6MT throwout bearing and clutch system shenanigans

Here are the results of my failed slave cylinder. My input shaft quill is completely sheared, and there is plenty of metal shards in the bottom of the bellhousing (TOB disintegrated).

Currently online looking for a used RA60F, or maybe just the components to repair the quill, although I assume I will be needing a new bellhousing and therefore a rebuild. Way above my pay grade.

Somewhat lost on what to do from here, looks like my savings are about to go in the red. Any advice is appreciated.

 

Some more pics if anyone is interested...

Don't mean to hijack this thread, but thought it might be relevant.

 

oof! No bueno man.

In this situation, I’d be looking for a replacement trans. Or considering an RC62F swap. You could rebuild and replace the bell housing. But, for what that would cost… I dunno. Depends on how bad that input shaft is damaged.

 

@BillDaCat8 have you heard anything new from Kirk?

 

Crickets.


Been tinkering tho.

Special project for @garciav who tragically lost his quill while saving a bus load of nuns from falling off a cliff in Texas (long story)







Special thanks to @XPOTRPR for the ultra precise hole reaming.

 

That's a hell of a save! How did you go about keeping the Tilton unit concentric? Were you able to use what was left of the quill?

 

Yes, it centers on the stump.

 

That was a fun little project. Glad it worked out and excited to be a part of it!

 

Oof. Any other manufacturers come to mind that I could also pitch this product idea to?

 

you realize that 3 guys sending Tilton an e-mail is not much of a pitch, right?

 

The more the merrier. Contact them (Tilton) yourself if you’re interested. It’s just another contact by a potential customer that will keep the idea present in their minds. The more people they hear from, the better our chances are. Sounds like the real challenge for them is parts being hard to source. That’s just how things are these days. Everyone has COVID to blame.

 

Ill hit them up.
Would be useful if anyone knows a way to obtain info from Toyota corporate on how many manual 2nd gens were sold.
That info is easy to obtain for other brands.
To suggest to them there may be a lot of market for it

 

Downer much? Billdacat has already done a bunch of legwork for them. I believe that they're aware of the potential of the product.

 

Reminds me of the FluidAmpr. Requires 100 interested people to be made. Surely there's more Tacomas than that.
Would benefit all 2nd gens. Can even fit auto-tragics too. Not to mention other vehicles with that motor like FJ and 4Runner.
Affordable. Easy to install.
Were enough people down to get it brought to market? No.

 

I know most here hate the clutch masters hydro kit but after almost 2 years I’m still leak free and everything by is fine. The engine on the other hand not so good

 

That's great that it's lasted you! Time to buy a lotto ticket.

 

Well folks, the dream is dead. We aren't getting a dedicated HRB kit from Tilton.

I would have appreciated a touch more honesty by letting me down sooner, but I guess he was overly ambitious ambitious like I was.

 

@BillDaCat8 I am starting to feel more inclined to tackle this as a DIY now that Tilton pre-made kit dream is over and my throwout bearing sounds like it's about to explode.

Can you please read over my task list and critique as necessary so that I fully understand all that is necessary in order to make the Tilton 6000 series (using your Page #1 part numbers) work with the stock Aisin RA60F clutch, flywheel and pressure plate? I have a feeling that this will also aid others as well. And thank you once again for your devotion to this project.


In no particular order:

- Make a custom bracket that connects from the existing OE pivot ball threaded hole to the new location for the Tilton HRB anti-rotation pin

- Relieve the ID chamfer on the Tilton threaded sleeve, making enough clearance that it fits over the radius of the RA60F TOB snout

* This point I am most foggy on: machine an aluminum bushing to (?) dimensions, press it on to the Tilton unit, and then press Toyota 90363-45013 (?) bearing onto Tilton unit

- Machine two holes to (?) dimensions in half-moon plugs to run hydraulic lines through

- Swap out OE plastic clutch pedal and CMC with FJ cruiser pedal assembly and late-model taco cast aluminum CMC. Extend clevis with a coupler. Add adjustable pedal stop to pedal arm.
Side Note: The replacement Beck Arnley CMC that I ordered off Rock Auto years ago for my 2007 looks identical to the ones in your photos

- Set Tilton HRB static clearance at 1/8" from pressure plate fingers as per Tilton YouTube video

- Bleed all air out of hydraulic lines

- Enjoy shifting gears in your truck for the first time in forever, instead of being plagued by chirping crickets and dreadful pedal feel

 

The bracket to hold the pin is super simple. I just made one up from a piece of 3/8” (maybe 5/16” but somewhere in that ballpark) aluminum plate that I had laying around. Just used a hacksaw and a couple of files to shape it and smoothen it out. Then drilled the holes and tapped for the pin.

The threaded sleeve fit perfectly on the RA trans bell housing that I had to test and measure things. I only needed to clean it up to seat all the way on the RC trans. So, you should be fine there.

The sleeve/bushing was a way to adapt the bearing to the Tilton piston. The piston where it mates to the bearing is 5mm smaller than the i.d. of the bearing. (40mm vs. 45mm) This needs to be fairly precise machining. You’re dealing with numbers that need to be correct to .001” Honestly, my lathe is a POS. I really don’t want to spend half a day to make another one. I’m sure any machinist with a decent lathe can churn you one out much faster. @XPOTRPR comes to mind. Now that I think of it. We should have him make several.

The half-moon hole plugs are optional. I just did them because I had a pair of them to play with. You could easily find a rubber grommet or the like to do the same job.

The whole pedal swap is very straightforward. I’m sure that your existing master cyl will work just fine.

Measuring is easy. Just a couple of rulers and a straight edge wide enough to span the bell housing.

Initial bleeding was a bit of a pain. The piston in the unit was fully seated and was not allowing fluid to pass through to bleed. The solution there was to fill the reservoir and then wait till after lunch for some of the air bubbles to travel upwards and the fluid to gravity feed into the unit as much as it can. Then, close off the bleeder and rapidly pump the pedal to unseat that piston. Once it moved forward a bit, the rest was easy.

None of this stuff is difficult at all. Just take your time and make sure it’s all right. Have a spare vehicle so that you’re not stressing on getting it all back together before Monday.

 

I can definitely talk our lathe guy to do a few probably. @BillDaCat8 you have a model by chance? or just the Dims and we can model it up here..