6MT throwout bearing and clutch system shenanigans

(See responses in quote)

Also, did you delete your accumulator valve on the exterior of the transmission Bill?

 

Guys: can you explain why the need to mess with the clutch foot pedal?
I've been watching this thread for a year or so now, right after I got in a "group buy" for a Clutch Master's unit... which sits on my shelf and I really don't think it will ever make it into my truck....

 

It is done to get rid of the plastic pedal that makes a lot of noise when operating. Simply put.

 

the FJ pedal makes it easier to add a travel stop

 

I'm also curious what material the Tilton piston is made out of... Or what coating it may have on it. Both will effect which material is needed for the bushing if we want to avoid everything welding together from corrosion over time (see chart). Bronze isn't always fun to work with, but will suit more material applications.

 

Interesting....
I'll be doing some new Listening tomorrow morning..... not sure that i've ever deciphered a particular noise from my clutch pedal before.... I'm at 247k miles on the original clutch so far... my TO bearing certainly squeaks...

 

Yes, that thing was deleted a long time ago.

 

Aluminum coated with Teflon if I remember correctly.

 

@BillDaCat8 can I wring some extra response out of you on these three points?

EDIT: Forgot to ask you about the hydraulic lines. Were the Tilton lines long enough to reach the hardline on the firewall, or did you have to extend them? I see on the 1st page of the thread you have some screen caps off of Summit Racing. I take it you used those fittings as they weren't included in the Tilton kit?

 

That was deleted the day I discovered it, don't miss it in the slightest.

Was causing some wacky hang up issues where with the original plastic clutch pedal that had a socket and ball joint rather than a positive clevis connection where you would depress the clutch begin to ease off the pedal would come off the MC rod and then the accumulator would pass fluid and the rod would pop up and slam into the pedal with a surprise clutch engagement.

I think that was one of the first mods I did during my first week of ownership.

By the way the new fangled FJ pedal and most recent turn over spring has been treating me quite well, I did have to transfer the CC plunger nut to the bottom and bring up the CSC plunger but everything just makes enough contact without further customization.

Clutch pedal is a little high for my liking making the travel a little far for my preferences but the effort required is tollerable now so I'm learning to live with it.

 

The anti-rotation pin doesn’t require absolutely perfect alignment. It’s just got to be in the hole. I’d say you’ve got 1-2mm margin for error there. Do make sure it’s all square though. So, drill and tap your holes on a drill press. Not by hand.

For my setup, with the RC trans, the lines on the Tilton unit were long enough to reach the OE hardline where it had originally threaded into that damper. I just carefully re-bent that hard line to get it pointed to where I needed it. The Earls adapter I posted connects the Tilton braided line to the hardline.



The other “fitting” I posted is a fixed bleeding point for the bleed line. It’s easier to use since it’s not just a loose line flopping around.

 

I would be very surprised if it hasn't already been considered but doesn't the T56/6060 use a HRB? No way to make a plate to bolt it to and then affix the assembly to the bell housing?

 

URD used to make a kit that adapted a t56 bearing to the ra60 trans, but that had its own set of issues with the bearing face mating up to the oe Toyota pressure plate.

this bracket shown here is what use to come with the kit to use a t-56 style bearing

 

Thanks Bill! This clears up everything. I think I've got all the information mentally sorted. I made a list of all the things that I'll be doing myself and all the things I'll have the shop do for me (not super comfortable dropping the trans in my small garage). I'll report back here if I run into any hiccups. By the way Bill, you're still happy with your HRB setup I'm assuming? No problems?

My plan is to tackle this project over the fall/winter when I don't drive the truck anymore. If @XPOTRPR hasn't already made a batch of the bushings by then, I will certainly make a small batch of bushings and pin-holder brackets. Might as well since I'll already have to have come up with one of each for myself.

 

I guess just let me know whatever you guys come up with. If you have dims or a drawing I can model it up. Or if you have one already I can get a quicker quote and idea on everything.

 

The ball is in Bill's court on that.

 

We’re talking about .0015” interference fit. I think it would be best if @XPOTRPR had a piston and a bearing in hand to get the dimensions just right. Once he measures everything himself, he could then spin a few out and then we’d be all bueno.

That being said, I don’t have any more of those parts to play with. Mine is installed in the truck.

 

I wasn't implying you make more bushings on your old faithful, I just meant that it was up to you if you wanted to divulge your dimensions to the rest of the forum or not.

Still no issues with your Tilton HRB setup? How many miles have you clocked on it now?

 

The dimensions are certainly not a secret. Basically 45mm od. 40mm id. And about 12mm tall. Needs mic’s on parts to get it perfect tho.

So far mine has been flawless. Roughly 5k miles so far. Not a lot, I realize.

 

I've begun the parts collection process.

@BillDaCat8 did you order the Tilton parts right off the website or through a Kirk? And do you remember what size holes you made in the half-moon plugs? I'd like to get my plug underway but don't have the hoses in front on me to measure.