96 5vz xcab 4x4 TACO TURBO BUILD

I'll have to watch my afr next time I go up. I'm wondering if I should download the aem software so I can eventually play around with the settings on my own. Ugh, lots of other stuff to do first I suppose

 

That would be nice in case you needed to make a quick change to the table for whatever reason.

 

OK, here we go.

Holset HY35W fits with just enough room:




Looks like some heat wrap/blanket/shielding will be required for my AC and brake lines, as well as my coil wires.

If there's any interest, I'll post a build thread in a Tundra forum and link it. There just isn't much enthusiast base in 5vz Tundras, and this will be a pretty basic setup on a mostly stock truck.

What did you guys do with the line to the IAC valve off of the stock intake? Is it OK to feed it boost or do I need to run it pre-turbo?

Thanks.

 

Tundra! Sweet!

Not sure what you are referring too here.

 

Nice! Keep in mind that turbo is going to be turned about 25-30 degrees clockwise from how you have it on that top picture if you use the CX headers... not sure if that helps or not. You can leave the AIC alone, as it's only in use in closed loop vacuum anyway. I zip tied my A/C hose(s) to some holes in the wheel well.

 

This guy:



Maybe it's different on the Tacos.

 

Thanks. I'll just add a port for the IAC in the charge pipe.

I'm fabbing up a manifold out of some stock exhaust parts. The 2001+ exhaust manifolds are stamped steel, so I won't be trying to weld a bunch of stuff to cast iron.

 

That's the rear vent for your PCV system. Remove it and get a one way check valve and small filter to allow air to enter but not exit from the vent in your block.

 

You sure you're talking about the IAC valve? All the hoses for that are tucked under the throttle blade

 

Whoa. Glad I asked. No boost goes in there!

 

Everything that connects to the stock intake piping should not see any boost with the exception of the FPR depending on how/if you tune your fuel. The only vac line you need to worry about is that 3/8" (or 8mm) one on the very right side of the last pic you posted that sits right on top of the upper plenum barely past the throttle body. That one gets a small nylon check valve.

 

Gotcha. That makes sense. Thanks again.

The plan is to run ~5psi with the FPR seeing boost signal for enrichment- stock injectors, MAF and ECU. I'll keep close tabs on AFR with a wideband. If I want more power, I'll add meth injection somewhere down the line, but the goal is to add a little power, especially at altitude when it's full of mtb/moto/ski/camping gear without compromising reliability. It's not a daily driver, but it needs to be trustworthy for trips to the boonies.

 

The trick is to get a 4 psi wastegate (because I don't think they make a 5) and connect the boost reference just barely pre-throttle body, because there is about a 1 psi difference between the air coming directly out of the turbo compressor fitting and the air just pre-TB due to the thermo and flow effects of the intercooler.
I'm right there with you on the meth injection. I won't bother with it unless I turn up the boost to 8 psi, which is highly unlikely due to the fact that I want my truck with 260k miles to stay as reliable as possible with minimal maintenance. My truck is a DD and an off-road/moto/ski/camping trip horse, and 5 psi has been wonderful for me

 

I've been struggling with a bad misfire under boost. Feels identical to a WOT pull in limp mode with a knock sensor fault that I also had to deal with a few months ago. I replaced the spark plugs and gapped the new ones down to 30~ thousandths (32 IIRC). It solved the problem for a few weeks but came back again. I then applied a generous amount of silicone dielectric grease to every connection I possibly could on the spark plug wires/boots and coils. Worked great for a few weeks until I washed my engine at the car wash. The misfire under boost was intermittent and random up to that point, then it was anytime while boosting and even under slight vacuum. Turns out, the more pressure in a given cylinder, the harder it is for a spark to jump from the electrode to the ground on the plug. The misfire returning told me that the coils were on their last leg and giving a really weak spark. Replaced all 3 with some cheapy ones on Amazon for $40 after shipping and my truck runs amazing once again!
Just wanted to share that with you guys in case one of you starts to have a weird studder under boost, as higher cylinder pressure (aka boost) requires a really hot spark to ignite the plug. And FYI don't skimp on the dielectric grease. That's probably why water got in there and ruined the coils.
Hopefully this saves someone a few hours of Google troubleshooting

 

Finally did your copyrighted mod (inner fender turn signal). I really like em'. Put two in the front fender. Took me like 6 months. Great idea Gio! : )

 

good stuff!

 

Clever on the boost tap to get the extra PSI. What happens at 6psi? Too lean? Are you running a colder thermostat?

I'm internally gated, so I can adjust boost a bit. We'll see where the safe zone stops.

I made some more progress:





Terrible pic.

And I started a thread over on TundraTalk so that I don't hijack Gio's: http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tu...-toyota-tundra-turbo-project.html#post6987649

 

You lucky SOB... look at all that room lol! Looks great man! Just make sure you clock that turbo to drain the oil as vertical as possible. Can't wait to see how you fab up the downpipe and the rest of the exhaust.

 

Uhh, is that your stock manifold?

 

Yep. Don't mind the ugly tack welds- just positioning things for now. I'll remove and weld the whole thing properly for the real install.

I'll modify the x-over pipe to feed the driver's side bank into the back of the passenger's side bank, and run the wastegate discharge/downpipe into the stock exhaust at the 3-hole flange.

The turbocharger will also be supported by a brace connecting the engine mount bracket to the T3 turbine inlet flange so the manifold isn't taking all the weight.

Oil return is a -12AN, with a near vertical shot to the pan. Combined with a catch can on the PCV, I should have relatively oil free intake piping.