95.5 Tacoma 4x4 DX 2.7 Ext Cab steering rack parts

I did some "off-roading" last weekend. I mean driving on some dirt roads between crop fields, where only farm tractors would drive. Tacoma did great in 2L setup (that is 4x4 Low with front manual hubs disconnected) navigating through deep dry potholes rocks and 4ft high vegetation.

However in such driving condition the annoying knocks in the steering were very, very annoying. I could feel each bump on the steering wheel knocking down below. This is what service confirmed (and what I found years, years and miles ago) that there is a vertical play and kind of knocking in the steering rack. It is not from inner tie rods, not from bushing. It is in the steering rack guts, with movement visible on the driver side. When I pull the driver side boot, the rack can be moved up and down a bit. Right side is solid.

I suspect it is the famous "roller type steering rack guide" problem as I still have the original 95.5 rack. I don't want to replace this almost perfectly good OEM steering rack, especially that it is still better than some Chinese knock-offs. I have no leaks, no side play, no steering wheel loose. All is tight like a chastity belt .

So I will try to fix this annoying issue by upgrading to the new version of steering rack guide, the one without a roller. Timmah! put together excellent video Steering Rack Guide Replacementdoing this job for 4Runner (I love your videos, Tim) showing part numbers used. Keep in mind, I'm in Poland, so to get Tacoma parts takes quite a lead time, not like in US you go to Toyota dealer and pick it up of the shelf. Could anyone confirm these part numbers would fit my rack (original OEM 95.5 4x4)? Any on-line checking would fail, as obviously they show only "roller type" parts compatible. These are the parts of Tim's video (with Cammelback prices/MRSP):

45504-35031 GUIDE S/A, RACK 50.81/69.27
90501-26074 SPRING, COMPRESSION 2.06/2.82
45524-37010 Housing assy cap 18.14/24.74
90179-48003 Housing assy nut 1.20/1.64

Thanks.

 

Hmm. Nobody? Many threads about replacing steering rack or bushing, but nobody can chime in for rack guide? I read that all racks for 1st gen 4x4 are the same. They also interchange between 90+ 4Runner and some other exotic Toyotas from other continents. But that guessing can be expensive. I would like not to guess in that case.

If you can't confirm these part numbers, what parts can you confirm?

 

So after trying different vendors I pulled the trigger on partsouq.com. The problem with USA vendors is that they don't ship out of USA or guys who do international orders have quite extreme shipping cost and overhead.

I found partsouq on ebay with decent price for these parts, but on ebay they don't do combine shipping. So I found their on-line store where they actually have better stock and combined shipping. I never ordered anything from Dubai, so this will be interesting experience for me. If everything goes well I will have three out of four parts for $66.50 including shipping (they are missing a locking nut, but I can reuse my existing nut or order it locally from Toyota as they have it in Belgium warehouse).

I wish trdparts.com does ship to Poland - I have only good experience with their prices and customer service. Same with camelback toyota. But either company does not do international orders (as far as I know).

Now, when I pay attention to this knocking, I can hear it on every bump. I know this is more me than the truck itself, but the feeling is just killing me. There are many noises driving this truck on a bumpy road: clanking of rear leaf springs, usb stick bouncing in a glove compartment, rattling rock on the skid plate and many other sounds. But all I can hear is the knocking in the steering rack. Driving me nuts.


An because here is the copy of my invoice :



Wish me luck.

 

I recently went through this. Here is the link. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/im-guess-my-steering-rack-is-worn-out-vid.487994/

 

Thanks for sharing. This is exactly what I have. Now waiting for my order to come to me. Just like most Toyota parts suppliers the place you order from, does not ship outside of USA

I'm curious you shown on the video the knocking also on the pass side. Replacing the guide fixed that too?

And last, slightly related question: where do you put the jack for lifting the whole front end before setting the frame on the jack stands? Or you lift side by side?

 

I'm happy to help. I hope you find a good place to buy parts. I try to use my local dealer when the price is right, but I have found that the online stores are a good bit cheaper. Both videos are from the driver side. I did show a picture from the passenger side because it was so much cleaner. When I took the pictures, I thought the grime on the drivers side was dirt and grime and I was showing the difference. As it turns out, the black stuff is a some type of factory grease.

I usually jack the vehicle from the frame but sometimes place the jack under the outer end of the lower A arm.

 

Thank for the info. When I visit USA I come back with additional bag of 50 lb parts, tools and gadgets. The last trip brought me back all OEM ball joints, Redline hood lift, Amazon bumper lights and few tools and other stuff. 50 lb, that is what airlines allow me. I wish I knew about the rack guide then.

Regarding jacking the front, on all Timmy's videos he has the stand jack under the frame of his 4Runner, but never shows where exactly he pumps the jack to rise the frame. Is it done side by side or there is a jacking point which will lift the whole front at once?

