6MT throwout bearing and clutch system shenanigans

Don't send me anything! I'm doing what any manufacturer ought to be doing. Reputation is everything and I need to start somewhere. I'm working towards self-employment in the not-so-distant future and this project is good practice.

Hang tight and I'll get these fixed up and sent out on the weekend.

 

How about a RC62F with the VF4B?

 

Oh man! Build thread? DCLB? What do you do when you need to do sweet, sweet donuts?

 

Access cab. Just grip and go. lol
I think I posted some of it, I just don't remember where.

 

@super g , @DesertRatliff , @rheath08 (complete kit) : Your reworked RC62F ARPB's are on their way. Look for a cardboard envelope in the mail.

I was in a rush to bang them out so they aren't as gorgeous as the originals. But like my old boss always said: those parts ain't going to the moon, Kellen.

 

Thanks so much Kellan! I'm stoked. I need to butter up the shifter hole in my trans tunnel and am waiting on a spray can of 1D6 Silver Sky Metallic to touch it up so was stoked to not have to rush the gearbox install. Really appreciate you, buddy. Thanks

 

@Kasbien - after several months, I finally got around to installing my new clutch/pp and tilton hrb. While not finished yet, I’m taking a little break to hydrate, and to send some early feedback on your kit.

For reference, my truck has 150k, still in the first clutch. Plenty of friction material left, replacing due failed damper springs in clutch plate (causing overly jerky takeoff if not feathered very gently). Notes from installing your kit:

• I have ~ 1/64-1/32 play b/t quill spacer and quill tube. However quill spacer seated very snug around the base. No lateral play once spacer was firmly seated.
• I ended up using 2 spacers under the anti rotation bracket, and the smallest anti rotation pin installed through backside of the Hilton unit and then into the anti rotation bracket
• As for setting the throw out bearing back spacing, mine needed to be set at 4.25 inches from the lip of the bellhousing. Note I replaced the clutch/pp with Oem units.
• I’ve also attached a pic of the back spacing tool I welded up with some scrap which worked pretty well. Thanks @BillDaCat8- I followed your design I saw in an earlier post

All in all, I think it’s a well designed kit, and I really appreciate the ‘optionality’ you have included to ensure we all are able to dial in our setups. Solid engineering and solid service my man! Happy to answer any other questions you have!

 

Here’s a few more on how I measured the pressure plate depth.

 

Did your quill have a small step where it meets the radius (at the base)? The inside diameter of the quill spacer should be oversized around the quill on the RA60F until it's over that step.

Thanks for taking the time out of your day to share this. Glad it's working out!

 

Yes it did in fact. I didn’t catch that there was a feature on the quill spacer that accounted for step on the base of the quill. That explains the ‘interlock’ fit once the spacer was seated.

 

That's good. I feared that it might vary per casting (which would be difficult to account for). The RC62F, on the other hand, does not have a step - so I make the quill spacers different.

 

Great idea! I'm still awaiting my new ARPB so have some time to steal this idea and re-check my measurement. Thanks for posting.

 

Nothing yet?

 

Just checked the mailbox and it's there. Yes! Thanks bud! And it looks great, too. Definitely worth the wait.

I got family in town this week but next is looking free and clear for trans install. Stoked!!! Thanks again

 

Good good. I'd be pissed if it went missing...

 

I installed this setup on my 2013 FJ and everything went well. Gap set perfectly, pedal adjusted etc. Everything feels great and drives nicely. No noises etc. Probably have 50 miles on the setup.

I do have a concern that I wanted to get input on though. If I take off the inspection cover and watch the release bearing assembly while the engine is running with the transmission in neutral, it is apparent that the tilton piston is rotating ever so slowly in its bore. I measure approximately 2 RPM with the vehicle somewhat cold. After a longer trip the piston is almost stationary and the bearing outer race is rotating at engine speed. This appears to be related to the friction in the new bearing vs. the friction on the piston wiper, as that is actually the only thing stopping the tilton piston from rotating. A warmer bearing is reducing the viscosity of the grease and spinning easier than when cold. Again, no noise whatsoever. I just was curious and wanted to see what was going on in there with the engine running.

The OEM Toyota bearing I used was the one specified in the kit and it felt smooth, but with some resistance, like a new wheel bearing would feel like. I called tilton and got a pretty useless generic response like the tilton piston shouldn't be spinning. I agreed but pointed out that there is absolutely nothing stopping it from doing so if there is even moderate resistance in the bearing. I guess I am hoping that the bearing will break in and the tilton piston will stop rotating all together but something in me says this is wishfull thinking.

I am guessing it would last this way for a long time, but long term it will surely fail prematurely with a rotation in the piston bore. Can anyone else check this on their setup and let me know what you find? I found it very useful to hit the side of the piston with a small spot of red paint marker (on the end of a dowel with the engine off) so that there was an obvious reference point.

I cringe at the thought of having to pull this thing apart again, but also really need to be able to trust it.

 

Is your clutch pedal itself adjusted with free play under the dash? 1/4"-3/8" is typical amount of play before the slave cylinder rod should start to stroke

 

Hi.

Well, that certainly doesn’t sound like a good situation. Although, I don’t think that it’s time to pull it all apart just yet.

As you’ve mentioned, the bearing itself is fairly stiff feeling when brand new. I think that is what is causing this. I would suggest breaking it in while parked for a bit. Hold the pedal down (be sure your throw has been adjusted properly first!) and rev the motor a bit. Not super fast or anything. Like 1500-2500 rpm. The holding of the pedal down while revving will obviously prevent piston rotation and the revs will assist in bearing break-in. I WOULD NOT suggest revving the motor very fast while the pedal is up until this issue is resolved tho! Which is why I’m suggesting you do this while parked. I’m thinking like a 30 minute session. 2 minutes on, 2 minutes off. Sort of simulating stop-n-go traffic without the friction tho (do it in neutral).

As you mentioned, the only thing about the Tilton HRB design that really would combat the turning of the piston is the bright orange wiper/seal that keeps gunk from getting into the bore. When I was messing with things I removed that wiper temporarily to make it easier for me to slide the piston in and out of the HRB. When it was in place, the piston was held quite stiffly in its bore. Now, if that wiper piece was not present, or otherwise compromised/made wrong, I could picture that piston doing the ole do-si-do on ya. Got any pictures of your setup as it was going together?

 

Thanks! The orange seal was for sure present during installation. I have been driving it around for the last week and it still feels and sounds great. I need to pull the cover off and see if the bearing has broken in yet, which is what I am hoping for. I like your idea of running it with the clutch depressed for a half hour or so. Might give that a try. I figure if it doesn't stop rotating after maybe 500 miles I will consider there to be a problem.

The thing is, there was never an indication that something was wrong, so if you didn't intentionally pull the cover out of curiosity you would never know this is happening. I would love to see someone else's setup with the engine running for comparison.

Piston travel was adjusted with the addition of a stop to the pedal to go 1/4" pedal travel past the disengagement point of the clutch. It looks like the piston might travel 3/8" plus the 1/8" of air gap that is taken up the first time the system is pressurized.

The pedal does also have around 1/4" of free play before the master cylinder moves. Pictures below:

 

Out of curiously, whats the lifespan like on this setup. I'm interested just for the improved cold weather performance of the slave cylinder being contained in warmth but don't wanna do it if you have to replace it with every clutch change. Bearing is understandable but the hydraulics i've noticed are quite expensive.