6 Spd Tranny Noise w/ Clutch Pedal Out

I must disagree with you on this transmission. The input shaft is the only shaft that rotates in neutral. When you are in neutral, NONE of the synchronizers are engaged. That prevents input shaft rotation from rotating the SINGLE countershaft located underneath the input shaft.
In case there is any doubt, below is an exploded view of the inside of a W56 Tacoma manual transmission. Only one countershaft, and as you look at the gear assembly and syncros, you will see that in neutral, no power is transferred to the countershaft. The only way the countershaft would be rotating in neutral would be if the truck was moving.

 

^^^ the 6 speed is the Aisin AY6, also known as an RA60. I couldn'd find the exploded diagram I've seen before, but the countershaft is split with the front section being driven whenever the input shaft is.

BTW, on the W56 diagram above, the input gear on the input shaft drives the single countershaft whenever its turning.


My whirres a bit in neutral too, not TOB related, and I did the URD kit already for the TOB chirp. I find mine is noisier when hot, but really only notice it in the drive-thrus, etc or really quiet environments. IMHO as a gear speciallist, its normal.

 

Sounds like something that shouldnt be spinning with the rest of it.... I would take it to dealer and while they are on ther put the urd t/o bearing save urself another trip.

 

13 drives 39. They used some interesting techniques with that Trans to make it shorter it's a pretty complex gear box. They are noisy in neutral.

 

I haven't disassembled one of these in a while, but I will just defer the point. While I don't agree with the input shaft spinning the countershaft all the time, I have no physical proof to show otherwise. But I am right about the number. There is only one countershaft, not two.

 

Me too. I put just a little pressure on the clutch pedal, and it goes away.

 

Mine's always been that way too. I got the TOB fixed by the dealer, they put a sleeve on it to keep it from re-grooving like it does. I JUST got a BRAND NEW 6-spd installed by the dealer and the whirr is still there, so my money's on the TOB.

 

I think the reason it does make this noise is that is that the TO bearing is slipping on the clutch fingers because the is too little residual pressure on it. It shakes/vibrates and damages the shaft as well. I've had/got vehicles with the Ford concentric slave bearing (which has a spring) and that noise is absent. I had a 911 and with the mechanical clutch actuation there is a spring that puts a little pressure on the TO bearing and again no noise. I also have an Alfa with the same design as Toyota and it does make the same noise. The fix might be to add a small spring that holds the release arm and the TO bearing up against the clutch diaphragm. But you have to be careful because too much force will reduce clutch pressure (it's like riding the clutch). I'm going to be trying it when the weather warms up.

 

Check T-SB-0365-10.

I was just covered under this warranty, however mine was more of a squeak with the clutch disengaged and it went away when engaged.

It's worth checking it ASAP to take advantage of any warranty you may have for this.

 

You're right, doing it under warranty is great until your warranty is over. But I've looked at the TSB and if what I say in my previous post is correct doing the TSB is like insanity, you do the same thing and expect a different result. Replacing the parts is very expensive and you will soon have the same problem. Why not fix it.

 

Well for one this TSB extends the clutch assembly to 5/60k. Normally the clutch is not covered beyond the 3/36k.

Secondly if you bring your vehicle in for an issue it carries an additional warranty for the issue above and beyond the warranty, even if the warranty expires.

Take it in, have them fix it. If it's not fixed you have established an ongoing issue and they will have to address it themselves until it is resolved.

Waiting won't fix anything, you have nothing to loose!

 

I like my truck too much to have Toyota fix it wrong, even if it's free. And I don't recommend leaving it, I recommend fixing it right.

 

Here's what you're looking for, BamaToy.

One countershaft. The hub for 1-2 is on that countershaft so those gears spin in neutral. It's a headset tranny so the reduction gear is, well, not really in there. All the gearsets directly use the input shaft. That means the countershaft is stationary in neutral (it is hard-geared to the output shaft via the output gear on the back end of the tranny).

The tranny on the 4 cylinder is the normal tailset design IIRC so its countershaft would turn in neutral. That's probably what people are thinking of. Toyota went all ...backwards with its 6 speed.