97 4Runner Crawler

Agreed. I'm surprised I haven't broken one on 37s but I'm just more hesitant to put the passenger front in a bind or undercut, the other tires I really don't worry about.

Maybe the new oem intermediate shaft is a bit stronger that the 20 year old used ones? I know the female splines do not like to let go of the CV on that side.

 

Well that’s a new one…

Beating on it hard, passenger side hopped up a ledge and when it fell and grabbed traction the driver rcv broke off in the diff.

Suprised it broke the rcv instead of eating gears

 

Another testamate to the strength of the 7.5

 

I remember reading another post when looking up RCV issues that the inner part is as weak as factory - cannot verify that or not. I was more concerned about CV boots busting that led me to be searching about RCV stuf, so not well informed about the inner shaft vs. factory. Have seen the factory break in that manner.

 

Yea… I broke 3 forms of intermediate shafts on passenger side, I figure the rcv would have gone one of those times if it were a toss up on their strength, they are both the same 27 spline

No intermediate shaft to be a fuse in the driver side, and apparently the rcv isn’t as strong as the gears

 

Meaning automatic and manual intermediate shafts would break before the CV on the pass side and now the inner shaft on the RCV break before anything else?

 

Yea passenger side broke 1 add stub and 2 manual hub subs.

This is the first break on driver side… front was locked when it broke so I guess the stub is the weak point if that tire gets too much traction

Video of break
https://youtube.com/shorts/hiT-XLSkhFE?feature=share

 

Redoing steering while it is down

Quoting out some aluminum rack bushings. Pulled apart 2 old racks to rebuild and reseal one, probably drilling out divider and generally trying to get friction down as much as possible.

Plan on drilling out the control valve, kind of funky that one rebuilt napa rack has different porting than the OEM rack (4x ports instead of 2x) I'm going to drill them all out a touch in addition to porting the ps pump restrictor to see if I can get some more flow. Would be nice to bump up pressure but idk if OEM pumps have shims to adjust pressure like the parts store pumps. Could probably get 25% more power out of it with just more pressure. Might just get a trailgear pump but I'm annoyed they raised the price and I have a few good factory pumps sitting around.

Then just need to finally limit the DE ram and paint everything.

Front shocks are also out, opening bleed back up and going to rate plates

and some references for myself

FSM PS Pump
TG Pump # 130612-KIT
steering gear FSM
oem PS rack seal kit # 0444535160
PS Pump Pressure / Flow Increase
Good PS rack guide # 45504-35031
PS rack Rebuild guide

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-increase-power-steering-pressure.687941/

 

I have to pull apart an OEM pump, but it looks like their flow control valve is different, I don't think you can disassemble it like the aftermarket pumps?
https://charm.li/Toyota/2004/Tacoma.../Service and Repair/Disassembly and Assembly/

Ordered a seal kit and slider to rebuild a rack and start fresh, as well as some aluminum rack bushings to solid mount the rack on the driver side. Going to keep a rubber or poly bushing on the passenger side and hope the other two mounts will stiffen it up enough.

 

Drilled out rack divider piston and going to pack the rack with grease… it was a pain in the ass but hopefully it’s good enough, have a few 3/16 holes. Tried not to scuff the rod too bad and clean up the piston afterward. Cleaned up where the rod rides on the slider with some sandpaper and tried to punish it as best I could as well.


Used the Napa control valve and drilled out all high pressure ports to 7/64 from 3/32 to open them up a bit… wish I didn’t in hindsight because it has so many more ports already compared to the oem valve.

Napa left vs oem right.

rotated 90 deg to show port counts

O ring spec, incase I forget


Tore open 2 oem pumps and both of the flow bypass valves were sealed, so no luck on increasing bypass pressure by removing shims. They do however have letters on them D and C in this case which must correspond to different bypass pressure… they make A to F but I have no idea which are higher bypass pressure. for now I put C in my pump going in. I did drill out the pressure port orifice to 5/32 from ~7/64. If it is too much then I have spares.