 

Funny story about coming to US and toting parts back.

Heck, since your only replacing the bushing kit, you don't even really have to jack the truck up. Beware that the 5/8" hex used to screw the bushing nut in is tough to get in there because of the sway bar but I managed to leave my sway bar on.

 

We have a saying here "When you are in need, you have to improvise, like lashing up shoes using and earthworm"

For cleaning and lubrication I would have to move the wheels left and right. Hard to do on the ground. Also for final adjustment (after 19 degrees back) I would use a "feel" on the steering wheel to be similar as before the swap. For that I need no resistance from a wheels.

I have 2 ton ramps for any work under the truck where I don't need to take out wheels. But this time I need wheels off the ground.

 

Your right, I forgot about that detail.

 

Following your repair, but can't help, not having done a rack.

 

Tim replied with very informative explanation how to lift the truck for this job. In short, the cross member next to steering rack is beefy enough to put a hydraulic jack and lift the front at once. Then position two jack stands under the frame, like it is shown on his videos (for example https://youtu.be/r4Hhl225E8A?t=3m48s).

Now just waiting for my parts to be shipped.

 

I just got email that my order is shipped . I hope it will arrive before the next weekend, so I can work on my truck next Saturday.

I had some concerns about adjusting preload on rack guide spring. The procedure calls for torquing the cap to 18ft-lb then baking up by 19 degrees. But this is just a point to settle the rack relatively to the guide, as FSM calls for moving rack left and right 1 or 2 times, loosening the cap to unload the spring and then the real adjustment starts (point e in the picture below).



Tim in his video above went by feel which is one way to go. If you are driving your truck for years, you would know how it should feel. On the other hand I could be driving my truck with out of spec tension for so long, that what I feel as normal might be completely wrong.

The "normal" should be 4.3 - 14.3 in-lbf on the steering wheel. That is quite wide range, so going by feel might be right thing to do. Maybe I'm overthinking the problem but this is what I'm going to do:
1. Disconnect outer tie rods.
2. Steering wheel is 15 inch diameter, so turning force on the wheel should be 0.6lb - 1.9lb. Using digital fish scale I will measure the force on the steering wheel I have now. I hope it will be within the spec.
3. After replacing the guide I will adjust the cap so the measured force on the wheel is within the spec I assume .

What do you think about this redneck procedure? To gettho?


Edit: I just thought about better (easier) way without disconnecting the outer tie rods. Measure the the force on the wheel with cap retracted and then torque the cup to increase the force by 1lb or so. I guess it can work too.

EDIT2: Now DHL shows expected delivery on Wednesday.

 

My HS physics teacher would approve

 

Now on the long nut thing. Tim used 5/8 nut which has the wrench size 15/16 that is 23.8mm. I think it is save to assume that Toyota made it actually metric 24mm. I checked my local hardware store for "long nuts". You guys have easy access to imperial size so 15/16 works for you, I'm in the "metric country" so 24mm works for me. This is common nut used for M16 threaded rod. In hardware store they have 15 pieces bag for $1.50. Not bad.

Now I have my shopping list to do on Monday: Long M16 nut and blue loctite (I'm out of blue) from hardware store, 90179-48003 Housing assy nut from local Toyota dealer (they can order it in Belgium to arrive in 3 days). Hopefully I will solve my knocking problem once for all.

 

Sounds like you have a good plan. I hope all goes smoothly for you.

 

Obviously 15pcs bag was a unit how they pack, not how they sell. With current exchange rate it was $1.20 per piece. Oh well I only need one so I will live with that.
I also ordered 90179-48003 Housing assy nut from local Toyota. The total cost is $1.70, will arrive Thursday. And finally my United Arab Emirates is at customs here. I just got an email from DHL to dill up customs information. It will be quite interesting to find out how much they will charge me for that.

 

I talk to DHL customs lady, and all looks good, no customs fees. I will need to pay only VAT (23%). If it is all I am still in black. $66.50 + 23% = $81.80 for three top parts.

 

Looking good, looking good. I gotta see your results when you get the bushing into that rack. I think your process on the torque specs using the fish scale will be good. I've used that in the past. I now keep a digital fish scale with my tools.

 

Life is good . DHL truck arrived, I paid VAT (23%) and got my parts delivered.



Note: it is really only one spring in the bag, not 10.
This is really good deal for me: price like on-line in USA, and less than a week from placing an on line order to delivery. I will be checking PartSouq.com more often.

I can't figure out how local Toyota is going to give me the nut tomorrow I ordered few days back, as tomorrow is national holiday (Corpus Christi Day) and all businesses are closed. I guess (and hope) it will be available on Friday.