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7-Pin Trailer Harness/Plug Replacement Tip

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Lute, Jul 25, 2013.

  1. Jul 25, 2013 at 1:53 PM
    #1
    Lute

    Lute [OP] Member

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    Hi All,

    If you break your factory Tacoma 7-Pin trailer plug / harness, you will be sorry to find out it costs about $200 from Toyota for a replacement. Apparently Toyota only sells it as a kit, you cannot get the plug and harness separately.

    I can't take full credit for the following tip; the original post by 'Jake The Wolf' (thanks Jake!) on this website tipped me to the core of the solution, but I thought I'd add my experience to offer a better overview.

    Honda has the identical plug available as a plug w/harness by itself, sold for the Ridgeline. The Honda part # is 32113-SJC-A00 and lists for $49.62. HOWEVER, the connector that plugs into the OEM harness on your truck is different.

    Rather than cut and splice wires, what I did was I disassembled the plug, then swapped the individual pins. To do this, insert a small screwdriver into each of the four slots on the side of the plug body and push the clips out of the slots. Next, use a pair of needle-nose pliers to grab a male blade terminal in the socket, and pull the center plug socket out of the plug body. You will then see a white plastic retainer plate which covers the female blade terminals. Remove the plate by pulling it up with a small hook. At this point, you will see that each female blade terminal is retained into the plug body with a small clip; using a very small flathead screwdriver, gently pull the clip away from the blade terminal while pulling the corresponding wire out the back end of the plug body. One by one, swap each wire w/ terminal from the old plug to the new, and voila- you have an OEM plug with your OEM harness, no need to hack the wiring up!
     
    ptc075, MotoMoose68, Slashaar and 8 others like this.
  2. Sep 23, 2013 at 7:54 PM
    #2
    colbyrainey

    colbyrainey Well-Known Member

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    Do you have the part number for this kit? Mine is missing both the plug and harness and I'm looking for the best way to find one.
     
    Scooter WCT likes this.
  3. Sep 24, 2013 at 2:52 PM
    #3
    Lute

    Lute [OP] Member

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    I referenced the part number for the Honda part which can only be used in the manner I described- as a repair for the existing Toyota 7-Pin trailer harness. If your harness is 'missing', I would wonder if it ever had the trailer kit installed in the first place. Toyota sells two different kits which come with the wiring harness, the wiring converter, the bracket and the harness plug- one is the 4-pin style, one the 7-pin style. If you don't already have the hardware in place, I believe you will need to get one of the kits from Toyota, rather than just the plug I referenced above.
     
  4. Sep 25, 2013 at 4:30 PM
    #4
    colbyrainey

    colbyrainey Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the info - I'll look to Toyota for this.
     
  5. Sep 25, 2013 at 6:19 PM
    #5
    stump jumper

    stump jumper Well-Known Member

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    I bought a plug for like $15 at Wally World cut the wires and put some flat spade connectors. I drew a wiring diagram before cutting. I wish Toyota would mount these things in the bumper. I guess that would be too difficult because they would have 2 bumpers. I found that if I leave my hitch in it offers some protection.
     
    koditten likes this.
  6. Jul 23, 2015 at 10:41 AM
    #6
    WhiteWalkerTaco

    WhiteWalkerTaco Well-Known Member

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    This is by far the best way to repair the broken trailer connector I have found on TW! Thank you Lute for the directions on swapping the connector! Was a little confused at first but once I realized you were swapping the actual trailer connector and not the connector that connects to the truck's wiring harness (pictures would have helped) it was easy! Still waiting for the Honda harness to come in, but when it does I will already be halfway there! Much better route than splicing in an aftermarket connector!
     
  7. Jul 24, 2015 at 9:19 AM
    #7
    ranger098

    ranger098 Well-Known Member

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    http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...Adapter-Tow-Vehicle/_/R-NDP7552145_0373950438

    This is literally the exact same part that comes on the truck from the factory, right at Napa. (the second image on napa's site isnt the same as what i got, might be a slightly different product in store). Heres a step by step:

    take the harness out of the mount on the truck (8mm bolts i think), and disconnect the harness up behind the bumper so you can go to your workbench with it.
    use a flathead screwdriver to remove the one screw holding the outside housing on the harness, and push on the wires to pop the housing loose from the plug.
    Cut the exposed wires as short as possible, leaving a little of the colored jacket to reference the wire locations
    strip the ends of the wire and put them into the new harness, following using the old harness to see where to connect each wire (you could use a spade connector or something if you like)
    install back into the trucks mount, and use elecrical tape to seal up the hole where the wires enter the housing so water doesnt get in there.

    I was shocked and sooo happy to see this harness at my local napa store. My old harness had salt and water getting in there and corroded the wiring so bad that certain wires were totally disconnected. This is a direct replacement and costs like 10 bucks!
     
  8. Feb 3, 2016 at 10:54 PM
    #8
    iJDub

    iJDub Well-Known Member

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    Anyone have the wiring diagram for this? I had taken the wiring out before tagging it and I don't think the colors align with the standard colors cause one of them was switched around when I was using a 4 pin setup.
     
  9. Apr 28, 2016 at 7:37 PM
    #9
    Whiplash777

    Whiplash777 Well-Known Member

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    I just completed this swap out today using Lute's instructions in the first post.

