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5vz, Rebuild, Replace or upgrade

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by RangeDrive, Mar 13, 2018.

  1. Mar 13, 2018 at 3:17 PM
    #1
    RangeDrive

    RangeDrive [OP] Well-Known Member

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    My 3.4 has 329,000 miles on the clock, and ran like a top, until lately. Occasionally it stutters, at idle and while driving, the stutter is short but hard and usually happens a couple of times then quits. Reliability is key for me as it is my daily driver. So should I try to troubleshoot the problem? Or look at swapping in a used or JDM motor or rebuild? I’ve considered a Toyota diesel swap but that would be time consuming and a little more than I want to do probably.

    If I do swap I will probably do the transmission while I’m at it so I don’t have to worry about anything
     
  2. Mar 13, 2018 at 3:23 PM
    #2
    Itchyfeet

    Itchyfeet Well-Known Member

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    A stutter is not indicative of the heart being bad. Do a leak down test, because chances are your USDM engine is in better shape than some JDM junk that never had the oil changed and rotted on a dock for months if not years.

    If the engine is junk, just go to car-part.com and buy a low mile USDM take out from a low mile wrecked truck
     
    Ridgerunner likes this.
  3. Mar 13, 2018 at 3:56 PM
    #3
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Taco-mas!

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    You should start with the basics like mentioned above. Then you'll find out what needs to do to keep the engine running. Do you have a code reader?
     
  4. Mar 13, 2018 at 4:17 PM
    #4
    RangeDrive

    RangeDrive [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I don’t have a reader, I can go to the parts store, but there’s no CEL. I’m a decent home mechanic but I can’t figure out what is causing the studder
     
    Dalandser likes this.
  5. Mar 13, 2018 at 4:23 PM
    #5
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Taco-mas!

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    I'd suggest getting a blue tooth / wifi one if you have a smart phone - they're decent for the low cost:

    https://www.amazon.com/Foseal-Scanner-Adapter-Diagnostic-Android/dp/B00W0SDLRY

    Then get a $15-20 app for your phone. Even without one I'd still go with @Itchyfeet's advice to see if the engine is mechanically fit.
     
  6. Mar 13, 2018 at 4:41 PM
    #6
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Well-Known Member

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    What about your plugs/wires, MAF, throttle body, etc...?
     
  7. Mar 13, 2018 at 5:33 PM
    #7
    RangeDrive

    RangeDrive [OP] Well-Known Member

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    It doesn’t seem like a misfire ( wouldn’t there be a code ) , throttle body and iac have been cleaned within 5,000 miles.
     
  8. Mar 13, 2018 at 5:38 PM
    #8
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Taco-mas!

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    Check for vacuum leaks - I thought you would have gone through the regular diagnostics if you had posted on here about swapping out an engine, but it is what it is - you've racked up a fair amount of miles on that mill. Check for pending codes and misfire counters if you can get them from a scanning device.

    Since you're at the beginning of the diagnosis then spark, air, fuel, and compression are all possible, but if it's not a regular occurrence, you're right a bad cylinder may not be the case. You can check for spark and fuel if you can recreate the symptoms at idle...
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2018

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