90915-YZZD1 Vs 90915-YZZD3?

you can use the D3 on the 2.7l but the D1 are becoming more cost friendly http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ten-10-9091...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 with gaskets

 

Donaldson and Baldwin both. These are major manufacturers that can verify what filtration and flow is needed on Toyota engines. Even more specifically the 2.7 2TR-FE and 3RZ-FE which share the same engine block architecture.

 

Also an absolute rating is 98.5% or greater.

Here is a link to some basic filtration information.

http://www.baldwinfilter.com/TechTips201403.html

 

If Toyota could filter down to 2 microns with 98.5% or greater efficiency they could in theory filter out the majority of the carbon found in the oil system. Bypass filtration can filter down extremely low and I have used them in the past to clean crankcases from heavy soot loading. Carbon particulates can go as low as 0.5 micron and up to 2 micron in size.

 

If the 2 micrron rating you gave was correct it would trap the larger carbon particulates.
I never mentioned what is an issue just a comparison of what a 2 micron element can capture.

I would like to see hard evidence via documentation of filter holding capacity. Your word alone is meaningless. Again you seem to have gotten stuck on my comparison of carbon being filtered from the lube oil. See response comment above for clarification.

Where have you received these values? 10 micron is excellent filtration but without documentation these values are meaningless.



Now before you decide to make an additional comment please find the documents proving the Toyota Thailand filters are superior. If you prrovide these docs in some shape or fashion and your information is accurate I will retract my previous statements.

 

Interesting as I have never bothered to look into the D3 filter,

Until this past Sunday when I was changing the oil on the 2000 Land Cruiser and guess what filter it calls for? Yup the D3...

If the D3 is good enough for a Japanese built 4.7L V8 engine that has over 400K on it it's certainly good enough for my 2.7L I4 with 32K, hahaha

 

My 13 V6 came with a D1 filter on it from the factory , when I went back to the dealer to buy the oil filter for its first oil change they gave me a D3 and acted like they never heard of the D1 filter. They told me the D1 was just a factory filter.

 

I have 3 or 4 of the D1's sitting I my garage from when I had a 2.7. If someone wants them I'll ship them to you for the cost of shipping or so. Send me a PM!

 

I recently did: 2005 2.7L w/ 214,300 miles - stock truck w/ no lift, no failures of any kind... I've used Mobile 1 0W30 & YZZD1 filter for 95% of the oil changes, but this time I decided to go w/ Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 and YZZD3. Truck didn't like it, and upon startup in 40-45 degree weather was sounding like piston slap or valve knock, for about the first 10 seconds and went away. 3-4 different start-ups in 40-45 degree weather or mid-day in 60 degrees, valve knock/pistol slap. I yanked the D3 and put a D1 back on, and it stopped.

The Pennzoil is a touch thicker than I've used in it in YEARS, and with the ECU re-learn... dunno really why it started doing that, but the truck drives & sounds like a new 2.7L even at 15 years and 214k, so I think it was the D3.

 

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx...ne-oil-filter-90915-yzzd1-vs-90915-yzzd3.html

 

Did you happen to "prime" the new filter first (i.e. fill it with new oil before installing it)? If not, my guess is that the larger filter caused the oil system to delay building pressure, which starved the hydraulic valve tappets. The knocking/clattering sound should go away once the oil system gets up to pressure, maybe a few seconds.

I use the yzzd1 filter and always prime it. It will hold almost half a quart of oil. I imagine the longer ones would hold a bit more, maybe 2/3 - 3/4 quart?