6" Pro Comp on 07 Tacoma

I installed it yesterday and today. I will have some pictures up tomorrow. It is a good looking truck once it is lifted. Again I went with 6" pro comp with 35" pro comp mud terrains and moto metal chrome wheels. K&N will be here next week. And I will be flashing my ecu for some added performance. I will do a full write up on pro comps lift with complete pictures. It wasn't bad but there is some things they can improve on.

 

Cant wait, why did you decide to go with the K&N over the other brands/

 

id love to see it!

 

I started the lift on Thursday and got started at 5:30 in the morning. By 7:30 I had everything on the front end out and laying on the floor.Everything was going good and on time. I had a Alignment appointment at 3:00 on Friday. I will be showing some pictures of the itmes I removed, and give some tips also. If you bought the Stage 1 kits as I did you will reuse the factory front shocks and springs. The instructions show a detail of the front coil over setup. However, regular spring compressor that you can buy at the auto parts store is Junk. Be prepared to take them to a shop and have them compress and install the parts. My father inlaw uses a guy for alignments and he did it for free.We wasted a good amount of time on the coil springs.
One bad thing about the Pro Comp Instructions is that the drawings and pictures are on seperate pages. This cause a problem. I would pay a little more for the pictures to be on the same page, little more paper but who cares.
Before removing the lower a-arms mark the cam bolts with a marker or paint pen. Use those marks when you go back with the a-arms and you will almost have it aligned. The alignment guy was very impressed. Also the instructions say you may need to cut the tie rod ends. Note on a 07 this does not need to be done. They give a jam nut half the size of the oe nut and cutting the tie rod will not give you any more adjustment. The only way to achieve more adjustment would be to cut the tie rod and tie rod end. Mine turned out fine without cutting.
Cutting the rear cross member was no big deal. Take your time and make a clean cut. Clean the cut with a side grinder and repaint it.
Mark the sway bar before you remove it. Also the book does not show to remove the braces to the front bumper, but in order to rotate the front sway bar they have to be removed. Those braces just hold the factory skid in place. I am buying a bull bar in the next couple of days and a nice skid plate.
The rear was a snap. I have built several jeeps new an old. And the rear spring setup was simple. The rear drop brackets for the brake lines was nice and fit perfect.
Another side note to all this. Some parts are not stamped, like the front brake brackets and they are bent for drivers and passenger sides. Also some of the hardware you will have to go to the front of the book and look it up to see where it goes. There is some room for improvement, and I will be e-mailing pro comp of my thoughts to improve there lift instructions.

Enjoy the pics.

 

5:30 before picture

 

Tires removed

 

Caliper, Rotor and Hub removed. Little trick for removing the tie rod ends. You do not need a fork tool to do this. all you need is a hammer. Do not hit the end of the tie rod end, or the threaded rod. Hit the steering knucle where the tie rod goes through. You might have to hit it twice but it will pop right out. This does not damage the knuckle, boot on the tie rod end or tie rod.

 

Rear Crossmember lifted into place.

 

Rear Factory Cross Member Cut.

 

Front assembled with tires on

 

Coil Spring Spacers

 

Rear Axle Blocks

 

Wheels and Tires. Pro Comp 35" mud terrain on Moto Metal wheels.

 

Side shot:

 

Front shot.

 

If anyone has a question feel free to ask. I will add more later.

 

very very nice. great job. now thats what a tacoma is 'sposed to look like. what did you pay for the lift?

 

1200.00 for lift. actually lift tires and wheels 3,000.00

 

16" or 17" motos? any rubbing issues that you know of yet? thanx man

 

17x9 955 series. I removed the mud flaps. and at full turn right and left in reverse there is a little rubbing. it is coming from the inner fender piece that sticks down in the front, don't know why they molded those like that but I am good with trimming so I plan on trimming those up a little, you will never notice it. I will get some pictures up after they are trimmed. But as normal driving there is no issues.