886 Backup light mod

35watt. I literally just tryed doing this mod. Broke both bleepity bleeping bleep bulbs trying to bend the dam metal pieces so now I need to get more but Home Depot is about a 30 min drive so I don't go there much. But auto zone is about 10 min up the road so I guess I'll try it with the 886 bulbs. Hopefully they have them.

 

I guess tomorrow I will do mine!!!

 

You aren't supposed to bend the pins.

Use a thin jeweler's screwdriver and poke it into the socket and bend the contacts in toward each other to make it more snug.

The gy6.35 bulbs then just plug right in 5 minute job.

 

The 35w lowes/home depot bulb bases are much wider than my stock bulbs. Is it enough to tighten the base connections then stick contacts in and not be able to stick any of the bulb base in? The bulbs will stay?

 

Mine went in with the glass butting up against the contacts. It fit into the little plastic "rectangle".
It's been in place now for what... 3 weeks? Both still worked last night.
The GLASS doesn't actually go down between the contacts the way the stock lamp did.

 

.Tapatalk fail. Wrong thread.

 

Looks normal to me

 

Sweet. Thanks.

 

Any complications using these higher wattage bulbs when towing a trailer using 7 pin harness?

 

Discussed before, factory system assumes you are running a pair of 18w lamps in the truck and another 18w lamps in the trailer (72w total).
Given this, we are 100% within factory spec running a single pair of 35w (70w total)

72/12 = 6a, factoring in standard engineering tolerances the stock fuse should be 7.5a (or greater.)

Now...

IG1: 10A − Back-up lights, air conditioning system, passenger airbag manual on−off switch, shift lock system

Total capacity of the system is 10a, engineered to run continuously at 8a or less.
If we pull 6a on the truck's backup lights and another 3a on the trailer, that puts us at 9a.
That is still under the 10a circuit limit, but is 1a above engineering tolerances... and leaves nothing for the rest of the circuits that are fed by the IG1 fuse.

However... the passenger airbag switch and shift lock are simple logic signals going to the ECU. Their current draw is basically nothing.
That leaves the AC system. The blower is on it's own, so we're looking at the load of the AC compressor clutch.

So... for the most part, as long as your AC is shut off, you'll be above tolerance, but safe up to around 120w total... okay with the 35w hardware store lamps, but using the 50w 886 backup light, will possibly blow the fuse with a trailer hooked up.... and I would not connect up a trailer and run the AC while backing up. The 50w pair by itself puts us at 8.3a.

If you blow IG1, you won't be able to get the shifter out of "P" without popping the hatch open and using the bypass.

 

Stopped by Autozone today on my way home from work to grab a pair of 886 bulbs (about $10 a piece).

The mod took me a total of 20 minutes, most of that time spent being extremely careful as I cut the bulb leads from the housing they came in to fit in the reverse light socket.

The first two pictures are of the stock back up lights and their spread in my garage. The third picture shows the difference between the two with the 886 installed on the left and stock on the right. And the final two pictures are with both 886 bulbs installed.

These things are bright as hell! I have to say that I am extremely happy with the outcome and would do it again in a heartbeat.

 

Just put in a set of these:


Easy peasy.

 

I just did this mod. It took less than 15 minutes. Nothing to it. I can't wait to see them in the dark.

 

Doing this mod tomorrow!! Getting the GY6.35 from Home depot and just plug and play.

 

I bought a pair of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-921-91...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a858983ba&vxp=mtr

They're plug and play and work great. No worries about fitment, power demands or heat generated.

 

Let me know how it works, cause I could not get that shit to fit in my 2013

 

Bulbs haven't changed in the 2013's right? Just have to "tighten" the metal contacts. They don't push all the way in like the stock bulb.

 

It's been quite a while since I attempted it, but IIRC, I couldn't get the fuckin thing to push in at all... Even tried grinding the edges. Maybe I was just stupid that night, I'll have to look at it again

 

I think the glass part pushed in a little bit into the plastic. It was enough so, that I was comfortable knowing they wouldn't fall out. I don't remember it being to tight of a fit. The glass itself I believe only made it to just where the contacts start. The metal prongs where the only thing going down into the contacts. Hence tightening them up. Maybe something changed on the 2013's plastics.

 

This.
Pins completely seated, glass up against the contacts.