96 5vz xcab 4x4 TACO TURBO BUILD

It intercepts the O2 sensor readings and feeds modified data to the ECU. It essentially tells the ECU that its running lean. The ECU compensates with fuel until it sees 14.7 in the modified sensor readings. The ECU stays happy because its conditions are met- it won't be trying to lean out like in a 7th injector situation. The amount of fuel added, and the boost pressure that the enrichment becomes active are adjustable. It only modifies the sensor readings when boost is above the set point. The rest of the time it passes the O2 signals to the ECU unmodified.

 

Gio, how often do you change your oil and plugs with boost? Running synthetic, got 6k miles on her so far, still going strong.

 

Mobile 1 full synthetic every 5-6k miles and stocker dual ground nkg plugs once a year (idk how many miles).
Hey josh, where did you get your methanol kit from?

 

Devils own. Was around $300 I think, but liked it because the pumps diaphragms are designed to handle meth plus it's a higher psi rating. Has adjustable controller too with a level monitor so you don't run out and boost.

 

Exactly what I was looking for... thanks dude.

 

If you watch your afr you will see it is injecting and can monitor this way, but I got a failsafe too as it monitors the actual flow of fluid right by the nozzle. Some kits come with a failsafe, think aem does maybe?

 

Yeah I'm kinda buggin, because I don't want all the fancy stuff like failsafes and the meth injection name brand reservoir. Like you said, the wideband is the failsafe and I can get a universal window washer tank/reservoir for under 20 bucks on eBay. The MAP sensor/controller, nozzle and pump is a must though.

 

I've used Aquamist systems on cars before. They're good, but they've gotten pretty expensive. There seem to be a lot of guys having DIY success with the Shurflo pump and McMaster-Carr nozzles.

This guy has a good writeup and parts list: http://www.turbomirage.com/water.html

Gio I know you're already intercooled, but if anyone else is reading and considering intercooling or H2O/meth, this was eye opening:

http://blog.perrinperformance.com/your-sti-doesnt-need-an-intercooler-right/

I just ordered an intercooler and some miscellaneous piping to start fitting it up. This turbo thing is a slippery slope. Exhaust is next, but I'm already eyeing up some wheel/tire and suspension upgrades. Burnin' cash!

 

Yeah man, intercoolers are the shizzle. My air intake temps are lower now than the were when the truck was NA with just a cold air intake. My temps were 40+ degrees above atmosphere and they are now always less than 40.

 

Any thoughts on a smoking turbo and oil collecting around my valve covers? I think my pcv may be not working and needs removed to just let crank breathe into catch can

 

Turbo can be leaking oil too. If the feed and drain are not 100% up and down, when you shut down, oil can pool in the turbo and leak into the intake.

To test the PCV, just remove it and shake it lightly. You should hear a rattling. If not, its probably gunked up and a little carb cleaner sprayed into both ends generally will clear it up.

 

Hey buddy, happy friday. Yeah, I'm gonna pull the pcv completely and inspect the turbo. Hasn't done this for 6k miles?

 

I welded up a new bumper. Believe it or not I'm not done with the lights

 

Did you change color on your truck?

 

Na, still grey. I did Herculine a few things though

 

thought it used to be blue

 

Checkin in to the turbo hotel lol...
Ordered Manifolds, crossover, downpipe, weld on 10AN bung, turbo, two 2.75" to 2.5" silicone adapters, intercooler and intercooler piping kit today...

all from CXracing of course...

I also ordered various fittings and such from ebay.

 

nice!!

 

Haha yup. The bulk of what I ordered should come in saturday. Then after that its just one more order of parts and BAM boost lol

 

Don't use their V-band clamps. I used Vibrant clamps from Amazon.

Don't use the metal "gaskets." Buy some stove top gasket maker for your turbo gaskets and/or high temp Cu RTV for the waste gate.

Don't reuse your stock header gaskets, get new OEM ones. If you have cash burning a hole in your pocket, take the headers to a shop and machine them flat.

Don't use the oil drain kit they send you. Mine dry rotted. Get something quality (I actually used an 8 AN kit I put together as it fit a little better).

Don't use the oil filter sandwich plate they send you. Tap your oil feed directly into the block. IIRC you will need a 3/8" Male NTP to 1/8" female NTP adapter to do this. There is a hex nut above your oil sensor where you tap into the block. To reach it easier, release your alternator belt tension, remove the belt, and swing the alternator up and out of the way (a second pair of hands really helps here).

If you have the ignition module mounted on your passenger wheel well, you either have to move it and remount it somewhere else, or splice and extend the wire harness to rout away from your exhaust down pipe. Take this time to re-rout your MAF wire harness as well.

I would recommend you buy a new oil pan and weld your oil return bung in its so when you do the install, its a quick oil pan swap. There's a lot of crap under there so make sure you measure your bung placement very carefully. Try to get it as high up as you can, it should at least be above your oil line.

A second pair of hands goes a long way. And before you start tearing into the truck, preplan EVERYTHING. Unless you A: have a daily driver, or B: are experienced and know for certain you can do this in one day/weekend, I would be very careful how you go about doing this. Its a lot harder than it looks.

Good luck and don't re-learn everyone else's mistakes. A lot of people on here that have done this install so don't hesitate to ask!