96 5vz xcab 4x4 TACO TURBO BUILD

So, I really need your advice gio......I am setting up my charge pipes. Should I put my maf, with 4" to 2.5" and 2.75" reducers respectively, directly right after the intake air filter, or on the straight section before the tb? It seems that you stated smoother operation putting it just before the turbo compressor intake.

And if you did please snap a pic.......I'd like to see how you ran that. Especially since we have the same maf.

Did you use 3/32 rod or 1/16 ss for your exhaust?

 

Edit: going to put the maf pre turbo for sure! Thx......

 

Lol yeah man... I will say though that it did stall on me one time. I did a first gear pull in an empty parking lot and threw it in neutral immediately after, then I guess all of the air rushed out passed the MAF and made my truck stall. If you put it in gear right after full boost or tap the gas pedal when coming to a stop then it won't be a problem. Use the biggest rods that your welder can handle. Small diameter rods make really crappy beads.

If your turbo inlet is 4", then get a silicone 4"-3" reducer. I haven't experienced any issues by attaching the air filter straight to the MAF inlet.

 

Stock MAF needs to be mounted on a 2.75" pipe or it won't work. You will be running way too lean.

 

Mine works perfectly clamped right in between the turbo inlet and the air filter
All 3"

 

Not positive but I think Andrew has the plug maf, not the one piecer.

 

This.

 

Damn, all this talk of putting the MAF pre-turbo, I may hop on that boat too. Didn't realize it ran better that way. I'm thinking that because the MAF and IAT are pre-turbo, the ECU isn't seeing the hot temps the turbo produces? Where as if you had it post turbo, the ECU sees that the air is much hotter, and retards timing some? Not sure, just a guess.

 

Keep in mind, the placement of the MAF should be for bettering idle and daily driving. It should be placed IAW the tube size it was designed for. If you can find a MAF that can fit on 3" or 4" tube, knock yourself out. The stock MAF shouldn't be run on anything other than 2.75" tube for best results.

When you are boosting, you will/should be using the MAP to tune. If you program your piggy back correctly, the ECU should not see the boost through the MAF. You kind of want the ECU to see air temps, but you will be tuning and can correct for temps, etc... You should probably have a winter and summer tune TBH.

The AEM FIC allows two tunes you can switch between I believe.

 

Maf is going pre turbo. No bov. No tune. + methanol = 12 or more psi.

 

Sounds like a plan

 

His (and my) year of MAF is designed for 3" in and out pipes. Pre turbo readings have shown to give the best daily driveability and idle over post turbo placement. The only downside is that my wideband reads 11-12 for half a second at the very most when I engage the clutch or throw it in neutral after hard acceleration. This is not enough to throw codes or use any significant amount of extra fuel.

 

I was gonna ask if the loss of air from bov post maf was really enough to matter, since it would just run a little rich for a moment, and a little rich is way better than a lil lean. I guess with higher boost it may be a bigger issue. While there are several turboers subd to this thread i figure ill troll some e85 thought from yall, i assume josh would see little to no benefit since he sparys meth but feel free to chime in.

 

E85 is generally better than race gas for a turbo setup.

As for the BOV, when the throttle body suddenly shuts at boost, that's a lot of metered air getting dumped. Sometimes it just causes a 'hiccup' but it can also cause the engine to just stall.

 

I've been thinking about E85 as well. It requires something like ~30% more fuel flow than gasoline, so I've been contemplating throwing in Supra green top injectors I have which flow 315cc/min. Those flow around ~30% more than the stock 245cc injectors. Swap in the larger injectors, full up with E85, and I'm thinking that the ECU will never know the difference, and you'll have a fuel that's much less prone to detonating.

The downside is that you won't get as many miles per tank with E85 as you would with gasoline, so you're filling up more often. And since the nearest E85 station is 30 minutes away, I'm not sure I want the hassle of having to drive an hour round trip just to fill up. And then if I go out of town, I have to plan where all the E85 stations are. But the price for E85 is tempting.

 

You will need to tune it for e85. If your ECU tries to drive like regular gas, your truck will suck. The 'octane' rating is higher than race gas. You also have to get an e85 pump and change out the rubber fuel lines for e85 compatible lines.

Great for turbo builds because you can run higher boost, compression, and even advance the spark.

 

Go with methanol. Windshield wiper fluid is everywhere. Install a larger fill tank and you will be good for several fill ups. Well worth the initial investment imo, plus you don't need all the standalone/piggybackness. No major tuning involved besides adjusting your spray.

 

Do I need to weld in a bung after the cat too? I thought I could just put them in the bungs that are in the cx downpipe.

 

The CX kit comes with one wideband sensor bung and one stock 2-bolt O2 sensor bung. You will need to either weld in a second bung for the post cat sensor or get an O2 simulator.

 

Good to know. Will pick up an ss bung asap......where did you get that bung from, having a hard time finding that oval shaped mount.

Edit: found one. It's just steel, but should weld up ok to the ss.