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6 bolts for sliders?

Discussion in 'Armor' started by Bannerman, Nov 15, 2016.

  1. Nov 15, 2016 at 11:01 AM
    #1
    Bannerman

    Bannerman [OP] Tasteful Thickness

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    I have a had a friend make me a set of sliders but I have concerns about the way the bolt on. He has planned to use existing holes in the frame, which is great, but he fabbed them in such a way that all six bolts are in line parallel with the frame. I would think it would be stronger to have bolts one on top of the other to prevent the slider from getting pushed up. He is using 3/4" bolts with very large flat washers on the back side of the frame. Trying to avoid having them welded on. Anybody see any issue with this design? He is doing me a favor so I dont want to piss him off by questioning him, if the general consensuses is that this will be strong enough I am good with it. Just wanted a second opinion.

    IMG_2033.jpg
     
  2. Nov 15, 2016 at 11:05 AM
    #2
    HAVVOKK

    HAVVOKK Well-Known Member

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    Fucking look it up
    Most people have a flat spot on the bottom of the mounting point plate to make an L form so the sliders don't move up when bolted on. Otherwise they look great and he is doing a great job. Just have him weld some flat stock to the bottom of your mounting plates to where they will touch the bottom of the frame when bolted on and don't stress it they will hold perfect
     
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  3. Nov 15, 2016 at 11:06 AM
    #3
    HAVVOKK

    HAVVOKK Well-Known Member

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    Fucking look it up
    Screenshot_20161115-110533.jpg like this
     
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  4. Nov 15, 2016 at 11:06 AM
    #4
    Aw9d

    Aw9d That one guy

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    They are bolt on anyways. If you are worried about real protection then weld them on.
     
  5. Nov 15, 2016 at 11:08 AM
    #5
    Bannerman

    Bannerman [OP] Tasteful Thickness

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    I was thinking about asking him so add a tab to each bottom. Thanks!
     
  6. Nov 15, 2016 at 11:10 AM
    #6
    HAVVOKK

    HAVVOKK Well-Known Member

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    Fucking look it up
    Yessir just make sure it will hit the frame our frames are weird so just hold them up or bolt them on and then mark on the bottom of the frame where you need to weld plates to your sliders and then never worry about it again
     
  7. Nov 15, 2016 at 11:14 AM
    #7
    Bannerman

    Bannerman [OP] Tasteful Thickness

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    Just to be clear, you mean weld to the bottom of the mounting plate so it's L shaped not weld to the frame?
     
  8. Nov 15, 2016 at 11:15 AM
    #8
    HAVVOKK

    HAVVOKK Well-Known Member

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    Fucking look it up
    Yessir that's correct
     
  9. Nov 15, 2016 at 11:17 AM
    #9
    HAVVOKK

    HAVVOKK Well-Known Member

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    Fucking look it up
    Bolt the sliders up take a welding pencil and mark where the bottom of the frame is on each mounting plate and that's where you will weld your L
     
  10. Nov 15, 2016 at 11:19 AM
    #10
    Bannerman

    Bannerman [OP] Tasteful Thickness

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    Ok. Might be tricky as the plates dont over hang the bottom of the frame, but he can make it work im sure.
     
  11. Nov 15, 2016 at 11:21 AM
    #11
    HAVVOKK

    HAVVOKK Well-Known Member

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    Fucking look it up
    If they don't over hang might have to add onto it a little. Really only need 2 L but it's stronger to have all 4 so that way the sliders don't bend in the middle
     
  12. Nov 18, 2016 at 11:49 AM
    #12
    TacoDell

    TacoDell Truck ~n~ Tow

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    Donahoe CO's, Deaver leaf paks, Lockright Locker, All Pro body armor ( sliders, front and rear bumpers ), All Pro under belly skids, Warn M8K w/Masterpull synthetic line, Dual Optima battery system, 4 ea LightForce Striker 170 offroad lights, 8 ea wired rock lights, and plenty more I'm sure
    The tabs welded in support of the slider's standoff tubes are called gussets.

    I always thought an " L " represents loser !?
    Well if configuring my finger and thumb over my brow anyways. Lol

    My gussets are welded atop the horizontal surface of the standoff tubes
    tying the horizontal standoff tubes into the fish plates (triangulation).

    The upper edges of the fishplates will need extend more upwards (taller).
    Because the slider will need be mounted lower on the frame rail(s)
    in order to clear the opening of the doors.

    And so gussets placed at the underside of the standoff tubes
    may not be a possiblility anyways.
    My slider's horizontal tubes are welded very near to the bottom of the fishplates.
    And my fishplate(s) lower edge is not positioned below the frame rails bottom edge.

    Silly to create another anchor that catches on every rock ya roll over.

    Adding gussets increases the slider's leverage strength.
    And will decrease the possibility that they become bent up or down.
    I would recommend a gusset for each horizontal stand off tube.

    I would not drill holes directly into my frame rails
    as a hard hit could possibly see those bolts pulled thru
    and cause worse damage to the frame rails.

    If they must be bolt on sliders...
    then they should have a "U" channel type bracket
    that allows the sliders to bolt on without drilling holes into the frame rails.

    I personally am ok with welding sliders directly onto the frame rails...
    But not without first adding fish (base) plates and support gussets to the ends of the standoff tubes.

    Weld the fish plates to the frame rail surface... not the standoff tubes directly.
    The wider fish plates will spread the load wider then a tube would.
    And I've seen tubes welded directly to the fame tear a hole in the frame.
    And that would be bad.

    If ya need remove damaged sliders at some point...
    cut them off at the standoff tubes... but leave the fishplates welded in place.
    Then re-weld the new slider standoff tubes onto those fish plates.

    Re-welding directly to the frame more then once, in the same spot...
    is something that should be avoided.

    Welding is an acceptable method...
    But ya don't wanna keep re-welding the same spots.
    'cuz repetitive weld/heat in the same spot on the frame would be bad.
     

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