    Here is the new Honda harness:
    1 - Harness.jpg

    There is a nice L-cover over the rear of the plug (the one on my truck was missing):
    2 - L-Cover.jpg

    Pop the clips and you get this:
    3 - L-Cover removed.jpg

    The four clips to hold the core of the plug:
    4 - Plug clips.jpg

    Removing the core of the plug:
    5 - removing plug.jpg

    Here is the removed plug and the O-ring that seals it:
    6 - Plug and O Ring.jpg

    Here is the socket with the plug core removed:
    7 - Socket with plug removed.jpg

    I carefully used a pair of needlenose pliers to remove the white internal cap (the tolerances are tight and it is a little tough to get out):
    8 - White cap.jpg

    Internal base with white cap removed:
    9 - Base of plug.jpg

    I got tired of holding the door open and trying to work in the plug so I carefully put a pair of locking pliers on it:
    10 - Using pliers to hold open the door.jpg

    The back of the plug:
    11 - Back of plug.jpg

    Using a small screwdriver to release the clips on the base connectors:
    12 - Clips for connectors.jpg

    Some of the wires removed:
    13 - Some of the wires removed.jpg

    All wires removed:
    14 - All connectors removed.jpg

    Completely disassembled:
    15 - Disassembly complete.jpg

    Reassembled on the truck:
    16 - Reassembled.jpg

    And here is why I needed to replace it (what's left of the old one):
    17 - What's left of the old plug.jpg

    The old retaining bolts sheared off, but the new plug is such a tight fit (I actually needed to use a rubber mallet to get it fully back in place) that I knew it wasn't going anywhere.

    I hope the photos help.
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2016
  10. Apr 28, 2016 at 7:43 PM
    #10
    TACOVRD

    TACOVRD I Identify As A Prius

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    Workin' on it....
    Tagged for future reference if needed... :thumbsup:
     
  11. Apr 28, 2016 at 11:19 PM
    #11
    IronPeak

    IronPeak PermaLurker

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    I like the OP solution, nice and cheap and keeps it factory..most important for most folks no wire cutting stripping....

    this is the route i went

    Destroyed mine on a rock, found this replacement for 22$, it upgrades the factory 7 round to 7 round and 4 flat, that overs 95%of towing ,then moved it. Where toyota hung these off the rear bumper is a known flaw, and as the OP noted, they want 200$ to replace it, nonsense. This mod does require cutting the wires at the old plug, the replacement plug below has screws to seat the wires, or use round ends, or round ends and solder, which is what I did .... kookoo I know.
    http://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-48470...psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages02

    Also requires hole saw or dremel if you want to do this step --Then I cut a hole in my bumper between my plate and plate light, mounted it there out of harms way.

    20160425_225727.jpg

    HM48470_5_500 (1).jpg HM48470_3_500 (1).jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2016
    MotoMoose68 and scocar like this.
  12. Sep 13, 2016 at 10:36 PM
    #12
    tamer

    tamer hamerworx.com

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    Thanks for this, super helpful, just a question, do the wires only fit into one slot? So when you reinstall the Tacoma wires you can't mess it up?
     
  13. Sep 13, 2016 at 10:48 PM
    #13
    WhiteWalkerTaco

    WhiteWalkerTaco Well-Known Member

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    No, they can fit in different slots, but the wire colors are virtually the same and they are pinned the same so just match the pin assignment from the Toyota one to the Honda one and use wire colors as a guide. You should be golden!
     
    TRDSport10 and tamer like this.
  14. Sep 14, 2016 at 7:33 PM
    #14
    Kerrigan911

    Kerrigan911 Well-Known Member

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    I went on Amazon and bought tow ready 20119 for $25. Cut the one plug and cut my busted toyota plug off. Then i used a multimeter to verify what wire goes to each pin. Finally solder wires and good to go. I also now have a 4 pin as well as the 7 pin
     
  15. Jan 14, 2017 at 7:39 PM
    #15
    NiteTaco

    NiteTaco Well-Known Member

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    Finally got around to doing this swap using the Honda part number today...great write-up! I would add that the only real challenge I had was getting the white insert out without chewing it up too badly. I found that if you take a thin metal coat hanger and bend a very small hook into the end of it with some pliers, you can use the hanger like a puller. You can fit it into little triangle holes and hook it from behind...hopefully this helps some else too.

    BTW, I'm also working on relocating it into the DS license plate light hole...hopefully tomorrow.
     
    Taco*Sauce06 and motormike like this.
  16. Mar 30, 2017 at 3:43 PM
    #16
    Bunio26

    Bunio26 Member

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    I am doing this replacement now, but having trouble getting mine disconnected so that I can do the switch! Please help! Thank you
     
  17. Mar 30, 2017 at 3:50 PM
    #17
    Sand Shark

    Sand Shark I dont pub crawl.when I do,I use pub crawl control

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    Badass write up...
     
  18. Mar 30, 2017 at 4:12 PM
    #18
    03f5sp

    03f5sp Well-Known Member

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    I bought a replacement plastic housing at Napa for $5 and mounted it in place of the license plate light. It looks factory and eliminates the possibility of smashing it again.
     
    TRDSport10 likes this.
  19. Apr 1, 2017 at 8:57 AM
    #19
    rjaneway34

    rjaneway34 Member

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    Thank you, OP. I completed this fix this morning and couldn't be happier!
     
  20. Jun 2, 2017 at 1:39 PM
    #20
    cbannister83

    cbannister83 I'm a d**che

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    Quick question for anyone that might know off hand. What color wire gives power to the reverse lights on the trailer? I have a 2014 if that makes a difference..
    Thanks
     

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