6112s in the front. Whats the best option for rear shocks with 1" spacer block?

I thought I was going with a 5125 but its for a 2" lift in rear. Will they work or is there a better option?

 

If you plan on just using a block then either a 5100 or 5125 (assuming pn

$110 33-230337 Monotube Shock Absorber, 46mm

33-230337) would work fine. However trying to match the dampening capability with the 6112's is not easy. The 5160 is nothing more than a 5100 with a reservoir, so just better cooling if you're running them hard but not a better ride. I believe the rear shock that matches performance best is the 8100, but those are $1k each! There was a guy that tried many manufactures and models on the 6112 forum in the suspension thread and finally settled on the 8100, then shortly after that changed his 6112's for 8112's.

Personally I went with the B110 5100's (16.34 collapsed/27.28" ext) since I wanted the extended droop, however other changes are need due to the additional travel. I think they ride fine, I wasn't expecting it to be life alerting. However they clearly cannot compete with the 6112's. The 5100 and 5160 (14.02" collapsed/22.94" ext) have about (I believe its within 1/4") the same amount of piston travel as the stock rear shocks. So you aren't gaining any travel with those shocks. The 5125's (15.01" collapsed/24.38" ext) do gain about 1 1/2" more down travel but the up travel is shorter, so you may need taller bump stops if your piston is bottoming out before bottoming the bump stop. I haven't read any reviews on ride quality, but I would venture to say it is similar to the 5100/5160 since they both use a 46mm piston, both digressive valving and irrc the valving numbers are the same. You can find valving info on Bilsteins site if you know the part number of the shock.

 

Thanks so much. My internet was down. I plan on installing fronts then see where i am at with 4 5 setting. I can get 5125s local. I was just worried they may be to long. At what point would you need to extend brake lines?

 

ive got the 6112's, 5160 rears paired with general spring HD leafs. I run a full 3/4" drawer system and commercial leer canopy w/ tools and it feels like the 5160s cant keep up with that amount of weight (400+ lbs). But does ok with just the drawer system

 

If I recall with the 5125's you will be fine with the factory brake line but you may need to add a spacer on the mounting bracket on the axle just to give you a little wiggle room. I did not initially install my extended brake line when I added the B110 5100's, but was just daily driving it and not doing any serious flexing so I just had to be mindful of that.

Also if you are replacing the leaf springs then there is an easy test to check your brake line length and bump stop measurements. Leave one leaf spring completely out (I'll choose the left leaf removed for this description), install your 5125's on both sides, slowly lower your jack on the right side of the axle until full droop (watching the brake line), remove the jack, jack up the left side until either it is seated against the bump stop or the shock bottoms out in upward travel and during all of this keep an eye on the brake line. You want some slop in the brake line, if it starts to get tight then you either need a spacer or a longer line depending on how tight it is. Also while doing this test, make note of your left shock (the one you are jacking up) compressed length (15.01" for the 5125) and ensure that when you are up against the bump stop you still have some wiggle room before the shock bottoms out since your jack doesn't have the ability to replicate high shock loads like you do off road and will not be able to compress the bump stop fully. I would say if you were around 15.75" (15 3/4") you should be good. But if the shock is at max compression you'll have to measure the gap between the bump stop and the bump stop pad and figure out how much taller of a bump stop you will need.

I used a GM 15712438 bump stops as they are the length I needed, they are progressive (meaning they get stiffer as it compresses which is nice so acts as a buffer instead of a hard stop) and they are far cheaper than other bump stops specifically made for our applications. I know sumo springs and others are great products, but $200+ bump stops seem outrageous to me, just my opinion. You can kinda see the bump stops in the picture below.

 

Wow. Thanks for the jnfo.

 

Once again thanks. I think I will try the 5125s. Now that I have a reference it should not be to hard to do myself. At first I was just going to do a simple 5100 lift and bigger tires for my Thanksgiving trip to Moab. Now it looks like I have a little more work do do but it will be worth it in the end.

 

I have an SR and carry just the minimum weight. I was going to try a spacer block to get the correct set up then possibly get custom some leafs made at a later time. AAL not for me. Just to stiff.

 

I hear ya! I'm glad you have a plan in place to replace the leaf springs at some point. Spacer and AAL's aren't ideal as you've indicated, but sometimes you just need something to get you by and I totally understand!

Another shock to look at in the future is the 7100 series. I haven't done a whole lot of research but I know some of the long travel guys use them since they are available in many lengths and valving specs. Plus they have a remote reservoir to help keep temps in check on bumpy sections that you may be going faster on.

 

Just to give you an idea of resting droop between B110 5100's (on the left with dakar leaf springs) and the stock (right) rear shock. The available droop is actually more than what is seen here since there is no additional weight on the left, I would say by at least 2" more available droop. It looks like the axle is resting on the jack, but it isn't.

 

Doesn’t the 5160 have a bigger shaft and body? I know they ride better then any other Bilstein I’ve had in a Toyota. Especially when towing or off-road. I’ve had 5100s and 5125s

 

Here are the 5125 specs per Bilstein's catalog, though it does not show the piston diameter. The 5100 and 5125 both have 46mm pistons and are digressively valved. The shaft size on the 5100 is 11mm where as the 5125 is 14mm, thats a pretty big difference in scheme of things. I don't recall the valving specs for the 5100 but I believe they are the same as the 5125. It has been discussed on the forum before, but I haven't dug for it.

https://cart.bilsteinus.com/Portals/0/PDF/BILSTEINORCatalog2020_WEB.pdf

 

If you're going with 6112 in the front don't cheap out on the rears. 5160. That's a better shock than any of the others mentioned in this thread. And, more importantly, it's the proper pairing for the 6112 front shocks.

 

I don't really see why that is. The valving and extended/collapsed length is the same as a 5100 just with an added reservoir for better temperature management. If you are not running down rough roads at speed, you'll likely never know the difference. There have been comments on this forum from people that were disappointed when switching from 5100's to 5160's expecting better ride quality and not seeing any appreciable difference in ride quality.

There has even been a member that tried multiple rear shocks (even other brands that are digressively valved like the 6112) to find one that suits the 6112's damping ability well. He ended up finding that the 8100 is the closest match to the 6112 as far as dampening capability, but those are $1000 each. He later installed 8112's in the front as well. The 6112 is an insanely high performance shock especially for the price. It is hard to match it's ability with anything considered affordable.

 

Could it be that people are also replacing their factory leafs at the same time as their shocks and are getting a rough ride as a result? You can’t really do a fair comparison of how good a shock is compared to another unless you only change one variable. Just a idea. I love my 5160s and I don’t off-road much. To and from camp while fishing, hunting, hiking, or whatever is mostly all I do.