our trucks.

 

Shot in the dark... do you remember the hole sizes and rough dimensions of this bracket?

 

The large one is 9/16” the smaller one where the brake line mounts to is approximately 6mm plus I used a piece of 1/16” x 1.25” alloy and bent it at a 45! The QA1 or Viking lower shock will need spacers. I used a 2nd factory washer and the 1/16” brake line mount to space the lower mount for the shock. You pay for the shipping I will send you a spare set I have.

Also what front shock and spring are you using?

 

Wait, are you saying the lower front stock mount is not 1.25"?

I just got word that my S&D mount has shipped. I'm going to wait until it actually arrives to order shocks and springs...

But, my current plan is to order double adjustable QA1 xxxx [sorry turned computer off] and 450# 12" springs. Yes, I want a smoother ride and want to compensate with the shocks.

If it doesn't work. I'll be able to accurately calculate my corner weight. And then I'll be able to order springs accordingly. For either height or comfort...

 

Single adjustable QA1’s or Double adjustable QA1’s?
Do you have a single cab or ?... I don’t have enough time and or miles on my 525 lbs/in springs to tell you if they are the right spring rate. A spring should compress 25 to 30% of it uncompressed length.
I don’t know about the S&D top mounts I’m talking about the lower mount that will need spaced.

Edit #1.5
I would think about these springs if you have an X-cab. If mine don’t compress the springs 9” this is the spring I’m trying next. Plus remember you’re lowering the truck i.e. losing suspension travel so you want a stiffer spring than stock to prevent the truck from hitting the bumpstops hard on big bumps. I’ve been on the roads and freeways in the Bay Area Cail. so I wouldn’t go to soft on the springs.
*I* wouldn’t go softer than an 475# front springs as my 12” 525# springs are compressed to 8.75”. I have an SR-5 Access Cab with a URD Super, I gave up on my dream of an L33 LS w/ a T-56.

Edit #2
Just ordered DJM upper control arms as I just saw they now powder coat in black. :- )
So now I should be able to lower the front 2”. The hardest part will be finding a press to remove & install the ball joints. Hopefully I can now run zero camber the factory calls for positive .2 for camber. I’m just a tad below 1.5” and the best they can get the front is Negative .2. This is wearing the inside of my fronts pretty good.

 

How much was the front setup. Is it plug and play or do i gota weld some stuff together? Im new to this xrunner scene.

 

The price is the same as the first page but the viking shocks cost about $20 more each. If you pick up the slick and dirty mount everything is bolt on.

 

Well not exactly...
I used 1.250” x .125” alloy and bent it at a 45 degree and placed it between the shock and the front tab that the lower bolt goes through. Drilled a 9/16” hole for the lower shock bolt and I think a 6mm hole for the brake line tab. I then purchased an 2nd flat washer that’s used for the lower bolt and placed it on the back side of the lower shock between the shock and the rear tab. I hope that makes sense?

Oh, if you looking for a set of rear QA1 shocks with less than 500 miles hit me up. I need a shorter rear shock because I’m using all spring and notching the frame. If you’re using blocks, the shocks will be perfect length.

Also if you have an X-runner and you plan on going more then a 1/2 lower you should look at upper control arms. I’m running 245/50-19 rubber/ 28.6” tall tires and from the ground to the top of the fender arch I’m at 29.5” and my alignment is in specs (but caster). I need to have a little less caster in the front because my tires are now rubbing on the back inside of the fender liners.

I’m thinking of raising the truck about a half inch.
Now I need to install the new white door handles & URD SC...

 

You should be able to get 1 1/2” of drop on an xrunner and still get alignment within specs with stock arms.

 

Hmmm...
With All Do Respect I went into Auto Nation Toyota dealer to my buddy who works in parts. I then had him check out all the front end parts and compare the parts between an 13 X-runner and my X-cab. The only difference was the springs and shocks. So again with all do respect let’s disagree. Because I can’t see how an X-run & X-cab are any different as far as susp. goes. Same swaybar, LCA, UCA and etc... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

Well I have an xrunner. It had 1 3/4 drop springs on it and it was within specs after alignment. I even got my Hawaii recon.

I don’t dispute the front suspension is the same besides the shocks and springs.

If your alignment guy can’t get it within spec at 1 1/2” you need to find a new guy.

This info is widely known on xrunderground. I suggest you look it up.

 

*Edit post*

Just an FYI.

I purchased a set of DJM UCA for a few pennies under $300, then had ball joints pressed in, I then installed. Can’t believe how unfinished and crude these are!
*Just an note* You’re not going to believe this but just installing the DJM UCA my front drop approximately and inch after the alignment was set. I adjusted the coilover’s back up.

I went to Two shops to get the front alignment done and both couldn’t get the alignment in specs. So I asked around and found a highly recommended shop drove across town. I explained to them what was going on they looked a bit nervous then pulled my truck on the rack. Made a few adjustments and bingo it was perfect‼️

Damn I can’t understand why or how the other shops couldn’t do an alignment⁉️
I guess they see aftermarket parts and they get scared. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

Umm yeahh common sense follow rules

 

why only buy the top for you need the whole kit to get in specs

 

Post pic my brabbah

 

Try draw a pic and post. Sound good to me

 

https://www.strictly-street.com/products/toyota/coilover-kit-x-runner-2005-2015